axle check chain bracket threads stripped

[leeroy]

Two of the three axle threads for check chain brackets are stripped.
Loooking for ideas. I have found some posts here about the 4 hole brackets, but would still need to address threads.
Welding seems frowned upon. Would an epoxy for metal be an option?
If and when this can be fixed how should the check chains be adjusted for using a rotary mower/topping? Some slack or tight?
I am used to our 3600 which has the chains set up on the inside of arms which allows the mower to move some. I assume some slack would be best.
Thanks, Lee

[Hair Bear]

Helicoil perhaps?

[John b]

Undo the 8 bolts that hold the axle trumpet on the rear casting and turn it 180°, the holes on top are the same as the bottom

[Emiel]

Undo the 8 bolts that hold the axle trumpet on the rear casting and turn it 180°, the holes on top are the same as the bottom

That’s exactly what I did once. Works well. Don’t forget to chase the threads to clean them. 70 years of debris might be in these top holes.

[John b]

Good point Emiel, don't want to be back to square one with a sheared off bolt in the hole or more stripped threads!!

[henk]

Last year, I have don one hole on the upside. Made a bush with inner and outher treaths. Can't remember now what I used for the outside Metric or UNC or BSW. Have not document it with a drawing.
I notice a rather thin castwork around the hole, so be carefull with Helicoile.

[leeroy]

Sorry guys, I meant to say I had read about turning the trumpet, but don't think I'll gain anything.
Maybe previous owner already did the 180.
[url=https://postimages.org/][

Henk I'm not sure I follow your fix if you'd care to try explaining further?

[John b]

I have seen a Major that just had a piece of angle each side drilled and bolted onto the mudguard bolts that held the check chains, that was used on a mower with no problems. I guess it depends whether you want it to look correct or just be practical

[mathias1]

Is there still thread in the casting?
What about grinding it flat so you have room for a nut and weld it to the casting?

[leeroy]

I have seen a Major that just had a piece of angle each side drilled and bolted onto the mudguard bolts that held the check chains, that was used on a mower with no problems. I guess it depends whether you want it to look correct or just be practical

Hi John, just practical at this time. I finally got rid of that "slobber" at exhaust elbow after rotary mowing for a few hours.

[leeroy]

Is there still thread in the casting?
What about grinding it flat so you have room for a nut and weld it to the casting?

There is thread, just the first 3-4 threads seem stripped on closer inspection. I was able to snug bolts up good after swinging bracket out of the way. Part of my problem is the mating surface of the bracket is bent and makes it impossible to line up the three bolts. I had forgotten about this issue and may have had only one bolt in.
I'm guessing a search for a used bracket may be a good starting point.

For future reference when should check chains be tight so there is no movement and when should they have slack?
Probably loose for a mower? Tight for a cone type fertilizer spreader or a light cultivator?

[John b]

If the implement doesn't touch the ground (fertilizer spreader etc) then relatively tight but for a mower, cultivator etc then I always have 2-3 inches of sway on the implement. If the chains are too slack the implement can swing violently when in the raised position but if they are too tight it can put alot of strain on the chains when the implement is on the ground

[Billy26F5]

I recommend you try and find the heavy duty brackets (part no. E1ADKN-995179B and E1ADKN-995180B), and do as the others say, but you'll then have an extra mounting point. Billy has these brackets and they've been unaffected by the violent swaying we used to get when the chain turnbuckles were seized.
Sandy

[henk]

Leeroy,

Do you have a picture from the side you are refering to? I understand the picture above is the once turned side that is now the upside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp31p8jSWaM
The video shows how a helicoil works. You can buy a set but thats expensive.
You can make one yourself on a lathe. Drill the right diameter hole in a bar and cut inner thread in it. Cut the outside on the needed diameter and cut outher thread.

Drill the correct diameter for the outer thread of the helicoil in the rear axle and cut the inner thread size from the outer thread of the helicoil.
Install the helicoil. Use locktide to secure.

Hope you get the picture.

[Billy26F5]

Some good stuff Henk, although I think some of the mounting points need more work. The heavy duty brackets will help.
Sandy

[leeroy]

Henk here is a picture looking up but not very clear.
I can swing bracket out of way and thread in bolts, but as soon as I snug them up they just about drop out. So my original post is correct,mthose two holes are stripped.

Sandy I like the heavy duty brackets and am on the lookout, thanks.

[Billy26F5]

Only the one bottom left with a shackle fitted is a Major heavy duty bracket, the other 4 hole ones are Super Major brackets.
Sandy

[henk]

Lerooy,

I would go for the heli coil option, but you must have thread tools and a lathe or know someone who has that.
There is a risk if the bigger hole needed for that coil punches trough you will lose oil through it. But with some sealing it can be stopped.

The bolt is a UNC 5/8 -11 thread. Drill dia would be 13.5 mm. Outer dia 15.9 mm.
You could use M 20 normal or fine for the outher thread of the coil.

[leeroy]

Only the one bottom left with a shackle fitted is a Major heavy duty bracket, the other 4 hole ones are Super Major brackets.
Sandy

So Super Major brackets will not work-only heavy duty brackets for FMD?

[leeroy]

Lerooy,

I would go for the heli coil option, but you must have thread tools and a lathe or know someone who has that.
There is a risk if the bigger hole needed for that coil punches trough you will lose oil through it. But with some sealing it can be stopped.

The bolt is a UNC 5/8 -11 thread. Drill dia would be 13.5 mm. Outer dia 15.9 mm.
You could use M 20 normal or fine for the outher thread of the coil.

Thanks Henk, I am going to ask around and look into this more. No lathe here unfortunately.

[John b]

Why not just drill the holes out slightly larger, tap new threads in them and use bigger bolts?

[Billy26F5]

So Super Major brackets will not work-only heavy duty brackets for FMD?

Super Major brackets will work, but there's more chances of things not quite fitting properly due to the different tooling, they would not look right either, whereas the heavy duty Major brackets will look just right as you can see here.

Why not just drill the holes out slightly larger, tap new threads in them and use bigger bolts?

I think that would weaken both parts excessively, especially if not using heavy duty brackets.
Sandy

[John b]

It would have to be drilled out to an even larger diameter to use a helicoil

[Billy26F5]

I hadn't thought of that!
Sandy

[henk]

It would have to be drilled out to an even larger diameter to use a helicoil

You Are right John B, therefor the best way would be to make them yourself and use pa M18 Fine thread.