Buying a Dexta special? in france

This forum is about the Fordson Dexta, Super Dexta and Petrol Dexta.
gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

I have added photos to show the hole in the exhaust where the down pipe meets the silencer. Also a missing bolt filled with crud where the down pipe meets the exhaust manifold at the top.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CXzkaT ... share_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ca35bn ... share_link

This would be an easy fix. I am happy to get a new one and replace the down pipe and silencer. Unless there is a reason to prefer patching it up versus replacing.

Also added a photo showing a small crevice that stands out on the right side of the engine block seam behind the heating element. Is that anything to be concerned about?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CXzkaT ... share_link

Finally a video of me driving it in low second gear slowly. You can hear a distinct higher pitched rhythmic ringing which seems to come from the front fan assembly area. It sounds to me like the bearings for the water pump maybe? The previous owner suggested he thinks the water pump needs replacing and that the heating element doesn't work.

I will test the heating element to see if it glows red.

I wont remove the pump until I have tried replacing the radiator hoses, they are hard. The leaking of coolant seems to be coming from either the lower mid section of the hose which looks cracked on the underside. But also, The leaking seems to come from where the lower hose connects to the water pump housing?, will add a photo of that:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CfZiDq ... share_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CyTToZ ... share_link

The top radiator hose seems completely dry but hard

Either way will try not to remove/replace anything that is not confirmed broken like you mentioned.

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

I would get the missing bolt but wouldn't worry about the leak at the pipe joint as that's typical, even brand new. That crevice is a bit of casting, so nothing to worry about. The pics suggest the water pump seal has gone, when you fix that you can also see if the bearing is ok or not (you can try to lift the pulley and see if there's play). The water pump is repairable provided you can use a press and puller.
Sandy
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Old Hywel
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Old Hywel »

Briefly run the engine without fan belt. If the squeaking disappears, it’s either the w/pump or Dynamo.

gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

Great idea, will check that out old Hywel.

My Action plan is:
1. clean the oil bath and air intake, look at the heating element and the priming pump.

I have been reading up a little on old tractor electrics. It seems tractors of this era generally had a positive ground (apparently it was thought to slow down corrosion). I see the battery on my dexta has the thick positive cable and then just a thick green flat woven strap from the negative terminal.
I am assuming this is the earth strap? and so making mine a negative ground and presumably a later modification?

photos of the battery here:

top view: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EEIk0s ... share_link
negative terminal: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EFslAZ ... share_link
positive terminal: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DoY1ZK ... share_link

The reason I ask is because the way it is grounded affects the way it should be safely disconnected if I am right? so with a negative ground would you move the negative cable first? And we should always disconnect the battery when working on the tractor right? :)
is there any residual current in the tractor when I remove the battery? if there is, should i try turning the lights on to drain any of that (with battery removed)?

it also raised another question. For future reference how would one go about checking the voltage on the heating element? Looks like a thick bit of single core copper running to it. Where would the voltmeter probes go in that case?

Since there are several checks to be done in this area i am planning on removing the whole oil bath, taking crud out and then washing in kerosene? paraffin? petrol?, drying thoroughly, then use any clean engine oil to refill to the designated level.

While removed it might be easier to see down the air intake and look for the heating element glow and priming pump spray without removing them. Will require re connecting the battery while i do this. test pump while shining torch to see if spray is making it there. Test heating element by pressing the heating button to watch for red hot glow.

After fixing what I can there and hopefully a working cold start system I will look at the front end and see whats going on there.

2. The front end cooling system.

Drain the coolant from radiator tap and the other tap where ever that is (yet to locate).
NEVER ATTEMPTING RUNNING THE ENGINE WHILE DRAINED (101 reminder for noobs like me).

Replace hoses and remove the temp gauge probe assembly /housingnext to the radiator return hose housing assembly.
(i ordered the temp guage for a dexta)

which i believe to be shown in the top center left of this image with the square nut and bit of cylindrical protruding pipe here.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BRzqI7 ... sp=sharing

Any tips on how this should be routed to the gauge? what needs to come off to access the gauge side connections? I have slim hands so decent at squeezing into tight spaces, :D

https://tracteurbits.com/en/electrical- ... &results=1
I understand this may not be the right one so took a punt on it as would like to address it while i'm looking at this anyway (slightly annoying the gauge seems to be farenheit but if of the correct type should be ok.

I have ordered the hoses and a couple other pieces. Will try fix the leaks, water pump seal and give the pump a look over.

Put it all back together, refill the radiator with coolant, hopefully no leaks.

Try firing starting it, check for leaks persisting Listen for the rhythmic metallic hum. If persists (which it probably will).

Can try the approach of removing the fan belt. run for a very short period (less than a minute) and see if noise persists.

Shut the engine down, replace the fan belt ensuring the correct amount of tension/free play? will refer to manual I think was about 1 inch between midway point was mentioned there, will figure out what that exactly means along the way.

regarding starting the engine? what position should the throttle lever be in? from 0 t o100% 0 being completely up (counter clockwise). 100 being completely down (clockwise). Should one give it a few pumps while engaging the starter?

That will probably take the better part of the weekend for me.

If noise persists will get back to you chaps with photos and videos of what I saw along the way and look at addressing the water pump and or dynamo. Will be a slight inconvenience if it is the water pump and have to drain it again but hey ho, I would rather its the water pump than anything to do with the engine :)

Let me know if I should spray wd40 on anything while im looking into the front end.

Once all that is out the way perform the routine service oil change and fuel filter change.

No doubt I will have a few blockers and confusions along the way but im used to this kind of debugging process as a web programmer. Its all part of the fun as long as you don't kill the machine or yourself along the way :D

update on the storage in poly tunnel. it is a sunny windy here in the charente. it is less than 5c outside and over 20c in the polytunnel around 35. percent humidity (measured in the shade inside the polytunnel). I have laid plastic tubs and cardboard under the tractor to catch coolant leak and oil drips as don't think its a good idea to contaminate the soil.

I will place carbon monoxide alarm in the tunnel and open all vents and doors to the poly tunnel when turning on the engine

Apologies for all the super amateur questions...

Thanks all, If I could buy you all a pint I would! :beer:

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

It is indeed negative earth (because the dynamo has been replaced with an alternator, which are only made for negative earth), so disconnect the negative lead first. There isn't anything on a normal Dexta to cause residual voltage, but modifications never make it easy to be sure if you don't know what has been fitted. A voltmeter isn't the best way to see that the heater is working, but if when you press the heater button the warning lights become slightly dimmer it means that there is current being used, with an ammeter you would see what amps are going through, but the best test is to see if it glows when you remove the filter (which by the way is a very good idea as many get very dirty from lack of cleaning) and you can then test the primer as well (remembering to open the manifold tap if there is one whenever you use the primer and closing it as soon as you're finished with it).
You've found the temp gauge location, that gauge you've ordered is a repro aimed at the Dexta but very poorly made, try and see if you can find one that looks more like the original one which should be a bit more reliable but a good second hand original one is the only really reliable way, but they're difficult to find and very expensive. The alternative is to repair the original one, that link I posted is very good about that, you will of course need something to plug the hole in the meantime so you can run the engine. The gauge itself is held in place by the chromed dash, and while you have that off you have a good excuse to lift the whole upper dash to check the steering oil level which is under the dash. The gauge is in ºF, but as long as the temperature is in the green you'll be fine, assuming the reading is accurate. While you have the coolant out (the block drain tap is under the fuel filter) loosen the fan belt and try to see how the water pump and alternator turn (don't turn the alternator the wrong way) and whether there's play or not, it's probably the water pump as a poor bearing very often ruins the seal, which is definitely leaking.
For starting I would have the throttle in a mid way position giving about 1000 to 1200 rpm no load speed (this will help the engine warm up a bit as it starts running and avoid one cylinder taking much longer to fire than the others), press the excess fuel button on the injector pump if the heater isn't making much of a difference or it's very cold and make sure the stop lever is fully forward before pressing the button to ensure max fuel delivery. Then use the heater and primer as mentioned earlier and the engine should start in less than 30 seconds. If you plan to run the engine in the polytunnel I would get an extension pipe to put on the exhaust so you can work more peacefully knowing that nearly all exhaust gases are going outside. Diesel engines produce far less CO than petrol, not that it's not dangerous but it's worth having in mind.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

Great cheers Sandy,

Regarding the new temp gauge: I will need to get smarter about buying non oem replacements it looks like. I will of course hold onto to any serviceable parts for future reconditioning if not done right away. I presume I check its reading with hot water with other themometers in the water to check if atleast it functions and is calibrated and to what degree of accuracy. I will do that before fitting it.

I did look at the green light when I tried the heating element first time around after seeing someone mention it on another thread. It didn't dim or flicker and considering its a heating element you would expect the current draw to have some effect there like you mentioned. Suggesting it is not working. Will be great if all that is required is a replacement of that to get it starting ok cold again. :D

I have added some photos of the serial plate which I discovered on the "baffle plate" between engine and battery. Maybe you have already noticed it in previous photos but I thought it might be worth posting here to add any more context to its heritage :D

I'm not sure if its the original one or taken from something else. I am assuming it is original. But we should be able to cross reference the numbers here with other serial codes found around on the rest of the tractor. Its' the first time I noticed it. You can also see numbers have been stamped over

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ELc7yR ... sp=sharing

It says dagenham but the the rest is in french e.g "moteur". I see it says 155 so will look into the differences between the other perkins variants and bear that in mind. I could be reading that wrong though.

From reading this article: https://issuu.com/sundialmagazines/docs/ht6r/14

It seems like it could be one made for the french export market (lights on the outside for road regulations). I wonder if it would have been this narrow from the dagenham factory, or modified elsewhere. From this article If i understood correctly it should have the horizontal bars across the front grille. And a deep pan cushioned seat? anybody have ideas of what that looked like, not sure it will fit inside this narrow version if it does. Will post photos of the seat and maybe you can inform me what the original seat cushions etc would have been on it. Would also be nice to get some of the badges back on it at some point

I have a boroscope that can record video. I used it for other projects. I am thinking about cleaning the tip with alcohol and using it to see in the engine chamber when I remove the oil bath air filter. I will go in gently. Any reason I should not do this? anything I should be aware of if I do do this?
I will upload the findings if I go ahead with it. I know you can take off the manifold if you want to look in but this requires less intervention. I was hoping we could determine to some extent the condition in there and if the ether usage has done anything of great concern

I measured the width from outer edges of the tyres on the back. From one wheel outer edge to the other wheel outer edge it came out as 120cm

Learning a lot each day and really enjoying the process.

A side note on forum etiquette: I am not sure If I should be posting separate question specific posts here or continue on the same thread.
I find it easier to follow a thread than scatter it against different posts but there may be reasons to not do what I am doing here. I have asked a ton of questions so not sure what best practice is. Initial plan was to stop posting on the same thread once I have fixed the leaks and starting mechanism

Also if you need web dev help, happy to lend a hand here or there.

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

That's a very unusual serial plate, probably a French extra rather than a later modification. The numbers should correspond with the ones stamped on the engine and bell housing. 09D-918065 is May 64, and 1550084 corresponds roughly as well. The 2250 reffers to the max permitted weight, but that's really only relevant on the road with a trailer. The usual Ford plate is like this:
Image
I'm afraid it's not in the best condition but you can see what it says; the Major one did have the serial number on it until the Power Major, which used this design from then onwards.
That sounds like a good test of the temp gauge, you can always recalibrate it if necessary as explained in the temp gauge repair link.
Do look at the heater through the manifold before you remove it and then look at it carefully to see what's happening. It should be easily repairable.
This is not the narrow Dexta (Davie is, with an advertised width of 52"), it's a much narrower conversion carried out elsewhere. The pressings on the grills were added in November 60 to all Dexta's not having lights in the grilles, so yours should have them. The seat was like this but with a thicker cussion (the backrest is original, although inside there's a different filling):
Image
You would have a plain wheatsheaf badge in this colour scheme:
Image
this is Super Billy's one, yours wouldn't have the SUPER MAJOR bit. On the bonnet there would be similarly coloured decals looking a bit like the earlier badge (Davie's one, not the best of pics I'm afraid):
Image
Seems like a good idea to have a look but don't move anything on the tractor while you're doing this and make sure it's clean all the time. I don't think you'll be able to tell if there's a problem of ether addiction, but I might be wrong.
I would keep posting here for now as you're basically sorting the immediate problems before you have a bit of fun with your new toy!
Then you'll be able to enjoy a great tractor that will continue to work well if cared for.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

thanks for the info sandy. Yep mine has the wheatsheaf badge on the front in silver.

I managed to find this brochure for a Fordson Dexta Vigneron. A few years earlier than the one I bought but looks like the closest match I have seen online to mine, plough lamp is the same, lights are the same, exhaust is the same (it ends before or at the foot rest), toolbox on the back. I don't think any of those will be original on mine. I know the toolbox is not for sure. The rocker arms are reversed on this like mine also. Which I don't think were inverted for the Narrow dexta, But this ad shows them like they are on mine. Unless It was just common to do that on the most narrow track. The ad for the dexta narrow 1963 shows them as they are on the standard dexta

Pretty interesting and it shows what the seat might have looked like which i think is different to all the ones I have seen elsewhere because it was so narrow. I could be wrong there but will see better when the brochure arrives as the photos on the ebay listing are poor quality.

anyway I bought it to see if there are any more pages to it, can scan it up if anyone is interested.

But photos from the advert can be found here:


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Lw29Sf ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18OG0Us ... sp=sharing

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

A scan would be great, I think it's what's referred to in the Allan T Condie Dexta book as "A Narrow version was also marketed, whilst it was left to the French to produce a 'Vineyard' type". Yours definitely looks like a Vigneron, and it is much narrower than the Narrow Dexta, which only has slight modifications to bring it's wheel track down 4" from the std. width Dexta. The Dexta in the brochure is probably October 60, before they had decided to use the pressings in the grills for tractors keeping their lights in the usual position, but having made Super Major styling changes that were common to the two light positions (new badges and live PTO stickers). Your grills show clear evidence of having had the pressings, which on NP Dexta's should also be off white like the grills, wheels, mudguards, lights (not the number plate light) and seat.
Davie is a Narrow Dexta and you can see what the differences are with the Vigneron and the std. width Dexta:
Image
Image
Image
You can read more about Davie here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8140
The wheatsheaf badge is supposed to be like this one used from 1957 to 1963 (Davie's badge) but using NP off white instead of orange:
Image
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

Nice set of fordsons you have there. Also looks like you have a nice spot in Spain... :D

Looking at the grille I can see what you mean about having had the pressings on it. Can't see any online to be able to put back on so will keep an eye out for them.

Update on progress:

I have a new water pump. I have removed the fam blade. Nose cone and swung out the radiator as one of the bolts on the bottom spins freely and is tricky to get off.

I also have a new set of rubber hoses to replace all the old ones.

I have removed the thermometer square bolt but a piece remains inside.

I have uploaded photos of all this onto the Google drive.

There is a dent in the metal panel where the water pump inner seems to have made contact with it.

So i am thinking to clean this metal panel up a bit replace the water pump and connect the hoses. I also have a new fam belt which I will put on.

I can't see where the water pump seal should go or is that inside the water pump? And if I have a new one that should be inside already in the new one?

I have seen talk of a brass plate I can't see one anywhere.
How do I get the the inner part of the thermometer out? Does the thermometer housing need to come off? And if so does that leave the engine block exposed? There's old grease and dust all around it so don't want to let all that get in if it shouldn't be there

Any tips much appreciated

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

The temp gauge bulb you should get off with thin nosed pliers and a wee pull, hopefully it won't be too stuck. Nice to see you still have your original AC thermostat.
The brass plate is very often missing and it is worth getting one (if you look in an MF 35 section it's more likely you'll find it) as it would have avoided the erosion you see on the timing cover. Refit the bolts while cleaning to avoid dirt getting in as they're through holes into an oily area. I'm not at all surprised that the water pump made odd noises with all that dirt in there, check the alternator turns smoothly and that there's no play in the bearings. The water pump seal is inside between the housing and impeller to keep the bearing dry, they very often leak and there's a wee hole below to allow leaking coolant to get out without compromising the bearing.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

ok regarding the backing plate:

https://tracteurbits.com/en/cooling-sys ... guson.html

is this one sufficient? it looks like what was on the water pump but has eroded away and eaten through, I was pulling off some bits that looked this colour. It was stuck to the old pump.

Not sure if this is brass, I could look for something different online if there are ones of better quality to be had.

I imagine it would be brass baking plate, then water pump gasket, then pump, then 4 x bolts on for reassembly, seems easy enough.

Will have to wait for parts delivery on this, before I can go any further.

Regarding the Thermometer:

I have tried several times pulling with long nose pliers, I pull pretty hard but in the end the pliers slip and there doesn't seem to be any give.
I can keep trying to pull at it, but the only other options I can think of would be either to:

a) Tap it in a little with something, to loosen it then try and pull again (risk being here that I either deform the brass? pin or it goes right in and ends
up somewhere it shouldn't, i don't know what is behind there :D ).

b) take the whole thermometer housing off and pull at it from the inside.

Regarding the alternator:
I think there was mention of not spinning it the wrong way? which way is the right way? and whats the potential damage here if any? :D

Regarding the freely spinning bolt under the radiator:

I was able to take one off and the thread still feels fixed and would probably take a nut when re-assembling.
The other is freely spinning (seems like a common issue on the Fordsons) and so I imagine is pretty useless and will be hard to get back on. I have one of those sabre electric saws, capable of cutting up to 8mm of metal. I have an angle grinder but I am not sure I could access it with that.

Should I try cut it off? and if I do what would i need to do to replace the bolts with new ones? first glance looked like it was riveted on the bottom and couldn't see how you would access the old bolt head to replace it.

Regarding the radiator:
If I took the whole thing off would it be worth giving it a vinegar bath and let it sit for a few hours. Then flush and hose off both inside and outside to finish? taking off as much of the old debris on the front as possible with a stiff brush.
I would do something like a 50/50 vinegar/water with some bicarb in or even stronger concentration if necessary.

Other work carried out:
1. I managed to fit a new heating element. Disconnected the priming nozzle and checked that was spraying, it looks to be spraying well to me.

2. Tested the new thermometer and seems pretty accurate:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... c8yKuBoVaX

Will fit this once I figure out how to get the remaining piece stuck in the thermometer housing.

All in all managed to get a decent amount done, spent most time faffing on with accessing and trying to get off rusty bolts more than anything else.

Tomorrow will have a crack at the oil bath air filter cleaning, refilling. I am hoping vinegar/bicarb bath will sort this out, I know paraffin and petrol is suggested but its easier to dispose of vinegar than petrol/paraffin etc.

Hopefully get the new thermometer fitted, check the steering oil.
Replace the heating element button rubber cover that is missing.

Oil filter will need to wait as couldn't find SAE 30 mineral oil at local DIY shops, it may need to get ordered in, open to suggestions on alternatives.

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

The temp gauge seems to be reading a bit lower than your digital thermometer, but as long as you keep that in mind and handle the tube very carefully you should be ok. I'm thinking that the old bulb is held in place by dirt similar to what you found in the water pump, in which case do remove the whole housing, I would do my best to avoid touching the thermostat as it appears to be fine (If you need a new one you need to get an AC TF3 or equivalent shrouded bellows thermostat). As for the plate I've seen these fibre ones offered but the brass one (looks the same but is clearly made of brass) is the one you want as it will be better for coolant flow. You're going the right way about assembling the water pump. The radiator is well worth flushing, and although not a Ford suggestion it might not be bad to put your vinegar in there to shift the deposits like in the water pump. If you do remove the thermostat housing I would put some in the engine too. After doing this do the water flush as specified by Ford as that will get a good finish. As for the dirt between the fins I would blow at them with compressed air, but I'm not sure if you have access to that; it's a very messy job but the result is well worth it. I would try a nut splitter before cutting as it's less risky, The bolt should come out but if it doesn't you've got a fairly difficult repair there. The right way to turn the alternator is following the engine, that is clockwise from the front. It's possible that the alternator rectifier and regulator might be damaged but I'm not very sure about that. Good to know your cold start system is now working again. Petrol and paraffin will disolve oil, vinegar on the other hand I'm not so sure about, and it could do more bad than good in oily areas. If you do find the oil make sure it's SAE 30HD, lots of people use more modern oils but I'll let them comment on that. The oil in the air filter should be the same as in the engine.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

hey sandy, thanks for the pointers.

The digital thermometer was set to Farenheit and so is the gauge. They were both at approx 150f unless I am missing something. I will bear in mind to be careful with the tube. I know the photo was quite blurry.

Thanks for letting me know the name of the correct kind of thermostat to replace it with should I need it. Googling I have found several that look the same. I am going to leave it in place as it did seem to be working before I took it apart. The radiator got warm which I assume is the warm coolant returning from the engine into the radiator. So don't fix what isn't broken :D

The only brass ones I can find are from India, and delivery is a bit of a wait (about a month). I did find what looks like a steel one on that french site:
https://tracteurbits.com/en/cooling-sys ... &results=3

Hoping that would be ok and stronger than what ever that brownish fibre board is. Unless there is some kind of chemical reaction to factor in.

Will see if i can get hold of a compressor. My friend runs a car body repair shop and he might have one, else there are ones often available at lidl.
Will blow it from inside out as recommended on other threads, if I do get hold of one.

Will do the inside of the engine coolant side with vinegar as well.

will examine the bolt situation closer to get a better idea of how that fixes in place

Thanks again.

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

I was only talking about a few degrees difference in the reading, so don't be alarmed.
The one you've found looks alright but as you say it looks like steel (try asking sand see what they say), I found this one which seems just right:
https://realspare.com/product/massey-fe ... ack-plate/
I would strongly recommend not letting vinegar onto the thermostat or temp gauge bulb as they're both delicate.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

ahh ok will bear that in mind. I think the angle of the photo had some part to play in that as well.

as for the engine oil this is closest I can find:
https://www.farmitoo.com/fr/atelier-fil ... -5l-p19486

or

https://agrifournitures.fr/huiles-lubri ... n-5-l.html

no mention of HD but cannot seem to find it.

Managed to get the radiator off. Hack saw did the job, slow and steady. Removing the rubbers under the radiator revealed how they stayed in and the bolt heads come out easy after that. Will get new bolts and replace the rubbers, will clean off the radiator while it's all out. I wouldn't have wanted to put those same ones back on anyway as they were quite rusted.

Alternator seems ok no play and spins freely.

Will take a look at the thermostat housing tomorrow.

EDIT: there is this one described as hd 30 monograde oil

https://www.carpardoo.fr/product/2360-1 ... UYQAvD_BwE

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

The second link looks like the closest one, but it's a bit difficult to be sure.
Good progress, and with the radiator off it'll be much easier to clean and not make a mess of everything else.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

evening all, ok so I have managed to get the thermostat housing off and the old probe out, the housing and the probe looked like they had rusted together.

So now I am looking at running the cable through the dash, but not sure how I go about it. I have unscrewed the chrome dash and taken the old gauge out. But the probe and the nut around it look too thick for the cavity around the steering column that you can see once you have the chrome dash off.

Any pointers on how to do this? does the probe come off the cable, don't want to break anything so thought I has better ask

gauge and dash:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GIPPj5 ... sp=sharing

probe:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GKdlG4 ... sp=sharing

thermometer gauge type I am trying to install::

https://tracteurbits.com/en/electrical- ... &results=1

thanks in advance

Billy26F5
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

You should manage to get the bulb and nut through, but if you can't loosen the rear fuel tank mounting bolt and delicately ease the tank up just enough to get it through. Do not remove the bulb as if you do you'll be back where you started. Thermostat looks good underneath too.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

ok so the only space i can see for the probe to possibly fit is down the right hand side where the throttle rod is.
Either way I cannot see down there or position the probe properly to stand a chance.
So I am trying to take off the blue fascia. It's all unscrewed and the steering wheel if now off.the throttle rod has a metal protruding groove which is keeping the blue fascia plate in place. I cannot see a way of taking that off.
Is there a trick to it? do i just pull it? there is a little ridge holding the plate captive.
The workshop manual does not go into any detail on this. Just seems to say take the 4 screws out and pull out to the side with the wires in place still. Which is all fine apart from this little metal ridge on the top of the throttle rod holding it in.

I am thinking of using a metal punch to bend the part of the rim around the throttle rod and perhaps allow it to be freed. Unless there is some way it should work without doing that. Which I had hoped there was.

heres the photo of the part I am dealing with:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GzvKcR ... sp=sharing

If you zoom in where the throttle rod comes out of the blue dash fascia you an see the ridge I am talking about

gimiq
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Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2023 10:15 pm

Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

ok got it down by freeing up the fuel tank and allowing some wiggle room. Only to find out the thermometer gauge is too big to fit in the dash. :lol:
It was being sold as dexta gauge.


Going to look for a different one that actually looks like the original if available

Billy26F5
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Posts: 1912
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:01 am
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by Billy26F5 »

You've just seen what many repro parts are like, the throttle shaft key is what is preventing the dash from comming out, take it out but don't loose it or you won't be able to use the throttle lever for controlling the engine. Once you have the dash out check the steering box oil and ensure it's full of SAE 90. I would still think about fixing the original gauge, that one definitely fits and it's always good to have original bits still working. If you are going to get another new one try and get the one that looks most like the original one, although it looks like it could be pretty difficult to find.
Sandy
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gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

hello again, ok so the correct thermometer finally arrived. I had to remove the wires from the oil warning and charge warning light to access and re connect them.

The thermometer has been fitted. The new pump has been fitted with brass plate, new coolant hoses have been fitted and fan and radiator are back on.

filled the radiator full of water. tightened some of the hose clamps.

new heating element for starting had already been done.

put the battery back on, positive first then negative.

check the tractor is in neutral, turn the ignition key to the on position.

no green and red lights from the oil and charge lights.

horn works other lights working, plough lamp, proofmeter light, plough lamp and rear lights.

check the voltage on the battery terminal 12.6/12.7 volts.

clutch down, press the starter lever to check for cranking.

hear a little short noise and then nothing. Now if re press the starter lever nothing.

Any ideas whats going on? have i fried something?

thanks in advance,

gimiq
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Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

i checked the starter solenoid with a multimeter.

the solenoid terminal connected to positive terminal of battery had 12.73 volts going to it.
with the ignition on and the starter lever fully depressed i checked the other terminal for voltage and nothing there.

Now when wiring the warning lights back on i noticed something strange

there was one brown lead going from one light terminal to the another terminal on the other warning light
there was a black cable which went into one of the terminals on one light (green one on right). Then there was a purple cable going from the other light (red light) and down the column. And a brown cable linking the two lights together.

it seemed strange that the two warning lights were connected to each other is that correct?
there was a blue and black cable which didn't seem to be connected to anything
and a yellow cable which looked like itchad been bent over itself and taped off.

those last two cables look like they had been condemned intentionally.

1. have i possibly got something wrong here? it seems strange that that the warning lights did not come on immediately with the ignition

2. i have probably fried the solenoid now and need to order a new one? i won't be able to fit another one until i sort the wiring out with the warning lights

i have looked at the wiring diagram provided by sellers of the wiring loom like agriline. It seems the black cable is supposed to feed power to both lights?

https://agrilineproducts.com/ford-fords ... rness-5015

this is the wiring diagram

it looks like the yellow cable should go to charge light but it didnt look like that when i took the top dash off. unless something came off as i was taking it apart. but the way it had been taped up suggested it had been removed intentionally.

should there be any connection between the two lights?
how should a a single power black power cable provide power to both warning lights?

gimiq
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Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2023 10:15 pm

Re: Buying a Dexta special? in france

Post by gimiq »

with a bit of fiddling with the starter lever i have managed to get the solenoid to do a rapid set of clicks then it stops. Looked like the rubber boot contact above the starter was not making good contact. Checking with a multimeter on continuity setting i confirmed it was making contact after having a fiddle.

Now that I have got the solenoid to make some noise, I am putting it down to the battery. So will get it on a charger (when I can find where I put it) and check the voltage drop when under load.

as for the dash warning lights, I am treating it as a separate issue. Seems like it had both lights wired to the oil pressure gauge in which case they should have only ever come on and gone off together. I can't remember if that was the case before i started working on it. But i do remember both lights being on before it got taken apart.

The black wire doesn't seem to have power coming to it, So looks like I will have to take the lower dash off and check the connections there. The wires are a bit short so there is not much slack for that but will need to see whats going on. Might use it as an opportunity to replace the rubber heating element button as the top rubber is missing with only the collar remaining.

will have to check how the charge light is wired to the alternator and check the related wiring for that

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