The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

G'Day to All, I have recently joined your very impressive forum. I have just started to restore a 2/64 (Australian Compliance Plated) Fordson Super Major. It has been parked for about 10 years out in the weather on our small farm, about an hour North of Adelaide, and I am sure there will be challenges along the way when it comes to getting it in operated form again. The tractor was purchased brand new by my wifes' Father and up until about 15 years ago was our main working tractor, but was retired from full time work when we bought another tractor. I am currently spray lubricating all the rusty nuts, bolts and bonnet hinge, hoping I wont break anything when it comes to starting spanner work!!.
P.S the number on the Compliance plate is 3R,2,64 10659 94142, if anyone can help identify it? I also intend to look at the rest of the numbers both stamped and cast in the not too distant future to try and establish a little more of the tractors history.
I look forward to getting involved with the forum.
TrailB

I don't know what the numbers on the Australian plate mean, but if you look for the serial number and casting codes it will tell the age accurately. Hope you can get your Major running without much work.
Sandy

Hi,

Welcome aboard. Looking forward to some pictures.
Rgds

Emiel

Welcome and thank you for introducing yourself.
Picture, pictures, pictures?????????

Welcome to the forum.

Hi All, thanx for the welcome, photobucket wont let me resize my photo, so does the below work??

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ ... &crop=fill

Trail B

That works fine but if you get the right link it will show up on the forum directly.
Nice Major, good loader you have there.
Sandy

G'Day Billy, I did some investigating on the loader, picture of ID plate below

from the plate I would guess that it was fitted in 1979, and built , I think , by Robot Industries for Ford here in Australia, I know the loader has done a lot of work over the years , and hopefully will do a lot more once I get it all up and running
Trail B

Interesting to see that the loader is a later item, I would agree with the thought of it being made in 79, but I don't know if it really is like that.
Sandy

The number stamped on the cylinder block right hand side at the front just above the injection pump and just under the head will tell us more, it should start 08C or 08D looking at the tractor picture.

G'Day to all, I will post numbers once I have it in the shed and can get a better look. In the meantime I have to tow the tractor into the shed to start work on it, I am unsure about seized brakes etc, although the pedals , but brake and clutch pedals feel like they are operating fine. I dont want to start the tractor until I am sure all is good with the engine, fuel system and drivetrain etc.
So I will need to tow it to get it into the shed, I have been told that it is best to tow it backwards, is that the case??, and why?

Thanx again
Trail B

If you tow it backwards you'll find better anchor points for attaching a towing rope or cable (using the drawbar would be ideal), but be careful when you start towing to avoid being too rough.
Sandy

Ok thanx will be gentle
TrailB

G'Day to all, I went to shift the tractor over the weekend, hooked a heavy chain to the drawbar, and started to pull it backwards, but stopped very quickly as the left side rear wheel wasn't turning, the right side was fine. Considering that the foot brake , ratchet and keeper was seized solid in the engaged position when I started working on the project, and there is more travel in the right side foot brake pedal than the left pedal, I suspect that the left brake is seized. Does anyone have any hints as to how to confirm that this is the problem, and any clues as to how to rectify it.
Thanx in advance
TrailB

Hi,

Probably stuck disc brake.

Remove foot plate on left hand, mudguard and wheel of make life easier.

Remove brake housing cover and start cleaning and try to remove brake disc, expander, and disc.

Please be careful, lots of dust probably which isn’t healthy.

Been working on a super back end last weeks. Count the brakes easy to work on.

Rgds emiel

It does indeed sond like a seized LH brake, try dismantling the rachet and loosening the pull rod before you do as Emiel says, although if it's easier for you not to remove the wheel there's still reasonable access. It could just be a tight brake. You might well find the mudguard and footplate bolts shear off.
Sandy

Thank you Emiel and Sandy for your help, I will let you know how I get on.
TrailB

Hi All, I have finally had an opportunity to do some work on the seized L/H brake, after successfully removing the foot plate, I was able to remove the brake cover and the outer brake disc, I then started looking closer at the exploded view in my workshop manual, and it shows a number of steel balls and return springs that are situated between the 2 actuating discs that are further in. If I remove the outer actuating disc will I end up with steel balls and springs falling out?, or will both actuating discs come out together, keeping the balls and springs intact?, and I am guessing I will find the whole lot gummed up with dust etc. your help would be appreciated

Thanx
Trail B

The two expander plates should come out together once the operating rod is removed. If they have rusted into the housing, it may be possible to unhook the retaining springs and remove separately. The balls are large enough that they shouldn’t get lost.

Another thought: with end cover off and operating rod still attached, pressing the pedal will push the outer plate free of any corrosion. It’s all fairly basic stuff.

Old Hywel wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 17, 2023 7:16 am

Another thought: with end cover off and operating rod still attached, pressing the pedal will push the outer plate free of any corrosion. It’s all fairly basic stuff.

That's a good one that I hadn't thought about, but do be careful in case the springs go or it suddenly lets go as you could get a nasty slip off the pedal or cause damage to the actuator. There are 5 balls and 3 springs, you'll need to undo the pull rod nut and remove a pin from the brake linkage to get the actuator off.
Sandy