Power Major hydraulic pump removal.

[TroyTM]

Hello all! First post here. So I have used the search function and tried to find info, but I am not confident given my newness to Fordson tractors. I have a 1960 Power Major that has been neglected for some time. Trying to make it workable and to have less oil leaks. Hydraulics would work but are weak. So went through the control valve and replaced o-rings after a much needed cleaning. Also new piston seal and good cleaning of the sleeve. New o-rings on the horizontal pipe. Also pulled the screen out of the bottom and cleaned it. My original plan was to put it back together put in oil and see how it went. I was not too excited about having to pull off the top cover and fish the pump out. I have to pull the PTO to change the seal. I came across the possibility of being able to take the pump out the bottom when the PTO shaft is out.

So is this actually possible? Does the pedestal and pump come out the bottom if you have the PTO shaft out and remove the large rectangular plate from the rear housing?

I would like to be able to change the o-rings on the vertical pipe as well as in the pump itself rather than do it the way I was planning only to find I would have to drain the oil again and do it anyways.

This old Fordson will now live in a pole shed where it will never be rained on again. It will hopefully run a flail mower, a wood chipper and my NH 310 square baler. Pics or video would be very helpful for me. Thank you all in advance!

[Billy26F5]

Hopefully the pump is ok, but if you want to change the feed pipe o-rings then it's perfectly possible to lower the pump, but as it's pretty heavy too I'm not sure it is actually easier than lifting the top cover. I would test it before you do anything else (a part from the PTO seal), but if you do end up needing to change the feed pipe o-rings or even do something to the pump you don't need to drain the oil again if you lift the top cover and work carefully. The pump o-rings are odd and mignt not be easy to find replacements for them, so definitely make sure it is the pump before doing anything to it. You should set the unloading valve to 2200 psi, that should help you do the test. I think cleaning the filter will make a big difference as they very often implode from being too dirty.
And by the way here's the manual:http://www.fordson.se/5_Hydraulik_Verks ... 47-166.pdf, http://www.fordson.se/6A_Hydraul_Suplem ... 01-024.pdf
Sandy

[TroyTM]

I like the idea of testing before taking more apart. Read in one thread about a cracked pump....yikes. I took the mesh screen filter out and thoroughly cleaned it with solvent. I am replacing the cross shaft seals as well as oil was oozing out of there pretty good. I do have a 2 ton shop crane so I could lift off the top if I have to for changing the o-rings on the vertical feed pipe. I am awaiting my parts right now, but will update how it goes. Thank you for your input and for the links to the hydraulic manuals.

[Billy26F5]

We need to do Billy's cross shaft seals too, you might also want to rebush the pedals (we'll be doing that at the same time as the seals). Cracks in pumps are rare.
Sandy

[TroyTM]

Update to how things are going. Old rusty unloved tractor... So much work but hopeful for its future as a working machine on my small farm. What I really need is the 3pt hitch to work properly. So far I have disassembled and cleaned the control valve assembly replacing o-rings along the way. I did not however take the front cover off... Should I have done that? Replaced the piston seal, it holds like a boss now. Screen was cleaned thoroughly. New oil (A trasmission/hydraulic/differential oil). Lifts quick and easy with no load. Only able to lift about 300lbs of load, and slowly at that, even with revving up the engine.

I have not replaced the o-rings on the feeder tub from pump to housing as I have not lifted off the housing...was hoping to avoid. Will be doing that as it is relatively easy. Will put back together and test.

From what I have mentioned so far, is there anything that sticks out as a "possible cause"? No shims on the unloading valve.

I will pull the pump if I have to. Can it be done without draining the oil? Probably faster and easier to drain the oil.

1960 Power Major.

[TroyTM]

We need to do Billy's cross shaft seals too, you might also want to rebush the pedals (we'll be doing that at the same time as the seals). Cracks in pumps are rare.
Sandy

I did rebush the pedals. a bit off spec for what my cross shaft diameter was so I had to finesse them a bit. Turned out good and should last the rest of my life with regular greasing. Put new zerks in, actually drilled and tapped for threads. Nice to not have oil dripping down the sides. Also nice not to have oil from the PTO shaft and PTO engaging mechanism.

[Billy26F5]

If the hydraulics hold well (no noticeable movement for more than a week) I woulnt remove the cover, but if they don't hold as well as that that's the last bit to do. I don't know if you've checked the feed pipe o-rings but if you haven't I would now. If that doesn't fix the problem I would check the pump drive gear on the PTO shaft sust in case the key has gone, if that's alright then I would look at the pump, remember there are no new ones available.
Sounds good with the pedals, hopefully Billy will get this soon too.
Sandy