Loose hi/Lo selector lever

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Lesterz
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Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

I am trying to remove this lever as there is waaay too much play on the shaft. Everything I have tried so far has not worked ( even undid the nut).
Any one got a good method to try??
Cheers

Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

I'm assuming you have the later clamp bolt type lever, if so you must ensure that the clamp bolt is tight, as the lever should never be allowed to move on the shaft. If however you have the earlier pin type lever (with the large separate knob, used till mid 54) there's not a lot you can do about that as that arrangement was prone to coming loose. As for play on the shaft within the housing it will increase with the use of the lever, not a lot you can do about that either as there are no bushes in there. If you do want to fix it it will be a pretty big job.
Sandy
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Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

Thanks Sandy
The range lever is beside the throttle lever and looks just the same only about 90mm longer. The play is definitely between the lever and shaft.
There is no gap which would indicate that it is a clamp type lever. If I could get the lever off, maybe I could get a clamp type lever or modify this one to make it so.
My tractor is 1957 model. How did the early lever types tighten onto the shaft. Was it some sort wedge arrangement between the shaft and lever?
I still need ideas on how to get it off.
I assume there is seal on the shaft which would not like being heated too much.
Cheers
Lester

Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

Could you post a pic please? (see this: viewtopic.php?p=53955#p53955)
If yours is a 57 it should have the clamp bolt type, but there are always surprises. This is what the clamp bolt type looks like (Billy's one, can post a better pic if needed):
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If you do want to remove the lever anyway the clamp bolt must be completely removed before removing the lever as the shaft has a wee groove for the bolt to fit in.
The early type had a large separate knob and was secured by a pin through the shaft (a bit like the pedal cross shaft collar, on the RH side), it always worked itself loose, and it's not an easy job to fix one of them.
Sandy
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mathias1
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by mathias1 »

Lesterz wrote:
Sun May 07, 2023 2:25 am
Thanks Sandy
The range lever is beside the throttle lever and looks just the same only about 90mm longer. The play is definitely between the lever and shaft.
There is no gap which would indicate that it is a clamp type lever. If I could get the lever off, maybe I could get a clamp type lever or modify this one to make it so.
My tractor is 1957 model. How did the early lever types tighten onto the shaft. Was it some sort wedge arrangement between the shaft and lever?
I still need ideas on how to get it off.
I assume there is seal on the shaft which would not like being heated too much.
Cheers
Lester
Yes, there's a seal behind the lever.
Fordson Super Major New Performance
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major
Selene built on the Fordson Super Major New Performance with Silvant winch

Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

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this is my lever

Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

Looks like someone has filled in the gap to allow that to tighten on to the shaft, remove the clamp bolt first, the lever should then come off, then some pics of the area (particularly the inner side) will help confirm my suspicions.
Some general pics of your Major would be very nice too as it looks like a nice one, and also as 1957 saw lots of changes in a very short period from February to April, and it would be great to see what you have. If you can find the serial number and casting codes that would be even better.
Sandy
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Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

Thanks Sandy, how in devils name do I get that $(/; bolt out? Do I really need to get it out?? Maybe leave it as is? I guess if it gets to the stage that the lever is no longer holding on the shaft, then it might just fall off🙄.
Now that I have worked out how to load pics, I will take a few tomorrow and find some numbers.
Cheers
Lester

Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

Try pushing up a bit with something then pull the lever up a bit (so that the opposite end goes down) to increase the force on the bolt, it should come out without too much of a fight. Do be careful not to ruin the thread. The lever will never be able to come off with the bolt fitted.
Sandy
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Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

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No bonnet at the moment. The hinge has rusted out.

Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

Very nice Major Mk2 you've got, from mid to late August 57. Bonnets do suffer like that, but if you manage to fix it you'll have saved having to get a new one that is quite expensive considering what it is. Your air hose is very likely to suffer this problem (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8634), so bear that in mind when the bonnet goes back on. Your exhaust is very unusual, not any Ford type or the Australian Yuba spark arrestor.
Sandy
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Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

I finally persuaded the pin to come out. Looks like someone tried building it up with weld sometime in the past.
I will add some more weld to it and grind it down to fit (hopefully).
I ran the lever over a wire wheel and it has never been filled in. Looks very original.
You mentioned casting numbers would be of interest. Where would I look?
Cheers
Lester

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Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

You've gou me wondering now as all our levers do have the split
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but Henk seems to have what you have viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1953
Whatever the details the most important thing with these levers is to ensure that the bolt is tight and that the lever and shaft move as one.
There are lots of casting codes but the block, gearbox and rear axle are probably the ones you most want to find, but if you look here (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8125&p=56189#p56189) you'll see that there are lots of them scattered everywhere. Also see that the serial number under injector no. 1 coincides with the plate on the firewall.
Sandy
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Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

I couldn’t find a serial number on engine block. Is it on right or left, near anything distinctive?
Here are some casting numbers in pics.
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Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

Lesterz wrote:
Tue May 16, 2023 7:29 am
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Would you mind posting these a bit bigger (particularly the one of the front axle) as I'm struggling to see some of the codes.
The half shaft casting is 15 July 57, the rear axle casting is 22 July 57, the gearbox is 24 July 57, the block is 23 August 57 and I can't read the axle extension (what you've seen is the part no., E27N-3243). The thing on the head is I think an abreviated part no. There will be more of these codes scattered around, on castings. The serial number is under injector no. 1. If there isn't one there then check on the flange behind the starter, but your engine is too late for that.
Sandy
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Lesterz
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Lesterz »

Found engine number on the flange behind the starter. Same as what is on the tag in front of battery.
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I couldn’t read the number on left front wheel housing but the right side looks like 11 J7F.
I am getting oil coming up out of the long breather bolt under the fuel tank. Oil level is actually low at the moment so I cannot see why it is happening.
The rocker cover also leaks oil. I have put a new cork gasket ( roughly 2.5mm thick) under it but still leaking. Is cork not the right option or should I double up with cork. I don’t like using gasket goop as it is too hard to get off next time.
Cheers and thanks
Lester

Billy26F5
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Re: Loose hi/Lo selector lever

Post by Billy26F5 »

That means that there has been no major change, which is a good thing. The RH extension looks like 11 July 57, I don't know the day but the LH extension looks like July 57 as well.
That suggests that the bolt needs a clean, but it could be that it has been erroneously fitted to the RH side, which is not correct. The rocker cover gasket is indeed cork, you need to ensure everything is clean before fitting it and also that the screws are actually tight enough. Don't use liquid gasket there as you need reasonable access for adjusting tappet clearances and fixing injectors, which are the most likely reasons you might need to remove the cover for.
Sandy
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