Gear and oil issues

[Michael_l]

Hi all, this will be my first post in this forum.

I have a Fordson Super Major which I bought it in order to move snow around my house.

Worked great first half of the year but then problems started to arise...

First I had problems with the hydraulics pressure being too high. Alot of changed orings as a result of that. Checked the oil level and it was too high. I took particular care when changing the hydraulics and transmission oils so this was supricing.

After a while I started to get issues with the tractor getting stuck in gear every now and again. Took out the fork selector and believed it to be broken so I went to a tractor workshop and they came back to tell me it worked flawlessly.

I believe the root cause to the issue is oil leaking from the transmission to the hydraulic tank and hence giving me a too high oil pressure in the hydraulics and too little in the transmission with the result of too dry parts that tend to get stuck.

Does this sound resonable?

How ans what can I do to solve this issue permanently? Because now I've stopped using the tractor. Its too much hassle. Please advice.

Best regards from northen Sweden.

[Billy26F5]

What serial number do you have? This can change the details a bit.
When the rear axle is high, is the gearbox low? If so you have one of the commonest problems with Major's, the short term fix is to pump the oil back using the external service valve and a hose to a modified repro oil filler cap, when suitable you then drain the oils and replace the PTO seals (seal in a NP) and the transmission large gear seal as required (If the gearbox and rear axle level off at the same level the PTO seal(s) are leaking, if not it's only the main seal which requires splitting the gearbox from the rear end) to fix it drfinitively.
What oil are you using? If you use wrong oils all sorts of issues can happen.
What pressures were you getting? Relief valve should open at 2500 psi, if it's the unloading type valve it will then drop to 300 psi until the lever is lowered, the later valve will maintain 2500 psi. High pressure has nothing to do with the oil level, it might be a relief valve issue or that someone has put too many shims in. A look at the relief valve might be worth it.
I've never heard of a problem like that, the common one is jumping out in the more used gears on tractors before 08B-743082. On later tractors the gear lever is stiffer as a result of new detent retainers fitted which prevent any jumping out of gear. Doubt it's directly lack of oil, but the lack of oil could cause bearing problems that could jam the gear in an engaged position although it could equally cause it to jump out too. Is this with the main gear lever or the high low? The high low is normally ok, as long as the lever is on tight and it's used frequently. If not it can get stiff.
Pics will help a lot.
Sandy

[Michael_l]

wow!

I'm thrilled over the vast amount of comments you have. Thanks for that!

I'm not too familliar with everything on the tractor. Where might I find the serial number?

When the rear axle is high, is the gearbox low?

The answer is yes.

If so you have one of the commonest problems with Major's, the short term fix is to pump the oil back using the external service valve and a hose to a modified repro oil filler cap

I have though about pumping the oil back but I'm afraid I wont be doing anything else than that. But I agree, thats a short term solution.

when suitable you then drain the oils and replace the PTO seals (seal in a NP)

What does "seal in a NP" mean?

and the transmission large gear seal as required (If the gearbox and rear axle level off at the same level the PTO seal(s) are leaking, if not it's only the main seal which requires splitting the gearbox from the rear end) to fix it drfinitively.

So if I understand you correctly I need to split the tractor and replace the main seal? Is that the name of thet part. "Main seal". I will have the possibility to have the tractor in a workshop and mended next year. I would be good to get the terms correct (for my own sake).

What oil are you using? If you use wrong oils all sorts of issues can happen.

I will get back to you on that. Dont remember on the top of my head.

What pressures were you getting? Relief valve should open at 2500 psi, if it's the unloading type valve it will then drop to 300 psi until the lever is lowered, the later valve will maintain 2500 psi. High pressure has nothing to do with the oil level, it might be a relief valve issue or that someone has put too many shims in. A look at the relief valve might be worth it.

I have no way of measuring the actual pressure but its obvious that the pressure is too high. I did film it a while ago prior to changing the O-rings. See links below.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZH_CWEqeNrU
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5Dj5p7gXhSo

I've never heard of a problem like that, the common one is jumping out in the more used gears on tractors before 08B-743082. On later tractors the gear lever is stiffer as a result of new detent retainers fitted which prevent any jumping out of gear. Doubt it's directly lack of oil, but the lack of oil could cause bearing problems that could jam the gear in an engaged position although it could equally cause it to jump out too. Is this with the main gear lever or the high low? The high low is normally ok, as long as the lever is on tight and it's used frequently. If not it can get stiff.

It is with the main gear lever. Allthough I had a problem with the high/low in the beginning. I assumed it was because it had rusted and that the prior owner didn't change high/low that often (never). As soon as I work out how I can post pictures I will

I am immensely grateful for the time you've taken to answer my question/s.

[Michael_l]

found out how to post pictures now

https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... 0322393160 These are the one that separates. (one gets locked and the other side moves free).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... 0322393160 Here I'm on the verge to open the valve and replace the O-ring (after that no problem). Until the pressure arises again.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... ed-public/ The plunger taken out and switch the o-ring.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... ed-public/

[Billy26F5]

Yours is a Super Major not a NP Super Major. Serial number is under injector no. 1.
Those gears all look good to me, are you sure the selectors are holding them properly? Should hold both gears in the groove of the selector and look as it does when taken apart. Looks like you're in reverse, what does it look like in top? I'm wondering about a possible failure of the bearings there (either N-7025E or N-7118D)
I see you had a bad leak from the flow control valve, we have some plugs that leak but only one is as bad as that.
You need to check how different the levels are, if they level off the PTO seals (there are two back to back) need replacing, that involves removing the PTO casting after pulling back the PTO shaft some 6" or so. (you'll need to drain both oils for this too) You do need to split the axle for the main seal. Part nos. are E1ADKN-7297B for the PTO seals and E27N-7082 for the main seal.
I don't think that's excess pressure, it looks like just a leak. You might however need to check the internal linkage depoending on what's happening. a video of the hydraulics working would make this clear.
Sandy

[Michael_l]

I made this short video last summer regarding the fork selector (because that was my first guess as well). I thought that the forks should be able to move (both of them) but according to the tractor workshop I went to they said it was working flawlessly. If thats correct or not I dont know. I'm not that good with mechanics, but eager to learn

Video of fork selector
https://youtube.com/shorts/x5vwyx7jMXk? ... didiFoW9KH

I've searched for all the parts you suggested,

N-7025E could not find this anywhere. Any suggestions to where this could be bought?

N-7118D https://www.silverfoxtractorspares.com/ ... 4513-p.asp

E1ADKN-7297B https://www.olssonparts.com/se/sv/produ ... rEy4LSSRiW

E27N-7082 https://old20tractorparts.com/different ... 50004.html

[Michael_l]

What serial number do you have?
What oil are you using? If you use wrong oils all sorts of issues can happen.

Serial number: 6050 G 3167 ?

Pictures of serial nr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/201925399 ... ed-public/

OILS:
Transmission: UTTO, Universal Tractor Transmission Oil (10W-30)
Hydraulics: ISO 32 (hydraulics oil)

[Michael_l]

I looked in the registration papers of my tractor and it reads:

ID number: 1600233

If I type that information into a website for Fordson tractors it reads that the tractor is from april 1961.

The webside used:
https://www.selen.nu/cgi-bin/trsnr.pl?lang=en

[Billy26F5]

You can only move one at a time, there's an interlocking bar to prevent selecting two gears at once. The upper one is more awkward bur seems to be the one that works better from your other comments (it's the one you use when selecting with the lever towards the LH side), I think it's ok. N-7025E is a 6212 bearing but don't order anything till you've seen what's actually wrong. To do so you might well need to remove the gearbox so quite a big job.
Those oils are badly wrong, they should be SUTO 10W30 if at all modern (better to use older style oils) and only mineral HD oils as you need in the engine (you could also use SAE 90 gear oil if you want to, I prefer it myself as it was the oil used before universal oils appeared in 59 and better suited for gearboxes in particular), Ford went for SAE 20W30HD in later years. Do not use ordinary hydraulic oils. Gearbox and rear axle use the same oil. 1600233 sounds right but check under injector no. 1 on the block to be sure, one of the last before heavier valve springs were introduced but with the later timing gears. 6050G J3167 is an indication that your head was cast at Ford's Lemington foundry, and the mould used for this kind of head (which in this case coincides with the part no. roughly, some are far less similar, just 1000 tractors later the head changed but the mould didn't).
Sandy

[Michael_l]

You can only move one at a time, there's an interlocking bar to prevent selecting two gears at once. The upper one is more awkward bur seems to be the one that works better from your other comments (it's the one you use when selecting with the lever towards the LH side), I think it's ok.

Well, Its only one that actually moves. Even if I fold the one that works great back to its original position the other one only moves a very little way. I thought it was suppose to be that way? According to the workshop I went to they told me that it was completly fine.

https://youtube.com/shorts/x5vwyx7jMXk? ... 75t0VReRs9

It doesn't move more than in the video.

Are they suppose to move more than that?

What would the implication be with respect to the oils be? What is the difference between SUTO oil compared to UTTO oil?

All the best, Michael

[Billy26F5]

The "folding" is what stops you moving the other one, try moving the upper one without disturbing the lower one, it will take a fair load as you don't have the gear lever to help you when it's off. Wondering if the locking bar is seized (unlikely but not impossible). You can try refitting the selector plate and moving the gear lever from 1st to 2nd and back repetedly, then it will be easier to see if something is wrong or free up the locking bar.
The issues with both oils are additives, many of them in more modern ones attack phosphor bronze used in lots of bushes in the gearbox and rear axle. Simpler oils as used by Ford don't have such issues, If you use universal oil ensure it's an HD oil, if you use gear oil don't use EP oils. I'm not as familiar with modern oils.
Sandy

[mathias1]

I'm wondering how the ball end of the gear stick looks like. If there's a lot of play it can be difficult to change gears.

[Michael_l]

I'm wondering how the ball end of the gear stick looks like. If there's a lot of play it can be difficult to change gears.

Hi Mathias!

I've looked at that and there isn't much at all. There was, however, a certain play in the end knob before but that was fixed. I had to re-thighten it and it now works perfectly.

Here is a video I made earlier regarding the play (before it was fixed).

https://youtube.com/shorts/qpqjgEJ1f-g

[Billy26F5]

That's a lot of play, it should be solid. Make sure the socket is solid on the shaft as well. Both should be wire locked. Billy has a fair amount of play but we have no issues with changing gear, Super Billy is harder because of the new detent retainers but that's it. That's not to say it's impossible. Try seeing if some gears have play on their shafts, it'll be the most likely cause of sticking in gear.
Sandy

[Michael_l]

That's a lot of play, it should be solid. Make sure the socket is solid on the shaft as well. Both should be wire locked. Billy has a fair amount of play but we have no issues with changing gear, Super Billy is harder because of the new detent retainers but that's it. That's not to say it's impossible. Try seeing if some gears have play on their shafts, it'll be the most likely cause of sticking in gear.
Sandy

I agree that was a lot of play. I also assumed that I'd found the issue when finding that. I fixed it but the same thing happened again two times after that again. This is after fixing and locking it to a solid position.