Installing a motor warmerer

This forum is about the Fordson Dexta, Super Dexta and Petrol Dexta.
Post Reply
Lost in Sweden
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 39
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Skåne, Sweden

Installing a motor warmerer

Post by Lost in Sweden »

Its cold here in sweden! I am thinking about installing a motor warmerer that heats the coolant using a device placed outside (Lside) of the tractor (see calix.se 'PH 500') One connection point is the coolent drain tap at the base of the motor. Since the old tap has no nozzle to connect the tubing (20mm) I think I need to replace it with something you can connect the tubing to. Any ideas? What is the dimention of that tap? 1/4 inch? Can the closest metric equivalent be used? Second question is where do I connect the return tube? I found a ref about a 'square nut' near the upper left front that allows access to the coolent, but no luck finding it. Any advice?

dexta roadless
True Blue
Posts: 153
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 9:50 pm
Location: Norway

Post by dexta roadless »

hello
there is a hole in the middle of the engine block right above the starter were there is a plug installed. That is easely removed and you can buy a heater that fits in to that I dont know the dimension of that hole, but a heater ment for engine block to all perkins 152 series fit into that. :)
6o Dexta Roadless
62 Dexta
63 Super Dexta
75 Shilter UT
62 Aebi

terry274
True Blue
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:52 pm
Location: Middle Tennessee, USA

Post by terry274 »

The hole is 1.25'' (1-1/4")
Terry
--
1964 Fordson Super Dexta

A.B.Ames
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:46 pm
Location: Wabigoon, NW Ontario, Canada

Post by A.B.Ames »

Here's the setup I have though you have to drill and tap the coolant elbow fitting on the head (wasn't done by me though I used it to add the circulating heater).
Edit added:
Also my heaters a 1500 watt so I don't have to plug in as long (about 1/2 hour at -30+C so far). Also not sure if you've used these before but a warning, don't plug it in until the coolant has been well circulated by running the engine, if plugged in dry (no liquid in them) they tend to burn out.

Top View
Image

To Head
Image

To Lower Block
Image

Hope this helps,
A.B.Ames

P.S.
I seen a similar set up but rather than a circulating heater they used quick couplers to connect to a separate propane circulating coolant heater so it didn't have to be near electricity.
'62 Super Dexta, White 2-60 FWA, '53 Terra-Trac GT34 w/loader.

Lost in Sweden
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 39
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Skåne, Sweden

Thanks for the pics

Post by Lost in Sweden »

I will try to avoid drilling into metal just yet! I thought splicing in a 'T' pipe' junction in the upper 45mm radiator hose so I can attach the output hose (20mm) of the heater to it. The intake hose for the heater would be attached to the drain tap on the engine block. Yet another question: if I take out the drain tap on the engine block and replace it with a screw-on nozzle that will take the 20mm heater hose, what diameter is the part that I screw in (what is the size of the hole)? I assume its the same diameter as part 5175, 'Radiator Drain Tap 1/4" at Agriline. So the male end of the nozzle should be 1/4"? or its meteric equivalent?

A.B.Ames
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:46 pm
Location: Wabigoon, NW Ontario, Canada

Post by A.B.Ames »

Hi Lost in Sweden,
Yes, had mine not been drill/tapped already I too would have made up a tee in the upper hose.
As for pipe/thread size for the bottom, I'm afraid I don't know the size off hand without tearing it apart. My suggestion would be to pick up a few sizes larger and smaller then return what you don't use. Also as for a metric equivalent, you my not find one as my experience with working on both so far has found that even if the diameters are similar the # of threads (pitch?) in a given distance are different. Anytime I've got them mixed up I can't get more than a turn without starting to cross thread.

Hope this helps, sorry i couldn't give more
A.B.Ames
'62 Super Dexta, White 2-60 FWA, '53 Terra-Trac GT34 w/loader.

Dunggatherer
True Blue
Posts: 122
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:32 pm
Location: Breezand,Netherlands

Post by Dunggatherer »

Good day gentlemen,

I took the draintap out of my project and measured the diameter.
It seems to be tapered,the smallest diameter 1/2 inch.
I also measured the thread,and it fits the gauge that is marked
"18G 5/16".

Greetings from the snowy Netherlands.
Rob.

Lost in Sweden
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 39
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Skåne, Sweden

Post by Lost in Sweden »

Thanks for the info. Replaced the tap with a screw-on nozzle that seems to fit fine. Now for attaching the heater output somewhere to the upper portion of the tractor. I thought about cutting one of the two 45 mm hoses going to and from the radiator and splicing in a T junction, but that looks difficult. Could easily leak. What is bolted to the upper portion of the cooling system, with a square bolt, and with a wire running to the stearing column (which is itself wrapped in a protective wire)? Is it the temperature gauge? Is that the same as a thermostat? I have read that the thermostat is important in keeping the temp of the engine even, so it needs to be in place and even checked. But if its just a thermometer, I maybe can do without, at least in the winter. Comments?

TOH
True Blue
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:07 pm
Location: Finland

Post by TOH »

The square bolt that you asked about is indeed the temperature gauge sensor. The thermostat (if it hasn't been removed) is above the water pump under the "cup" where the upper radiator water hose is attached. The thermostat is basically a valve that restricts the flow of water to the radiator until the water is hot enough. When hot, the thermostat opens and lets water circulate more freely. This allows the engine to reach the correct operating temperature faster.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat

Here's a picture of what it looks like:

Image

Lost in Sweden
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 39
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:19 am
Location: Skåne, Sweden

Post by Lost in Sweden »

So what does the temperature gauge sensor do? Does it influence the thermostat, or does that function independently? If the temperature gauge sensor simply reports the temp to the dashboard, then it actually can be removed (during the winter) without effecting the tractor's function. So, can I simply turn the bolt and take it out, without it being damaged? (I drained the system).

Supertractorman
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 36
Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:16 pm
Location: Derbyshire, UK

Post by Supertractorman »

The sensor end bolt does unscrew to reveal the sensor slotted in, but, if it has been in place for a long time it can be hard to remove. If it does not come easily I have used penetrating oil to help but be careful not to break the pipe off. There may be some other good tips to do this.
1964 Super Dexta
1958 Dexta
Mini Dexta
1944 Ford Ferguson 9NAN
Ferguson Teeny 20

Dunggatherer
True Blue
Posts: 122
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:32 pm
Location: Breezand,Netherlands

Post by Dunggatherer »

Yes the temperature sensor and dial on the dash are there only to inform you of the coolant temperature.
Removing it does not affect the functioning of the tractor.

The wire is not wire.
It is a very thin pipe,which contains ether (i think),so the dial is driven by the expansion because of the heat.

I would try to find some other way of reading the temperature,if you really need that hole for your heater.
I have seen some diesels overheat,in summer i must add.
Too little RPM was mostly the cause.

TOH
True Blue
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:07 pm
Location: Finland

Post by TOH »

Lost in Sweden wrote:So what does the temperature gauge sensor do? Does it influence the thermostat, or does that function independently? If the temperature gauge sensor simply reports the temp to the dashboard, then it actually can be removed (during the winter) without effecting the tractor's function. So, can I simply turn the bolt and take it out, without it being damaged? (I drained the system).
The sensor is not connected to the thermostat in any way so it can be removed. If you plan to put it back sometimes be careful not to break the cable coming from the sensor. Do not bend it too much or it might be damaged. The inner "wire" or tube of the cable contains ether or something similar and if it escapes it won't work any more.

Here's some info how the capillary temperature gauge works:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt101.htm

Post Reply