The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Hi there, please can someone help me by telling me where all the winring goes to the switch and control box on my dexta.
I have a copy of the 2 wiring diagrams available on here already but neither of them are the same as mine.
would someone be able to tell me what colours of wires go where on the ingition/lights switch and also what tails come of the black regulator box to the switch or heater button.

Huge thanks in advance
Derick

Hi If you have five terminal,s on your regulator...this wiring diagrahm you will find on "parts four" will suit for your Dexta.
blue32.

http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/manuals/dx_isf35.jpg

Hi thanks for the reply but I have thet diaghram and it still does'nt match exactly, the ignition/light switch seems to be different.

Hi again Dell. Take a look at your regulator...if it is five terminal,s on it...this wiring can be a god guide for you, becouse it also tell about the colors... It is also a another wiringdiaghram for Dexta with four terminals on regulator, and a another diaghram fit that. (not big different between them) - I have seen it befor, but can,t find it now. But this different,s is good for learn about the Dexta wiring,s. - As I,d tell others many time for learning about all different current circuits, I recomend you to draw each cicuits on one sheet at each time...(to ceep track of)... and suddenly it appear how the lightswitch and components works. You can then even allow you to make your wiringloom better by put fuses and better "earthing" on it too.

blue32.

when you have rewired the tractors have you wired them as positive or negative earth? would it matter to the loom how it is wired?

Yes ofcourse, I think the original Lucas system is good enough when it is well maintenanc,d and with plus (+) to earth, and minus (-)to "Hot terminal"
Tip to all Dextalover,s who want to make their wiringloom in good chape again;
1.Start with your dynamo, will it charge?? after polariz the magneto Field (F) for "hot batteryterminal"?? (to check this you have to pull of the fanbelt - take of both wiring,s from D and F screew, then you have to take litle wiring from the F screev to earth."tractorbody" (and battery has to be mounted the eartcable on too) Then you take a normal wiring from the "Hot terminal" on battery, and hold it on to D screew. If your dynamo now start to work like a electric motor and begin to turn?? then the dynamo will charge after polarize the field, on to your chosen "hot batteryterminal" too. - Polarize the magneto field on Dynamo; take avay the litle wiring you just used for testing... and take a wiring again from hot batteryterminal and hold it about ten second,s om F screew on dynamo. The polarizejob is done.
2.check your starter...how good will it work? (it will not turn oposite and so on) whatewer you decide plus or minus on hot batteryterminal.
3 Start to pick off all old wiringloom from the tractor, and check every circuit for damages...mybe it is ok? or you can buy a new.
4.Draw each of your cicuit when you are started to mount it on again.
5.Seek and learn about your lightswitch - starterswitch - solenoid - and terminals on your regulator and so on.

6.You can find alot about this in this forum too.

blue32

Dell I feel your pain.

Courtesy of blue32:
1. Your dynamo has to be polarized for the hot terminal
2.It have to go a "thicker" yellow wire from hot terminal onto A or A1. at regulator
3. a wire from F at regulator, to F at Dynamo
4. a thicker wire from D at regulator, to D at dynamo
5. E at regulator goes to ground

6.a yellow/white wire from A1. or A to the keyign. switch
7. a red wire from keyswitch to the starterswitch
8. a red/white from starter switch to the small terminal on Solenoid.
9.The two big starterwiring,s goes from the hot terminal of battery through the two big terminals on top of solenoid, and stright to the starter

W59d...yeaah, clever boy who already have learned alot of his own work

blue32

Dell Balallan wrote:when you have rewired the tractors have you wired them as positive or negative earth? would it matter to the loom how it is wired?

Sorry for not so good answer... - I usual wired as original with + to eart. - It has not any affect to the wiring loom... - (if you want yo mount Amp.m.gages) you have to change wiring at terminal,s on it, aspecially if the Amp.m.gages is made for minus to earth... but Dextas does not have this.
-If you want to convert onto alternator charging? you have to change to "minus" to earth and plus to "hot terminal".

blue32

Sorry to hijack this thread-but iv'e also got wiring issues....at roughly 1600 rpm onwards the ignition light flashes very brightly-any ideas what could cause this? I was thinking it could be a faulty dynamo or the regulator/control box (which i replaced not long ago)
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks,conar.

Hi conar22, i think most likely it is your dynamo... can be some who had messed with the polarize,d of it sometimes. check it on your workshopbench, open it up, clean it carefully, and look good at the brushes and communtator. If you have acess to measure and ohm the wiring,s on it, you will know how good the insulation is too.
-Anyvay after this check...you have to polarize it. - p.s. always polarize if dynamo is repaired or been of the tractor.

blue32

Hi conar22,
There is another possibility for this problem, that I have experienced myself on my Major.
You say it is a fairly new regulator.
They are not made to the same quality as they used to be, check this...

With the top off the regulator, to expose the coils, look at the unit with the coils facing you.
There is a thick copper wire, going up the right hand side, from the coil to the metal backing plate.
This wire is supposed to be spot welded onto the top right corner of the metal plate.
It may look like it is attached, but I found that the spot weld broke down, very quickly, from engine vibration.
Carefully see if you can move it away from the metal plate with your fingers or a small probe.
If you can, then that is your problem.
The electrical connection breaks down under vibration or heat (and they do get hot).
The 'fix' is to very carefully re-solder the wire back onto the plate, then try and bend a small amount of the top corner over it, to 'crimp' it.

Difficult to see the problem but, once I'd found it and corrected it, the problem on my Major went away.
Your symptoms sound exactly the same as mine were.

Regards,
Mike

ok,thankyou very much for the responses
I shall check it out tomorrow and see what i can find.
Cheers,Conar

wiring now sorted thanks all for your help.