The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I have a badly leaking radiator, tried already a leakstop but it failed the leak is at the bottom and its behind the casing.
Should i go for an after market one or get it fixed and get it recored at the same time?
I have spare radiator, which has a leak in the core. Might use that one in the meantime.
Both are super radiators, but i noticed a difference in size for the drain tap

The one with the smaller tap is probably not an original one, I would fix the original one, and see if you can then fix the spare one, but give priority to the one that is clearly original (I think the thread is 1/4" BSP, it's the same size as the thread in the block for that drain tap).
Sandy

A leak in the top or bottom tank is easier to repair than the core, if the tubes are old and corroded inside then a re-core will be needed. As Sandy says, i would rather fix an original than use a reproduction one as the originals are far better quality. It may also be worth checking the cooling system pressure with the engine running, I have seen a blown head gasket cause a radiator to leak, the rad was old and corroded and gave up before the cap released the pressure

If it is an original radiator and the top and bottom tanks and the frame are good then definitely go for a recore. I do not know what it might cost where you are but in the UK a top quality job with the correct core to match the original (fin on tube, sandwich fin, 10/11 fins per inch, 8/9 fins per inch etc. etc.) will cost around the £200 plus VAT mark. Quality radiator specialists have machines that can make up the core to correct specification.

I think it's 5 fins per inch on radiators after 1420356, 10 fins per inch on previous radiators that had shutters for TVO engines, both using fins on tubes. It's possible that there was a wee leak there and someone tried to solder it and melted away the solder holding the two halves of the tank causing a much bigger leak, Super Billy's original radiator is like that, currently awaiting repairs that were dismissed as more expensive than a repro radiator that only got a few hours use before the engine failed. I want to try and fix the radiator, but at the moment we're a bit busy.
Sandy

there was a crack at the tap, which we got repaired by soldering it.
I fitted a new belt at the same time, cause that one really had done it's job way too long..
on last run it was blowing some coolant on the cil head. I guess I need to look at the cap, I think it's a pressured one.

Good repair. I might check the torque on the head bolts, I wouldn't loose the pressure cap if possible as it improves cooling.
Sandy

I did take another look at this today, as i have aroad run tomorrow (last one for this year). First i Did retorque all head bolts. Then i found out there is a crack just above the inlet manifold. There was some water dripping out.
Just wondering if it is possible to weld or I need to look for another head.
I'm also wondering this is the original head. I did take a picture of the casting code

That looks like an Ebro code, I would have a go at welding it but be ready to get another head just in case.
Sandy