I am just puzzled as to why my clutch and brake rods are bent? I am sure they would have been designed straight but if they were straight they would foul the brackets for the footplates even more than they do now...
I will have a go at stretching a piece of string from end to end in the light tomorrow but should they be straight? and are there any versions of clutch or brake arms that I might have the wrong ones of?
Does anyone know if you can get new clevis pins as good as the old ones which are good and hard?
I don't know what's happened here but they suppose to be straight. At least they are on my tractors. They are passing just about a centimeter beneath the front end of the footrest.
6o Dexta Roadless
62 Dexta
63 Super Dexta
75 Shilter UT
62 Aebi
The only thing that I can think of is that someone has mounted the foot plates lower than they should be making it impossible to have straight rods any more. I can't think of how it might have happened but it might be worth looking into.
Regards, Frank.
Real tractors don't need tin work to be beautiful.
The only thing that I can think of is that someone has mounted the foot plates lower than they should be making it impossible to have straight rods any more. I can't think of how it might have happened but it might be worth looking into.
Regards, Frank.
The clutch rod is bent sideways quite a lot too to get around the footplate brakets on the side of the gearbox. That is the main offender.
I noticed earlier that the clutch pedal pivot is very worn as this is making the arm kick inwards with the slop. That is not helping and might be most of the problem
I will straighten the brake rods out and get those back on as they should be.
I will then look at the clutch rod and see if I can figure out what to do with that.
Ahh.. That is great and shows just what I was hoping.
You say there is a bush to change. I will have a look in the destructions and see what the deal is before I take something else to bits.
the bolt / stud that holds the pto lever on is tricky
loosen nut then tap it out , then remove nut ...... hard to discribe , only comes off / goes on the correct way easy wen uve done it
then easy to get pto lever , pedal off , i left the mounting bracket on the tractor , from memory .
Some mornings I wake up grumpy, but most mornings I let her sleep in.
tom lad wrote:the bolt / stud that holds the pto lever on is tricky
loosen nut then tap it out , then remove nut ...... hard to discribe , only comes off / goes on the correct way easy wen uve done it
then easy to get pto lever , pedal off , i left the mounting bracket on the tractor , from memory .
The detent spring and ball inside don't fall off do they?
Hi Tomlad and others,
I have got the brake linkages sorted out fine. Those are now straight and back on, adjusted and fine.
The clutch rod is still puzzling me. I have straightened it but to install it I would still need to bend it around the footplate boss on the gearbox casting, even with the footplate bracket removed.
The pedal cannot be the wrong way round but maybe there is another version.
The arm at the front end cannot be the wrong way round either but could be from another version.
I might have to put a bit of a bend back into the clutch rod to get it around the gearbox boss and then put the footplate bracket out on spacers and re-drill the foot plate holes to suit. The rod would then go between the gearbox boss and the footplate bracket so I don't have to bend the rod that much.
Edit: I looked in the parts manual. There are two different arms at the front end one for Live drive and one without. Not sure which I have. The linkage also looks dog-legged in the parts manual so maybe it is meant to not be straight.... although not like a bananna like it was.
Rob
I have just been rebuilding a '60 Dexta and straightened my rods before paint.
At rebuild time, on the clutch pedal side, the straight brake rod went on just fine, but there was no way the clutch rod would go around the casting boss and footplate bracket.
I put a dog leg bend in so that the rod goes straight from the release bearing lever to the point where it passes the fouling points, then a bend in towards the hydraulic casing, and then another to bring it back to go straight to the clutch pedal.
Works just fine and looks better than a banana shape which most rods seem to be.
It was like that when I found it.... & I wish I had left it alone!
Re the PTO lever securing bolt, it is a cotter pin as used on bicycle pedals. it is tapered so it will only go from the back forward and it also has a flat section to stop it turning. Refitting it is fiddly as you need to get the flat lined up with the lever and shaft and gently tap it forwards before securing the nut. I made a mark on the end of the shaft and the side of the lever before I dismantled it so that I could line them up again during reassembly, it made it much easier. If you also mark the threaded end of the bolt before dismantling that helps too!
Cheers
Jerry
Jerry Coles
Camerton, Bath, UK
West Highland White Terriers, Dexta's, E27N's and DUKW's
