The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I am replacing the key switch and all my guages.
The replacement starter I got from Bareco is a conversion kit and must have a key switch to work.

When I pulled out the key switch box I noticed some sort of small box mounted in the bottom pictured below....
http://www.pbase.com/wrightsphoto/image/107935713

Is this the voltage regulator?

Part 2 question:
If it is the voltage regulator, since I am replacing the old generator with a new alternator can I do away with this?
The new Alternator I bought has a built in voltage regulator.

Thanks for any advice!
Larry

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Yes it is and no you do not need it if you are fitting an alternator with a built in regulator.

Brian wrote:Yes it is and no you do not need it if you are fitting an alternator with a built in regulator.

Thanks so much Brian!

I wonder how much of the original wiring harness I can do away with?

Hi Larry,

Your wiring should consist of only a few wires, two going to the alternator, one for the main power and the other for the charge light. The charge light is essential as the alternator will not start charging without it. The starter will need the main power cable and the wire going to the starter switch and maybe a couple of other wires for any warning lights that you may have and thats it. Basically the whole lot can go, but I would not throw it away. Original wiring for these old machines is getting hard to find and you never know when you might want to put it all back to original.

Regards, Frank.

Hey Frank,

Thanks for the reply...
My new alternator is only a one wire hook up. I plan on running it through the amp guage and then to the battery.
Maybe I can post some photos when I get more done on it.
I got my front rim back from the sand blaster today, so more progress made each day. It's a slow process though.

Thanks,
Larry

Aussie Frank wrote:Hi Larry,

Your wiring should consist of only a few wires, two going to the alternator, one for the main power and the other for the charge light. The charge light is essential as the alternator will not start charging without it. The starter will need the main power cable and the wire going to the starter switch and maybe a couple of other wires for any warning lights that you may have and thats it. Basically the whole lot can go, but I would not throw it away. Original wiring for these old machines is getting hard to find and you never know when you might want to put it all back to original.

Regards, Frank.

Hello Laryy,

When you have a one wire alternator, then the easiest is to install it and turn the battery backwards in and isolate the original loom terminals who usually go to the dynamo.
Just fit one new wire from the alternator to the starter motor and you are ready.

Then you have the most little changes as possible to the originallity of your tractor.

Best regards

(Hopefully the size isn't too large on this image)

Larry, here is a general wiring diagram for an internal regulated alternator....this one happens to be a Delco ..but most are similar.
(it's labeled 'generator in the pic, but it's an alternator)

Terminal labeled 1 in the diagram is the field coil and is usually wired to the charge light....and sometimes needs a resistor in parallel to get the alternator to charge at low rpm. (radio shack carries some resistors that work fine ..10 ohm 10 amp ceramics)

Terminal labeled 2 is the voltage sensing feature...on a 'one wire'
hookup it would be jumpered to the output lug (BAT) on the alternator.

Hey,

This diagram is great!! Thanks so much for posting it!!
I hope to work on it today. I was going to use a amp guage instead of a charging light, I guess it would work the same.

Thanks so much!
Larry

commander wrote:(Hopefully the size isn't too large on this image)

Larry, here is a general wiring diagram for an internal regulated alternator....this one happens to be a Delco ..but most are similar.
(it's labeled 'generator in the pic, but it's an alternator)

Terminal labeled 1 in the diagram is the field coil and is usually wired to the charge light....and sometimes needs a resistor in parallel to get the alternator to charge at low rpm. (radio shack carries some resistors that work fine ..10 ohm 10 amp ceramics)

Terminal labeled 2 is the voltage sensing feature...on a 'one wire'
hookup it would be jumpered to the output lug (BAT) on the alternator.

lwright wrote:Hey,

I was going to use a amp guage instead of a charging light, I guess it would work the same.

Larry, an ampere meter (guage) would need to go in the output line from the alternator to the battery to function properly.

Alternator setups these days typically don't use a guage, though I think it will work fine if wired in properly. Alternators do need the field coil energized from the battery to start charging. (they will 'self energize' once they get going, but they need that 'kick' from the battery to get 'em started) .
The idiot light (indicator light) serves two purposes....one is a bit of resistance in the circuit, the other is more apparent....a visual indicator that the alternator is charging properly.. or not. The wire to the field coil should be switched....else you will drain the battery when the tractor isn't running. If you don't wire in a light , you will almost certainly need to add a resistor to get some resistance in the circuit. You may have to regardless... many cars use a 'resistance wire' for this purpose.

The voltage sensing feature isn't found on some alternators, especially some of the older ones or those made for certain ag or construction equipment.. It's been common on cars for a long time....it's purpose is to adjust the alternator output voltage to compensate for voltage drop in the wiring.......in other words, to make sure you get proper voltage (approx 14) at the battery terminal or main junction in the wiring harness...this may require the alternator to produce 15 , 16 volts or higher at the output lug.

You can get by ok without this on most tractors....they typically don't have many lights or other load on the electrics........if you add a bunch of work lights, an electric sprayer, or some other big electrical load, you'll find it a very handy thing to have.

If you get stuck, give me a holler...I can find some time to come up and give you a hand .....

Thanks for the great info!
The alternator I bought is only a one wire hook up so it's not like the one pictured above in the diagram.
I am working on sandblasting, pressure washing and degreasing the tractor so I can get it ready to paint.
The chemicals used to strip the paint and grease would eat up the wiring, so I'm getting all this done first before I start to wire it up.
Thanks for all the help and I might take ya up on the help when I'm ready to do it.
Maybe I could buy your gas and lunch for driving up.
Hopefully in a couple weeks, I'll be ready!
I'll post a photo of the alternator sometime today.

Larry

commander wrote:Larry, an ampere meter (guage) would need to go in the output line from the alternator to the battery to function properly.

Alternator setups these days typically don't use a guage, though I think it will work fine if wired in properly. Alternators do need the field coil energized from the battery to start charging. (they will 'self energize' once they get going, but they need that 'kick' from the battery to get 'em started) .
The idiot light (indicator light) serves two purposes....one is a bit of resistance in the circuit, the other is more apparent....a visual indicator that the alternator is charging properly.. or not. The wire to the field coil should be switched....else you will drain the battery when the tractor isn't running. If you don't wire in a light , you will almost certainly need to add a resistor to get some resistance in the circuit. You may have to regardless... many cars use a 'resistance wire' for this purpose.

The voltage sensing feature isn't found on some alternators, especially some of the older ones or those made for certain ag or construction equipment.. It's been common on cars for a long time....it's purpose is to adjust the alternator output voltage to compensate for voltage drop in the wiring.......in other words, to make sure you get proper voltage (approx 14) at the battery terminal or main junction in the wiring harness...this may require the alternator to produce 15 , 16 volts or higher at the output lug.

You can get by ok without this on most tractors....they typically don't have many lights or other load on the electrics........if you add a bunch of work lights, an electric sprayer, or some other big electrical load, you'll find it a very handy thing to have.

If you get stuck, give me a holler...I can find some time to come up and give you a hand .....

Here are a few pics of the Alternator I bought and starter.

http://www.pbase.com/wrightsphoto/fordson&page=3

http://www.pbase.com/wrightsphoto/fordson&page=4

Actually, it appears you may have the type alternator I was describing....That black plastic (rectangular) plug on the alternator is put there to protect the terminals for the field coil and voltage sensing connection....the numbers '1' and '2' cast into the case beside the plug tend to confirm it .....

Those delco type alternators are ubiquitous on this side of the pond....GM used them on just about every car they made for years.

I'm always up for a 'free' lunch ':lol:'

commander wrote:Actually, it appears you may have the type alternator I was describing....That black plastic (rectangular) plug on the alternator is put there to protect the terminals for the field coil and voltage sensing connection....the numbers '1' and '2' cast into the case beside the plug tend to confirm it .....

Those delco type alternators are ubiquitous on this side of the pond....GM used them on just about every car they made for years.

I'm always up for a 'free' lunch ':lol:'

Thanks Jack
I will hurry up and get my butt in gear and get busy painting...