Left brake stuck when starting to drive.
Left brake stuck when starting to drive.
On my Roadless the left discbrake is stuck on when I touch the brake pedal. Then i have to reverse to get it off. To get it work normally I use to drive 10 to 15 metres with the brakes and the diff lock on in the first gear to get it warm up a bit and then it´s ok for the moment, but the next day it is the same thing again. I have changed the disc linings and returnsprings and the balls are ok and I can´t find anything wrong with it. No oil leak and adjusted by the book. Do You have any ideas what might cause the problem?
Those disc brakes are always a problem, I am suffering from the same problem on Nuffy. Just touch the brake pedal and the brake locks on and you have to reverse to get it off.
When you set your brakes up, do you slacken the pull nuts at the front, right off then turn the screw under the housing up tight and back one turn and a half before re tightening the pull nut?
It also helps to use a block of wood about 25mm between the footplate and the brake pedals. Adjust the brake until the wheel locks then just back off until it is free.
The springs on the actuator plates need to be good and the balls run free in the ramps. Also make sure the splines are clean and free from rust on the bull pinion shafts.
Rust on the brake surfaces can be a problem so if your tractor is not used for a time, the problem will occur. Dust in the brakes will also cause it.
I have been told that there is now a "dry" graphite lubricant that can be used in the ball grooves and on the splines but this is new info. and I have not checked it out with the brake people locally yet.
It seems to be all brake problems at the moment, I have one locking on Nuffy and the brake operating shaft has siezed on Harriet, the TE20, so my yard is full of stripped tractors and work keeps getting in the way of completing them
When you set your brakes up, do you slacken the pull nuts at the front, right off then turn the screw under the housing up tight and back one turn and a half before re tightening the pull nut?
It also helps to use a block of wood about 25mm between the footplate and the brake pedals. Adjust the brake until the wheel locks then just back off until it is free.
The springs on the actuator plates need to be good and the balls run free in the ramps. Also make sure the splines are clean and free from rust on the bull pinion shafts.
Rust on the brake surfaces can be a problem so if your tractor is not used for a time, the problem will occur. Dust in the brakes will also cause it.
I have been told that there is now a "dry" graphite lubricant that can be used in the ball grooves and on the splines but this is new info. and I have not checked it out with the brake people locally yet.
It seems to be all brake problems at the moment, I have one locking on Nuffy and the brake operating shaft has siezed on Harriet, the TE20, so my yard is full of stripped tractors and work keeps getting in the way of completing them
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Brian
Brian
I just serviced the disc brakes on my Nuffy 10/42 and found the same problem(rust and dust). A thorough cleaning, roughing up the discs with 100 grit paper, and removing the rust from the facings and splines solved the problem. I also put a light coating of liquid silicone on the splines and ball ramps and let it dry before assembly. Everything now works great. Hope this helps.
Never give up!