It Just dosn't seem right to me!!

[gunner312]

I spent some time working on my 1959 Dexta today (SN 957E34718)

I found that the fuel filter wasn't a filter but only a small additional fuel tank, No innards init.

The Air filter was full of nasty, rusty, OLD steel wool, and no oil in the oil bath.

I'm afraid to look in the Oil filter. (Tomorrow).

Wrong lift pump. (No primer lever)

In additon, on the top of the hydraulic section cover, there is a hydraulic line that runs from one place to another on the cover, (If I could post a photo I would) Strange!

Still won't start.

I bled all the lines and checked the pre-heater and the pre-heater fuel injector and it works fine. How hot is the pre-heater supposed to get?

I held the pre-heat button down for a full minute and pushed the injector button twice, Hit the starter and - No Joy.

in that the previous owner ALWAYS started it on ether, do I need to start looking at a re-build or can I get away with re-ringing it and a valve job?

Also, I notice on the Antique Tractor website they sell a rebuild kit. Any experience with that?

Help?

Jim Wright

[commander]

The heater should glow red hot after 40 seconds or so........check the wiring ...and the push button switch....the switches were not sealed units and the corrosion demons like them......

re-ringing the motor: You'll just have to do a tear down and inspection to see for certain......but these motors usually need new liners (and pistons and bearings, a crank regrind, valve job etc - a complete overhaul) by the time they have worn out the rings..

These days diesel shops have compression testers and various adapters to check compression on the different engines...somebody near you may have one? ......the low tech method is to observe the amount of blow-by at the crankcase vent once you get the engine running.....hard to quantify this, but excessive blow-by = worn rings = low compression..you'll usually see smoke coming out of the vent...if you hold your hand near it, you'll feel a stream of air coming out. Burnt / stuck valves = low compression also.

Compression has to get very low to prevent it running at all.....I've seen them crank and run - not very well - on one cylinder.
I would concentrate on getting it to run first.....and see if it runs well enough for your purposes...

[Brian]

Jim,
It would be easier if you kept all your posts on this subject under one heading. That way we know when we have answered a question without having to search a number of posts.

Once started from cold, a Dexta will always start without further heating if the engine is in fair condition. It sounds like your engine is not too bad from what you say.

Get the heater and spray working and see how she goes, even if you "jury rig" them. It will give you a clearer idea.

Post a picture of your hydraulic setup. If you have difficulty doing that, e-mail it to me at fordsontractorpages at btconnect.com, (replacing "at" with"@"), and I will post it for you.

[JC]

Here's a link to Jim's picture.

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/photos/1586.jpg

[Brian]

Looks like a pressure and return pipework for a second spool block. The spool on the tractor does not look like a standard Dexta fitting.

[gunner312]

I checked over the wiring and found that it isn't as it should be. New wiring harness?

I also checked the pre-heater, if I jump it to power it heats up nicely, but the push-button swith is weak to say the least.

So, now I need to find a new push button for the pre-heater.

I also found that the Atomizer - dosn't. It will squirt a little but then stops and only oozes a small amount. So a new Atomizer aslo. Also, the atomizer is stripped out in the air intake manifold. I can handle making a bushing for the atomizer but before that I need to find a air intake manifold gasket.

As for the hose on top of the Hydraulic section. Still no clue as to what it is.

BUT, I started it today without having to resort to ether. Looks like it does have enough compression to start, if and that's a big if, I can find a new atomizer fitting.

My list of thiings needed is growing longer.

Jim Wright

[blue32]

My opinion is that the glowplug is on its critical end befor damage, if you hold the button over 40 seconds, - and if you pick off the hose from aircleaner and look inside the airintak for check how long time it will take for the glow plug is warm enough to blow up the fuelgas...(the puff) it takes between twenty and twentyfive second to get it warm enough... If you do hold the button for lets say one mimute or so? I am sure that the plug is going to be burn out soon "the wolframtread" in it, after some time.
That,s often what happens, when tractors are going harder to start.
I also did overhauling on my heaterbuttons...bend out around the edge underneeth the button and clean out the "irr" at the contact insides, and do the same procedure together again,
- but ofcourse this litle button is cheap from Agriline,s too.

Blue32

[Brian]

I am afraid I do not have pictures of all the variations to the Auxillary service plate on Dextas, Jim. Some had just a plain blanking plate, others had a single tapping for auxillary services, some had a selector valve that isolated rear linkage and auillary services, others are like this one, perhaps the most common here in England:



Standard valve on Dextas 1959/1960. Should be a flat black knob on the end of the spool below the pipe fitting..



This one has a selector valve that pulls outward towards the drivers right leg. Out for oil diverted to auxillary services, controlled by the main control lever, in for rear linkage again controlled by the main lever. The unit also has a flow control to vary the rate of hydraulic oil flow to the auxillary services or the lift cylinder and so change the speed at which the lift arms, or anything tapped into auxillary services, raise.

The next one is a bit like "rocking horse dung" or "hens teeth":



This is a DAR valve (Double Acting Ram) and is used in applications when oil is required to push a ram from either end. It is used on implements like Reversible Ploughs which rotate at the end of each furrow ploughed to enable the tractor to return down the same furrow and still turn the soil in the same direction.



Plough should be visible here.

I will be going to a few shows shortly and will try and get some better picture.