The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

My pedal shafts are leaking, and someone asked was the rear axle overfilled. It was almost 2 gallons overfilled.
I pumped the fluid in the rear axle down to the correct level on the dipstick, hoping to alleviate some of the leaking, while the tractor is sitting between uses.
I have really only used the tractor hard, for than a few hours, maybe a couple times since I have had it. Mostly small stuff, so adding a bit of fluid here and there to the transmission didn't seem like a big deal.
I decided to change the transmission/gearbox oil to sae 90w gear oil, to try to slow any leak.
Well I found my leak !
All my transmission fluid is spilling over into the rear axle, but then it is leaking out my pedal shafts. The transmission fluid level will drop until it levels itself with the rear axle level.
The major problem is this leaves my transmission level, about half low, and rear axle level about 2 gallons high, and the pedals dripping fluid all night and day.
I am scared to run the transmission low, which leads me to ask, how low is too low ?
How do I fix it, or do I drive towards the pond and bail off, and make a fishing reef out of it ?

Hose on the tipper pipe gets it back into the gearbox from the transmission easily.

You have discovered the 'Niagara' seal between gearbox and transmission has failed.

You know when it is really overfilled as the oil comes out of the hub seals ans widdles all over the inside of the back wheel hubs

I think you have probably already worked out the cure it involves two halves of a Major

I've not heard of a gearbox seizing, they were designed for farmers and hard work, over engineered by current standards and hard to kill, I suspect you would notice excess heat before serious damage occurred, never understood why they didn't fit a gearbox dipstick, probably to keep the dirt out.

Fishing on the Super-Reef

Can you explain how to build a hose from the tipper pipe back to the gear box, please ?
I can't visualize how to build what you mentioned, but that would be great, if there is a way to send it back to the gear box. Thanks for the further explanation.
Super reef may be its new nickname ..lol

First you ideally need a trailer connector, or if not, break one of the screwed joints before the tractor bit of the connector and stick a bit of garden or other hose over the pipe end long enough to reach the gearbox filler. then at low revs carefully raise the hydraulic lift quadrant and oil will move at relatively low flow and pressure (don't just yank the lever up at full revs, chances are the hose will shoot out of the filler) until you have enough.

Mine not being a Super I usually undo the nut where the tipper pipe goes into the valve block, only need a couple of feet of hose then.

Does that give you enough info to get going ?

I'm still keeping an eye out for a cheap Burco boiler (tea urn type) so I can turn my transmission yoghurt back into water free oil...........

EDIT
Just realised you were probably thinking this was a permanent oil transfer back arrangement, probably have to put a quick release couple into the gearbox filler plug to make it semi permanent, you'd need to disconnect the hose when using the hydraulics for any other reason, I think both of us need to split our beasts and put in a new Niagara seal !!

I do understand what you are trying to say now.
Thank you very much for explaining in detail.
I was at first thinking that it was a permanent duct tape type repair, that would cause the oil to flow back to the gear box.
I have a small, manual transfer pump that I can use, but I like your idea of quick connects on one end, and pump it back to the gearbox as needed.
I will try this for a while vs breaking the tractor as it will need a clutch soon enough, so I figure I will torture myself enough then to go ahead and tackle the clutch, gearbox seal, and brake seals. I am putting it off, as long as possible !

You could aways start with the pto seal.
50% chance on result.
You need to
1 drain all the oil
2 take out the pto shaft
3 drop the pto box
4 change the seal

While you are there, you can change the pto seal at the back, and the pto shifter seal.

My hydraulic top doesn't look like yours. Mine is a 62 super major, but I do have a remote hydraulic block added to the top of mine. If I were to get a male quick connect to fit one of the female quick connects, and connect them along with a piece of hose, so i could put fluid back into the gear box. Would that work at starter speed, or would it take too long to pump 2 gallons ? I would imagine at engine idle speed the hydraulic psi would be really high, or would a valve similiar to the one you have plumbed in, allow the flow to be low enough that I could make that idea work ?
I do have a port on the right side of the tractor, I believe is for a tipping pipe, that I could plumb, almost the exact same as you have pictured though.
Mathias 1, I filled the gearbox to full, and suctioned out the rear differential to the correct level, according to the dipstick. I never started the tractor. 4 days later, the gear box is half empty and the rear differential is over full. Would the pto seal possibly cause this ? I wouldn't mind doing the pto seal, but waiting to split the tractor as long as I can, because I will have soo much work, when I do. Clutch, brake seals, gearbox seals, etc.
Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.

Hi,

Don't worry, it will work on starter speed. The pressure isn't that high. I could easily fill a 25l container. Did it that way when I needed to change the oil.

There are 2 seals which can cause the niagara fall: the upper output shaft of the gearbox and the lower seal on the pto shaft.
For the upper you need to split the tractor between rear end and gearbox. the Pto seal you can change without splitting the tractor. In both cases you need to drain all the oil of course.

Thank you very much for the reply and information.
You gentleman have been invaluable instructors to me on this fordson tractor !

Henk. What type of metal did you use to make that valve you have pictured ? Brass, or hydraulic specific fittings ?
I have been looking around the hardware store, and I guess the next place to look is a hydraulic supply store.
I can't seem to find any fitting or valves that can handle the pressure of staying connected like yours at all times, and being opened as needed. I assume the fittings need to be rated for 2500-3000 psi ?
That is how I want to design mine, where I can leave it permanently mounted, but open and close the valve as needed.

This setup has been changed by a normal hydraulic coupling. The one in the picture was one I have found somewhere. It was not useble for hydraulic hozes for on a loader or tipping lorry.
The valve is nothing special. If I have to pump the oil from the rear into the gearbox or container, I run the engine on idle, so the pressure is not that high and when I don't need it I disconnect the valve with the hoze.

So you have redesigned it, since the picture, and use a quick connect male and female couplings now ?
After you used the valve, you would remove the valve, and re install the original port plug into that port ?
Just making sure I understand what you meant.
If so, I may change gears, and just go with the quick connect coupling idea and use the auxiliary hydraulic controls for lifting and lowering implements I already have mounted.
Just make a hose onto a male end and that will be my hose, and use the up and down valve as my on and off valve.
What do you think of that idea ?

You understand just what I did and your idea will work fine.