The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Bearing is bad on original dynamo. The wires were clipped off when we got it. We've just kept battery charged between uses.
Upon taking generator apart it appears too far gone to rebuild. Lots of rust internally.
I'd need over $200 in new parts including a new loom, key switch, regulator, Dynamo and pulley.
We've more than a few good alternators at hand and feel like that's our best option at this point being a working tractor.
With that said I was hoping to find some pictures of mounting options and tension ideas.
Thanks, Lee

Found some brackets and got a new one wire alt mounted and wired. Similar wiring as we did on N 8N. Alt wire to positive post on battery.
But not charging battery. Unless I'm testing wrong the alternator is not charging at it +post on back either, even at high idle.
I'm going to look into wiring in a seperate ground to alternator, as I question mounting ground is enough. I did reverse battery so it is negative ground.
My other concern is this tractor does not have a switch or key. It's wired as: battery to solenoid and still uses original starter with the relay switch.
Any thoughts on this?

Hi Lee, never used a single wire alternator but if the earth is ok check what speed it needs to turn to produce a current. I have a standard type alternator on one of my majors and it doesn't start charging unless i rev it to well over half throttle, then it will stay charging at tickover speed. Was reading that some single wire alternators have a 'cut in' point of 1200 rpm, try revving the engine and see if it starts charging
John

Are we to assume that this is a Power/Super Major -- the one that you previously asked for help with gear box problems? If so then it must, at some time, had a Ford fitted keyed/mechanical switch along with a red light and/or an ammeter -- this to excite your dynamo which had 2 wires; 1 in from the switch, and 1 out to the battery via a regulator box.
Your alternator will, almost certainly, be internally regulated and therefore the old dynamo regulator box must be removed and the wires joined together to complete their related circuits. However, 2 wires are still required -- 1in; 1 out as well as a switch
May I suggest you post the make and model of your alternator so that both you and I can Google the wiring circuits?
Pavel

The single wire alternators do not require an activating wire in, as they are 'self exciting' only one out to the battery

Thanks guys.
Pavel: It's a remanufactured Delco Remy 10DN. Appreciate you asking as that prompted me to look a little deeper.
The Tractor is my '55 FMD. The Power Major I asked about in the other thread was for sale.
Unfortunately that tractor is still sitting in someone's yard. I pass it commuting but never see anyone there anymore and have lost his phone number. He had another Major that was in back that could not be seen from road. If any more develops on those Ill be sure to post on here.
Iam going to try "exciting" it today. It's rare but apparantly one wire alternators can lose magnetism if on shelf for too long.
John B I will try to find out rpm needed before it starts charging.
I've also ordered a shorter belt. Someone put a pipe extension on the block drain, which limits tightening the alternator.
It was not as tight as I wanted, but thought it would have charged.
Edit: might be a Delco 10 SI
The outfit we bought it from advertises it as internally regulated, but there oem states it is a remanufactured 10DN which was originally externally regulated?! Maybe it's converted during rebuild?

I suggest, Leeroy, you google and watch the video to be found under the heading
'How to wire a 1 wire alternator [10SI Delco style] to a farm tractor'
And if that's GMs idea of '1 wire' I need to consult my school's 1 times tables again!
Enjoy your self.
Pavel

I hang my head in shame Pavel, i never realised you could add an exciter wire to them if they are running at low revs. I assumed that one wire alternator meant just that (but as the saying goes assumption is the mother of all f***ups!) I'll know now if i ever fit one. Thanks for pointing that out
John

It's me that should be hanging my head in shame- the alternator I've been dealing with is externally regulated!
Our Major has no control box/ regulator. It's been a while since we first got "Hyacinth" going, but I recall anything
Inside of the instrument box was rusted beyond recognition.
Pave- thanks for that video.

Hi,

Maybe you should find a Lucas generator and a control box and wire it up original. Looks decent and works usually well.

These alternators look out of place on a major.

Rgds emiel

Agreed, Emiel. However, I believe that Leeroy lives in the U.S of A where there are probably very few second hand Lucas internally regulated twin wire alternators around. Here in Oz I fitted a 25amp Lucas some 12 years ago -- no problems since. There is the option of twin wire Bosch ones as well.
Whilst wiring them up is a dream, joining the wires together from the now discarded old regulator is another matter. I should add that I posted a 'how to' when I fitted mine.
Pavel

Hi,

In the USA this might be a good source off inspiration and if necessary parts.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi- ... em&r=mcats

Rgds

Emiel wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 28, 2021 8:49 am

Hi,

Maybe you should find a Lucas generator and a control box and wire it up original. Looks decent and works usually well.

These alternators look out of place on a major.

Rgds emiel

I agree 100% Emiel, it will also be easier to fit and get working.
Sandy

Thanks guys. We buy a lot fro Yesterday's Tractor. Ford 3600, 2120, 8N, 9N as well as an Inernational 340.
But if I was to buy the parts needed it will be over $400 from them, and I'd still need to get a key switch.
Everything from Agriline would be half of that including the correct switch.
At some point I'd love to have her all original, but am going to procure an alternator that is internally regulated and put money into leveling box and drop arms for 3 point hitch. She is also missing the correct drawbar. Using one from our 2120 that we don't need on that tractor.

Purchased a one wire internally regulated alternator and Hyacinth is now charging nicely, even at a very low idle.
I don't think it looks too bad. Again some day it would be nice but for now mudguards, floor plates, drawbar, both leveling boxes and a belt pulley are all more important to me. Almost forgot we need front rim and tube for rear. We have a new rear tire, but we will get the tire guy to pump out ballast(coolant ) and put new tire on.

Don't use coolant in tyres, use a salt based solution there, as coolant attacks tyres.
Sandy

Billy26F5 wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 11, 2021 10:56 am

Don't use coolant in tyres, use a salt based solution there, as coolant attacks tyres.
Sandy

Thanks Sandy, I should have been clearer. Hyacinth came with coolant as ballast, plan is to pump it out and bring it to facility that takes used coolant. Wish I had known it is bad for tires as I would've addressed it sooner!
I don't plan on using any ballast as I don't feel like it is needed for our use. We do have wheel weights for her if needed.

I do recommend ballast as it will lower your centre of gravity just a wee bit. You really need weight at the front (cast wheels are brilliant for that), to avoid tipping up and to give some levering on to the rear wheels when they slip.
Sandy

Alternator doesn't look too bad, right?[url=https://postimages.org/][/u
Now if she was fully restored....

Looking very good Leeroy, a good clean and you'll be ready to enjoy Hyacinth nicely.
Sandy

Thanks Sandy. I wish my early pictures were still on the forum, but I think they were phobucket.
She's come along way from how we got her. We remove the Lord loader, as we already have a loader.
She had lots of weight in steel plates on her lift arms, and pvc pipes for bottom radiator hose.

PVC pipes for radiator hoses is not good. Glad to see you're getting there.
Sandy

From Hyacinths previous life:

Nice loader, you might want to inspect the mounting areas for potential overstressing, although from what I can see it looks like you should be fine as the loader is built with a nice frame.
Sandy

Will do, thanks. The loader is long gone for better or worse. There are some old welds on her, I'll post pictures.