Newbie

This forum is for the Fordson New Major, including the Super Major and the Power Major.
leeroy
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Re: Newbie

Post by leeroy »

Great looking tractor there Kevin, congratulations!
1939 Ford 9N, 1952 8N, 1955 FMD, IH 340U, Ford 3600, Ford 2120, Valmet 646 Forwarder.

Billy26F5
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Re: Newbie

Post by Billy26F5 »

Nice Major. Give him a good clean and enjoy yourself. You have a few much later bits, but don't be too bothered about that. It's a November 54 one, you should have the solid filler for the radiator, the front weights are Super Major ones, if you do need weights you might want to look for Major ones (which are flatter), you should only need them for very heavy implements (like a TS-83 reversible 3 furrow plough), the Major front end is very heavy, particularly with cast front wheels (what you have).
Sandy
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Emiel
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Re: Newbie

Post by Emiel »

Very nice tractor. Enjoy it.
Best regards

Emiel

N 1937, E27N 1948, 8N 1949, E27N 1950, E1A Diesel 1953, E1ADKN PP 1956, Dexta 1959, NH Clayson M103 1964

KevinB
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Re: Newbie

Post by KevinB »

Hi guys,

I'm after your help again already.

Took out 492 XUH yesterday just to get familiarized with it after a couple of days of ownership.

Just went a couple of miles down the road visiting, all fine, running lovely.
Just coming slowly down the roughish track back to the house and the engine revs started to go up even though the throttle lever was on tickover, started to run rough and loads of white exhaust smoke.
Killed the engine and coasted to the house. An hour later started okay to put it back in the shed but same symptoms.

Could anyone advise me where to start looking please?

Also for fuel shut of tap, I'm guessing fully clockwise is off and fully counter clockwise is on. Can get about 2 full turns.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

John b
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Re: Newbie

Post by John b »

Hi Kevin
don't panic, first thing to try is undo the 2 vacuum pipes on the front of the pump that run to the inlet manifold. Unscrew them from the pump end and put your fingers over the 2 holes in the pump (with the engine off). Now move the stop lever on the pump backwards into the stop position then push it forwards again. You should feel a suction on your fingers, if you don't feel anything and you can hear the rack in the pump snap back into place then its probably just the rubber diaphragm has split in the end of the pump. The fuel tap is open fully anti-clockwise
John
My biggest fear is that when i die my wife will sell my tractors for what i told her they cost

Billy26F5
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Re: Newbie

Post by Billy26F5 »

The fuel tap is closed clockwise, the main supply is two turns anticlockwise, and the reserve is full open. Look at the diaphragm as John says, it probably needs replacing, many deteriorate from neglect (no running) and when you ask it to run again it breaks pretty soon. Remember to keep the dirt out of all these bits.
Sandy
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smchris
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Re: Newbie

Post by smchris »

My money is on that diaphragm; you'll have fun getting the housing end off! There are 4 bolts at each corner of the governor casting and the lower one closest to the engine is a swine to get at. Took me an age to get mine off because the spanner will only just fit and you can turn it about 1 flat per application; the space constraints, in my case on my Super, were such that I couldn't get a socket onto it.

Anyway, that symptom, of runaway revs, is definitely a governor issue and almost always the rubber diaphragm perished through.

Before doing any complicated dismantling, try this simple test which will confirm a diaphragm failure: take off the air delivery tube from the air filter to the inlet manifold so you can see the throttle flap; verify it's closed across with the throttle lever in idle position. Locate the upper governor vacuum port which opens into the inlet above that flap. Start the engine. Feel over the vacuum port opening. If your finger is sucked hard against the port and the engine revs drop when you occlude it with a finger pad, there's a hole in the diaphragm.

This works because the diaphragm sits between the connection from above and below the throttle flap. If it's punctured, the incoming air bypasses the obstruction posed by the throttle flap by going through the governor instead!

KevinB
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Re: Newbie

Post by KevinB »

Thanks for the advice, I'm onto it now. Fingers crossed.

Kevin

Billy26F5
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Re: Newbie

Post by Billy26F5 »

If you have a small spanner you can get at the fourth bolt from below (next to the injector pump coupling).
Sandy
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KevinB
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Re: Newbie

Post by KevinB »

It was a fiddle getting the one bolt out but all your suggestions were correct.

There is about a 1" split in the diaphragm, so replacement ordered.

Don't mind problems when they can be remedied fairly easily.

Thank you

Kevin

henk
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Re: Newbie

Post by henk »

Kevin, you have found yourself a very nice but also a complete Major. Hope you will enjoy it a long time. :clap:
Kind regards, Henk

Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I

John b
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Re: Newbie

Post by John b »

While you are at the pump with a spanner, it might be worth taking the side plate off (8 bolts) and using an oil can put a couple of squirts of engine oil on each of the plungers in there. Don't worry about overdoing it as any excess will drain out of the overflow. The pumps are designed to be lubricated by diesel from the pump itself but should be lubed with oil when serviced, it also helps if they don't tend to get used on a regular basis and modern low sulfur diesel gives less lubrication anyway. It certainly won't do the pump any harm
John
My biggest fear is that when i die my wife will sell my tractors for what i told her they cost

Billy26F5
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Re: Newbie

Post by Billy26F5 »

Ensure no dirt can get in if you remove the side plate (clean everything thoroughly first).
Sandy
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smchris
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Re: Newbie

Post by smchris »

KevinB wrote:
Wed Aug 25, 2021 2:01 pm
It was a fiddle getting the one bolt out but all your suggestions were correct.

There is about a 1" split in the diaphragm, so replacement ordered.

Don't mind problems when they can be remedied fairly easily.

Thank you

Kevin
You'll want to adjust the governor spring tension using the screw bolt on the end of the housing when you reassemble. This will give you nice even running at tickover.

Billy26F5
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Re: Newbie

Post by Billy26F5 »

smchris wrote:
Wed Aug 25, 2021 10:57 pm
You'll want to adjust the governor spring tension using the screw bolt on the end of the housing when you reassemble. This will give you nice even running at tickover.
It's a damping valve Chris.

Kevin, be aware that the revs will vary when you adjust it, ensure the rack is still (when idling) before you call the job done. While the governor is open try moving the rack to ensure it moves nicely, and see that the excess fuel button pops out when you move the rack to low delivery (forwards).
Sandy
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KevinB
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Re: Newbie

Post by KevinB »

All fixed. Diaphragm replaced. Runs lovely now. Thanks for your help with this.

Had to put it on the back burner as helping my Brother-in-law with grain carting.

I prefer to use his 2003 TM130 or his 1992 7840SL and 7740SL (both white cab roofs) for carting the grain. I'll leave the shiny red tractors in the shed.

Kevin

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