Installing a motor warmerer
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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- Location: Skåne, Sweden
Installing a motor warmerer
Its cold here in sweden! I am thinking about installing a motor warmerer that heats the coolant using a device placed outside (Lside) of the tractor (see calix.se 'PH 500') One connection point is the coolent drain tap at the base of the motor. Since the old tap has no nozzle to connect the tubing (20mm) I think I need to replace it with something you can connect the tubing to. Any ideas? What is the dimention of that tap? 1/4 inch? Can the closest metric equivalent be used? Second question is where do I connect the return tube? I found a ref about a 'square nut' near the upper left front that allows access to the coolent, but no luck finding it. Any advice?
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- True Blue
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hello
there is a hole in the middle of the engine block right above the starter were there is a plug installed. That is easely removed and you can buy a heater that fits in to that I dont know the dimension of that hole, but a heater ment for engine block to all perkins 152 series fit into that.
there is a hole in the middle of the engine block right above the starter were there is a plug installed. That is easely removed and you can buy a heater that fits in to that I dont know the dimension of that hole, but a heater ment for engine block to all perkins 152 series fit into that.
6o Dexta Roadless
62 Dexta
63 Super Dexta
75 Shilter UT
62 Aebi
62 Dexta
63 Super Dexta
75 Shilter UT
62 Aebi
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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Here's the setup I have though you have to drill and tap the coolant elbow fitting on the head (wasn't done by me though I used it to add the circulating heater).
Edit added:
Also my heaters a 1500 watt so I don't have to plug in as long (about 1/2 hour at -30+C so far). Also not sure if you've used these before but a warning, don't plug it in until the coolant has been well circulated by running the engine, if plugged in dry (no liquid in them) they tend to burn out.
Top View
To Head
To Lower Block
Hope this helps,
A.B.Ames
P.S.
I seen a similar set up but rather than a circulating heater they used quick couplers to connect to a separate propane circulating coolant heater so it didn't have to be near electricity.
Edit added:
Also my heaters a 1500 watt so I don't have to plug in as long (about 1/2 hour at -30+C so far). Also not sure if you've used these before but a warning, don't plug it in until the coolant has been well circulated by running the engine, if plugged in dry (no liquid in them) they tend to burn out.
Top View
To Head
To Lower Block
Hope this helps,
A.B.Ames
P.S.
I seen a similar set up but rather than a circulating heater they used quick couplers to connect to a separate propane circulating coolant heater so it didn't have to be near electricity.
'62 Super Dexta, White 2-60 FWA, '53 Terra-Trac GT34 w/loader.
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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Thanks for the pics
I will try to avoid drilling into metal just yet! I thought splicing in a 'T' pipe' junction in the upper 45mm radiator hose so I can attach the output hose (20mm) of the heater to it. The intake hose for the heater would be attached to the drain tap on the engine block. Yet another question: if I take out the drain tap on the engine block and replace it with a screw-on nozzle that will take the 20mm heater hose, what diameter is the part that I screw in (what is the size of the hole)? I assume its the same diameter as part 5175, 'Radiator Drain Tap 1/4" at Agriline. So the male end of the nozzle should be 1/4"? or its meteric equivalent?
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Hi Lost in Sweden,
Yes, had mine not been drill/tapped already I too would have made up a tee in the upper hose.
As for pipe/thread size for the bottom, I'm afraid I don't know the size off hand without tearing it apart. My suggestion would be to pick up a few sizes larger and smaller then return what you don't use. Also as for a metric equivalent, you my not find one as my experience with working on both so far has found that even if the diameters are similar the # of threads (pitch?) in a given distance are different. Anytime I've got them mixed up I can't get more than a turn without starting to cross thread.
Hope this helps, sorry i couldn't give more
A.B.Ames
Yes, had mine not been drill/tapped already I too would have made up a tee in the upper hose.
As for pipe/thread size for the bottom, I'm afraid I don't know the size off hand without tearing it apart. My suggestion would be to pick up a few sizes larger and smaller then return what you don't use. Also as for a metric equivalent, you my not find one as my experience with working on both so far has found that even if the diameters are similar the # of threads (pitch?) in a given distance are different. Anytime I've got them mixed up I can't get more than a turn without starting to cross thread.
Hope this helps, sorry i couldn't give more
A.B.Ames
'62 Super Dexta, White 2-60 FWA, '53 Terra-Trac GT34 w/loader.
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- True Blue
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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Thanks for the info. Replaced the tap with a screw-on nozzle that seems to fit fine. Now for attaching the heater output somewhere to the upper portion of the tractor. I thought about cutting one of the two 45 mm hoses going to and from the radiator and splicing in a T junction, but that looks difficult. Could easily leak. What is bolted to the upper portion of the cooling system, with a square bolt, and with a wire running to the stearing column (which is itself wrapped in a protective wire)? Is it the temperature gauge? Is that the same as a thermostat? I have read that the thermostat is important in keeping the temp of the engine even, so it needs to be in place and even checked. But if its just a thermometer, I maybe can do without, at least in the winter. Comments?
The square bolt that you asked about is indeed the temperature gauge sensor. The thermostat (if it hasn't been removed) is above the water pump under the "cup" where the upper radiator water hose is attached. The thermostat is basically a valve that restricts the flow of water to the radiator until the water is hot enough. When hot, the thermostat opens and lets water circulate more freely. This allows the engine to reach the correct operating temperature faster.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat
Here's a picture of what it looks like:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat
Here's a picture of what it looks like:
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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So what does the temperature gauge sensor do? Does it influence the thermostat, or does that function independently? If the temperature gauge sensor simply reports the temp to the dashboard, then it actually can be removed (during the winter) without effecting the tractor's function. So, can I simply turn the bolt and take it out, without it being damaged? (I drained the system).
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The sensor end bolt does unscrew to reveal the sensor slotted in, but, if it has been in place for a long time it can be hard to remove. If it does not come easily I have used penetrating oil to help but be careful not to break the pipe off. There may be some other good tips to do this.
1964 Super Dexta
1958 Dexta
Mini Dexta
1944 Ford Ferguson 9NAN
Ferguson Teeny 20
1958 Dexta
Mini Dexta
1944 Ford Ferguson 9NAN
Ferguson Teeny 20
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- True Blue
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Yes the temperature sensor and dial on the dash are there only to inform you of the coolant temperature.
Removing it does not affect the functioning of the tractor.
The wire is not wire.
It is a very thin pipe,which contains ether (i think),so the dial is driven by the expansion because of the heat.
I would try to find some other way of reading the temperature,if you really need that hole for your heater.
I have seen some diesels overheat,in summer i must add.
Too little RPM was mostly the cause.
Removing it does not affect the functioning of the tractor.
The wire is not wire.
It is a very thin pipe,which contains ether (i think),so the dial is driven by the expansion because of the heat.
I would try to find some other way of reading the temperature,if you really need that hole for your heater.
I have seen some diesels overheat,in summer i must add.
Too little RPM was mostly the cause.
The sensor is not connected to the thermostat in any way so it can be removed. If you plan to put it back sometimes be careful not to break the cable coming from the sensor. Do not bend it too much or it might be damaged. The inner "wire" or tube of the cable contains ether or something similar and if it escapes it won't work any more.Lost in Sweden wrote:So what does the temperature gauge sensor do? Does it influence the thermostat, or does that function independently? If the temperature gauge sensor simply reports the temp to the dashboard, then it actually can be removed (during the winter) without effecting the tractor's function. So, can I simply turn the bolt and take it out, without it being damaged? (I drained the system).
Here's some info how the capillary temperature gauge works:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt101.htm