Draft Control Spring Yoke

Bill Cox · Post by **Bill Cox** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:11 pm

Well...

I got the plug out of my axillary control valve chest and replaced the O ring. I got it out by drilling it part way through and then tapping it 10 X 24. While the tap was still in the hole I pulled on it and the little devil came right out.

As I reported before, I made a mistake when I removed the bolts that hold the lift cylinder to the case top, but it turned out to be a good thing. This morning I pulled the piston out of the cylinder and found that the O ring that serves as a piston ring was broken into two halves. I most likely would have attempted the adjustments without taking off the cylinder and put it back together without ever checking the cylinder.

It just goes to show what my father always told me is true, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I recommend a full overhaul if you don't know what you have when you go in for the first time.

I located the dreaded cam follower pin and mine is worn 1/4 to 1/3 way through. It needs to be changed.

Here is my current problem. The control spring yoke 957E-546 is frozen to the ram cylinder cross shaft 957E-541. I have the lift case standing with the spring upright at the moment and I filled the hole in the control spring yoke with penetrating oil. I'm hoping that it penetrates the threads. I'm afraid to put too much pressure on the yoke for fear of breaking the yoke on the control connecting link 957E-540 inside the lift case.

Does anyone have a suggestion for freeing the yoke? I need to do this anyway to properly adjust the unit after repairs.

GERRY · Post by **GERRY** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:18 am

Hi Bill i have been enjoying your post , ihad the same trouble with the spring etc thetrouble with this part as with the others is it probley never been touched since it left the factory 40/50 years ago and been out in all sorts of weather, the way i had to do mine was put the cover back on tractor an useing p/ fluid and then heat plenty of it eventually started to move . But it can be very tricky a you have to be extra careful you dont twist or buckle the spring rod. Good luck anyway. Gerry

Post by **Brian** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 8:57 am

Gerry is right, the end has a very fine thread and tends to rust solid.

The answer is lots of heat and gentle tapping and levering with a long bar. You will need the lift pretty secure whilst you do it. At least with the lift off you may be able to get something on the other end of the rod to relieve some of the pressure.

This is a common problem.

Bill Cox · Post by **Bill Cox** » Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:15 pm

Thanks fellows. I was afraid that was the answer. Oh well...

I haven't used heat yet because my torch is on loan and all I had was a small propane torch. Based on past experience with frozen parts, I think I know what Gerry means by "plenty of heat" and I didn't think the little one would be enough.

I saw on Stefan's site that he cut the rod with a grinder and apparently replaced both the rod and the yoke. I think that will be my last ditch effort if I can't get it off over the next couple of weeks. Maybe if I cut it, and then manage to get the yoke off, I can weld a new piece of threaded rod to the forked end. There is also an outside chance I've found some replacement parts.

Didn't those 60's guys ever hear of anti-seize compound

The saga continues...

Tubal Cain · Post by **Tubal Cain** » Sun Jul 05, 2009 8:30 am

When using heat to free the yoke, ensure that the heat is kept away from the spring or you will draw the temper!

Gerald