The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Took my major out today for a run round went too change down a gear the tractor clunked a little like it wasn't going into gear fully and then went it but after this the tractor was making a grinding noise, sounds too be coming from the transmission, popping it into reverse and then slowly going backwards it was almost like it was sat in a rut going back abit then having resistance if that makes sense, would anyone have any ideas on what could of gone wrong internally many thanks

I think you've answered your own question to some extent if you change on the move, as that willl cause real trouble. If however you didn't I'm not too sure why that's happened, remember that Major gearboxes always make some noise anyway.
Sandy

This noise is not a noise it's always had unfortunately so I'm guessing something's causing it, the transmission brake has been stuck off when I bought it and couldn't be engaged wondering whether that could be a possible problem or would you say is that's been stuck and not possible to engage it would be unlikely too of moved? What problems could off been caused changing on the move it wasn't at a 100% stop if im honest was running at maybe a walking pace?

When on the road towing heavy trailers always had to change gear on the move. Easy to slide high/low lever to low if you got the speed/revs right. Same with second to first in primary box. Had no alternative and caused no damage.

Hi welcome on the board.

If you drain the oil and take of the side cover, it might tell you a lot.
Transmission handbrake could be causing rhe problem.
Is it possible to engage disengage the pto without any issues?

Hello there yes I'm hoping too do that this weekend see what comes out from there if there's filings would almost answer my issue something's definitely broke up in there , yes pto still engages and disengages fine, I'm guessing the transmission brake would be a split and sort job would it?

I'm not saying people didn't do this but there is no design feature to allow changing unless all gears are stationary. Anything else is likely to cause severe damage (there are ways to minimise that but they involve learning the hard way, which can make things like that worse). The comments about the handbrake however do sound more troublesome, but normally if it gets left on it will go solid holding the tractor completely immobilised until the plates are replaced (which requires the gearbox to come out after splitting; I would think that's the reason why Ebro never fitted this highly efficient brake to any of their tractors). These are available new but not cheap. Mathias' suggestion is probably the best thing right now, some pics would also help. Would also be interested in the age of your Major, as that can be relevant if you need to remove the gearbox.
Sandy

Hi Sandy, I see what you mean, I could well of done some serious damage then really as it wasn't completely stopped, as for the transmission brake it wasn't working when I got the tractor the lever is all the way off and is jammed down there so no way of pulling it back on, but I have read up on these getting left on and dealerships back in the day grinding off the first couple notches too minimise this issue, that would give me a starting place il attach some pictures of the tractor if I can work out how too and then update with other pictures when I've dropped the oil and took the plates off , it's a 1958 power major with the live drive clutch on it

Many thanks for your replies

Very nice Power Major, I see you've got a much earlier bonnet. I think several parts are actually much later than a 58, more like a 60, but only the serial number and casting codes can answer that. Looks to me like the handbrake isn't fully off from the pics, so that might be what's wrong, but not totally sure as the rachet isn't visible. If you really do have a live clutch it looks in trouble as the release arm is in the single clutch position. Can't see if it's a live clutch pedal.
Sandy

Thanks sandy,Yeah i reckon some parts have been changed around, maybe in a previous minor refurb the handbrake is fully forward and hitting the bolt that holds the ratchet part too the tractor so I take it that it should be fully off? Il add a picture of the clutch, are you meaning the 2 holes on the bottom of the clutch? Which hole is for what if you don't mind me asking? The clutch is working the pto and the drive separately at the moment but engaging the pto does cause some grinding, I can't pull the lever in without any grinding even with the clutch fully depressed

https://postimg.cc/NyjNbSVY

The upper hole is for using the hydraulics when ploughing, allowing gear changing without affecting the PTO and hydraulics, the lower hole is for PTO work to enable stopping the PTO if needed. Never change the position of the PTO lever unless the clutch is fully down (stop pin in lower hole) as otherwise the PTO clutch is not affected. This all makes it clear you do have a live clutch, but one with quite a lot of wear somewhere. The handbrake lever seems quite bent, so that might make me think it's not fully off. That doesn't mean the nut holding the plates on isn't properly adjusted which could be the cause of the noise.
Sandy

Interesting stuff I knew it had two holes but that sums it all up il report back when I've taken a look at the oil and taken plates off many thanks

You might want to reset the free play, it's a bit involved (compared to how simple a single clutch is) but it can sort your PTO trouble. With the stop pin in the lower hole shorten the release rod until the PTO stops turning (if the pedal doesn't hit the pin when doing that the clutch will have bottomed intenally, requiring a full clutch overhaul), then put the pin in the upper hole and check that the gears can be selected without clashes (if not then repeat the above), finally adjust the bolt on the pedal itself to give 1/2" of free play at the foot pad.
If you find any metal in the oil it does suggest handbrake issues although incorrect gear changing can have similar effects.
Sandy

Probably is worth doing that would like too get everything working properly like it should overtime, time will tell when I get round too looking into it, hopefully not too much damaged has occurred

Sounds like it may an issue with the selectors and the interlock mechanism. You will need to take off the side cover near the PTO lever and investigate . Handbrakes don't usually stick off, it's usually the other way round. Has this one been stuck on and the plates been damaged or become welded together affecting the "feel" of the handbrake lever?

Been back too the tractor today drained the oil out, turned out too be very metallic when all was drained out look inside and found chunks of metal,looks like gear teeth looking around inside there looks like the bearing has given up and then a ball has dropped out and maybe a gear had fallen victim too it, no other option but too split the tractor is my guess will attach photos below

Hi Sandy looking at my clutch today it appears too only have the one hole? Would there be an option that someone has replaced the pedal for the wrong on?
https://postimg.cc/0b5VNtnk

Billy26F5 wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 06, 2024 8:23 am

Very nice Power Major, I see you've got a much earlier bonnet. I think several parts are actually much later than a 58, more like a 60, but only the serial number and casting codes can answer that. Looks to me like the handbrake isn't fully off from the pics, so that might be what's wrong, but not totally sure as the rachet isn't visible. If you really do have a live clutch it looks in trouble as the release arm is in the single clutch position. Can't see if it's a live clutch pedal.
Sandy

Ouch, that bearing has gone on other tractors and is not the easiest to replace as you'll see in the manual.
https://www.fordson.se/4B_V%E4xell%E5da ... 16-035.pdf
The bits mostly look like the roller cage, but it does look like there might be a damaged tooth from them, although what you see in the pic looks really good. In the same pic it looks like you're missing the handbrake plates completely. The clutch pedal is a live clutch type and unless the stop bracket is odd everything looks ok. That will require splitting, and removing the gearbox (remember it's heavy!), that should enable you to sort the handbrake at the same time and also give it a good clean. While you're there ensure the clutch is good too, as these are known to be a problem, although normally with the more powerful engines.
Sandy

My friend and I are hopefully gonna have a go splitting it next weekend luckily his old man has a splitting rail so should make things abit easier, have you any tips on splitting it I've never done one before but thought there's only one place too learn and just have a go, also anywhere too get bearings and gears from? The handbrake plates maybe missing I'm not exactly sure where there meant too be so didn't really look for them cheers

A splitting rail should make life pretty easy, other than that just make sure everything is well held and won't come crashing down. Hope you don't need to replace any gears but there's only one way to find out, the bearing shouldn't be too difficult to find, it's part no. N-7065E, an N212 bearing. The handbrake plates are on the reverse idler, visible between the upper and lower shafts. If you do need to replace a gear it will have to come from a scrapy or other second hand source.
Sandy

I hope so, fingers crossed the gears have got away without damage then! Thanks for the help no doubt il be back asking more as we split the tractor

Just remember to jam some wedges or similar between the axle and tombstone both sides before you start to stop it tipping over.

Good point don't want that starting too go over, I'm guessing I can split between the gear and clutch and leave the gearbox on the back end or is it a case then gear casting will have too be separate aswell