57 major

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markr1001
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Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada

57 major

Post by markr1001 »

Well as some of you know i just redid the pistons sleeves and orings. So ichecked the oil on saturday while messing aroundwith the leveling device for the 3point hitch. Well i had coolant in my oil. So this morning i dropped the pan. This is what i found....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10sYZ4p ... p=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d3qwSe ... p=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sx1PdX ... p=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SiMyHB ... p=drivesdk

Has anyone had any luck brazing this type of repair? It looks like its in the oring groove

Dandy Dave
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Re: 57 major

Post by Dandy Dave »

When I put wet sleeves in a block I often use a silicone gasket maker to help the sleeves slide in and also take care of any small imperfections in the sealing areas. When it is like grease right out of the tube it helps from tearing the O-rings. When it sets, it is still pliable and would have sealed the small leak you have. Dandy Dave!
Have a Fordsonful day Folks!

1960 Fordson Power Major

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: 57 major

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Like the belt and braces (suspenders ?) approach, Dave. I used the same approach when refitting the PTO selector housing below the gearbox.
Mark, sorry to have to say it, but you are going to have to go back in. Could you provide some clear images of the cleaned block in the area of the seal recesses? We can then assess the situation.
Best, Adrian.

Image

markr1001
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Re: 57 major

Post by markr1001 »

Well i ended up buying devcon and putting it on. I know i should have pulled the liners and put it in the oring grooves and then put it all back togetherbut i just put it on the outside for now. It apears as thougb it has stopped leaki g. I had it hold pressure for a few hours i have it all back together now and am now trying to solve to issue of not fully firing. # 1 seems the worst and 3 and 4 are not as much bettwr. I am goibg to swap #2 injector arou d to see if it cures the smoke. Also will be doing a compression test once i make a tester that will work with the high pressures

Pavel
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Re: 57 major

Post by Pavel »

Oh Dave! I am saddened by comparing the pristine condition of your block deck with that of the interior. By investing in the molasses bath treatment the inner could have been returned to its original un-rusted condition -- with an inhibitor and distilled water maintaining that condition [or regular use of anti-freeze].

http://historicalcycleclub.com.au/news/ ... experience

Pavel

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: 57 major

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

Interested by your comment, Pavel. The inside of the block as shown is how it was when I revealed it for the first time after forty-nine years. Rusted but no loose flakes. It didn't occur to me to remove the rust down to bare metal. Cast develops a jacket of rust that, though to some extent permeable, helps to seal the surface. Engine after rebuild running with strong dilution of ethylene glycol and soft water from the butt.
Best, Adrian.

oehrick
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Re: 57 major

Post by oehrick »

[quote="AdrianNPMajor" and soft water from the butt.
Best, Adrian.[/quote]

@Adrian, given the variances in language here :needpics: :clap: :clap:

@Pavel do you know what in the molasses cleans the rust off ? (while Adrian & I are in the midst of sugar beet country here the processing does not result in this as a by product)
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

AdrianNPMajor
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Re: 57 major

Post by AdrianNPMajor »

See what you mean, Rick! Another case of "Language, Timothy!".
I'm keen to hear more of Pavel's molasses treatment, too.
Best, Adrian.

RH
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Re: 57 major

Post by RH »

Molasses does eat the rust for some reason but is slow, for faster work, normal white vinegar works,
(I use it in old Very bad gun barrels and on tools I find in the fields rusted up and such like!)
I wouldn't use it in an engine block though, as it will eat out all the rust, and this will leave behind empty pits that may cause leaks.
For tools like shifters and such that are frozen up into a solid block of rust, it will free them off and clean them up in a few days to a week.

oehrick
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Re: 57 major

Post by oehrick »

Have you tried electrolytic Richard ? a little washing soda and hook the rusty item up to a battery charger - have been experimenting with it and had some good results, effective but not too aggressive.
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

RH
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Re: 57 major

Post by RH »

Rick,

I've thunk about trying it, but that's as far as it goes up to now!

The vinegar won't rust or eat iron or steel, but the object will rust afterwards if not washed off and oiled.
Yes, I will try it sometime ,...when I get one of those round tuits!

Can you tell me if the Lamb and Flag is still in operation at Welney? (Not Exactly your area, but closer than me!)

Chers, R. :beer:

oehrick
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Re: 57 major

Post by oehrick »

As much salt as you can get to dissolve in vinegar and then a bit is also pretty good.

While further from Welney Richard, you are as close to Gooble as I am from http://lambandflagwelney.co.uk/ it appears they are still pulling pints (although the wash road is closed with monotonous regularity due to flooding) :)
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

fenhayman
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Re: 57 major

Post by fenhayman »

Lamb and Flag still serving Elgoods beers from Wisbech and some of the best food in the area.

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