The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

How's everyone going on here, I've been using my rebuilt FMD, and after a few hard days it started to leak oil out the hub at the rear. So as usual I checked out this forum before commencing
the job. I've the half shaft out and new seals and bearings ready to fit,but the cup/ seat of the bearing could not be removed from its position . So I'm going to pass on a simple tip that a local mechanic told me which worked a dream. Clean all oil up around the area . Pack a wet cloth in to the trumpet , then weld all around the inside of the bearing cup /seat , I use the term weld lightly as in should say spatter burn stick rods and flash my eyes but.But to my utter delight the bearing seat just simply fell out due to the heat created by the welder. I had spent 3 hours the previous night trying to cut the bearing cup/seat hammering, leaviring swearing etc. I just thought it was worth a mention for all of us Fordson boys.
Paudie

Thanks Paudie.

Wish I had this advice a couple of weeks ago. I was at the same place you were and finally resorted to a hand propane torch and literally building a jig for my a puller.

Fairly standard practice for both bearing outer races and boiler tubes Paudie, did your contact have an equivalent tip for the inner race stuck on a shaft ? I often resort to a cutting disk, hammer and cold chisel if heat & pullers don't work

You all seem to be making hard work of removing the bearing cups, Ford had it all worked out for you.

Just feel around the back of the cup and you will find two notches in the inner housing where the cup seats, using a long punch in those notches onto the back of the cup, drive it out from the inside.

We did not have welders or angle grinders back in the stone age!!!!

Well Brian, I don't think it would be possible to tap the back of the bearing cup while its in the trumpet as you would have no swinging power on the old hammer. And god knows I needed swiniging room lol.
Paudie

Oehrick, I'm sure if you welded the bearing cup which was stuck on the shaft it would work a treat , it's kinda an alternative to gas, as a lot of us wouldn't have access to that, when I've this side refitted I'll have to do the other wheel bearing and seals as I'm sure it's in as poor a condition as the ones I've just removed.so I'm kinda looking forward to trying out my new trick lol.
Paudie

Thanks useful pointer to try and remember if I ever have to do the bearings on mine Brian - and while you didn't have angle grinders back then, the full service tools kit (hopefully) being available was a bit better than knocking stuff out with a big flint and a deer antler I've been struggling with the Swedish Brick for a few days, ended up at the fuel pumps relay only to find a bodger had been there before and put in a wire (from a bit of twin & earth ) as a shunt in the socket, one side stayed put so only a 1:5 chance to get the other end right - running again now (having resoldered the relay PCB) but still trying to figure out why the shunt................

Paudie, I was talking about grinding and splitting for getting inner races of shafts, not the outer race from housings I'm told a heavy mig is quicker than stick welding and to stop the sparks and slag getting in the gearbox scrumpled up aluminium (sorry aluminum) foil squashed into the back can be handy I tend to save ali for remelting anyway and the heavy gauge stuff used for meat pies or chinese takeaways has a multitude of uses - your dumpsters may have alternative sources.....