Don't recall seeing that thread but I'd be very wary putting sand or emery paper down a bore regardless of how it is supported and driven, well bonded wet and dry paper perhaps but those 2 & 3 legged honing stone jobs are safer, even so I always oil above the rings and grease above that to block entry then remove the fine abrasive which inevitably ends up down there. My 2 cents on the matter others may have different methods or views and it isn't exactly a high performance Porsche engine I suppose.
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure
1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes
OK Svend, sorry, still don't remember the thread but a lot of people de glaze with pistons still in situ, so easy to seize the engine on first start up if the waste gets down past the piston crown
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure
1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes
I know this isn't the question you're asking, but the easiest way to de-glaze the bores, is to put a big plough behind it and work it like a rented mule!
Its hard to say exactly how long it will take. You need to get the coolant up to operating temperature and work it hard for a few hours. You have to give it hard work periodically or it will start burning oil again. It's possible that yours needs rings, or an overhaul.
Many, many times SvendH, since the late 1950s from a Ford 8 to a number of Alfa Romeos that I've owned. In my earlier days I could not afford spending good money on tools that were needed only once every couple of years. And yes; it works. It's on a par with buying a rarely used clutch alignment tool when improvising with a tool set socket and insulating tape does the job just as well.
Pavel