1957 major injection pump timing

[markr1001]

So i noticed the other day that my drive for my injection pump had some slop in it.(about 1/16). So i ordered a new one. I was going to changw it today and my i&t manual says i need 19 btdc for my 1429721 serial number. Then in the side notes it talks about head gasket thickness. I did a head gasket and full engine rebuild last summer on it with the agriline kit. Does anyone know what thickness the gasket would have been the thick or thin? Also i cranked it over till the line on the pump lines up and it shows that its floating between 18 and 23 btdc and the 2 numbers in the book are 19 and 23. So definatly a big range andim not sure which one is proper.


It has always been a little tempermental to start. Even in warmer temps i needed the excess fuel button pushed and it its anywhere near 0 degrees celcius it needs to be plugged in. Not sure if that would be a sign that it is a bit out of time. I plan on pulling the injection pump when i do this and change the diaphram and also there is a bushing that is alowing the stop rod to have alot of play so i was going to replace that if i can get to it. Any advice on that work?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A5gpNj ... p=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10n_IWm ... p=drivesdk

[oehrick]

Just put in a new head gasket, decoke and valve grind Mark and mine is still no better starting cold, I'm working on the regulator and ignition / light switch at present and will have a closer look at the pump timing before sending the injectors & pump off for a service, I found a new throttle diaphragm seems to have reduced revs and there is also the question of the fuel boost screw behind the kill lever assy and what if any influence it has on starting - I'll be keeping an eye on your progress

BTW your photos are not visible without our selling our souls to Google.............

[markr1001]

Ive rewired my tractor and i run a gm alternator with internal regulator.. my local tractor shop tested my injectors last fall and said there good. I am also going to replace tbe diaphram aswell. And i am in the process of rebuilding the shutoff leaver as the rod is wore to a half circle.

I will see if i can change photo settings so u dont need google

[oehrick]

OK Mark, I stripped a pair of regulators and have made (hopefully) one good one out of two, the one off the tractor had the moving point completely eroded away and a fair sized cavity in the L shaped armature.

The temptation of an alternator is high but having made the decision to keep original I'll live with lower charge rate at higher engine revs. Other than the odd crispy bit of insulation I've kept the original loom, must admit to being tempted to add a couple of fuses in the control box against a cook-up....................

[markr1001]

My wiring was completely toasted. And hacked to peices. My major is not origonal. It is fited with a loader and i built power steering for it to make it possible to steer. So an alternator didnt bother me.

[henk]

I think it will be 23 degrees origional with copper asbestos gasket.
DON'T USE 19 degrees. It was for the steel gasket and was only in use for a few months.