Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

This forum is about the Fordson Dexta, Super Dexta and Petrol Dexta.
Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

I now have probably 3 complete sets of AF spanners, stubbies, ring spanners, combination, open ended, ratchet and 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets and a variety of box spanners. Mostly Britool but some king dick, blue point, snail, kennedy etc. plus I have set of odds and sods mainly draper that I bring out when the neighbours call to borrow stuff :lol: You can get some right bargains at car boot sales and far better than the silverline muck! :lol:

Same with whitworth and metric. When I started the restoration I had at least a complete set of each then I got a job lot when I bought a milling machine then my father retired from his workshop at 84 and being a retired mechanic he gave me all his tools. He has loads of mechanic specific spanners too, for tightening up cylinder heads avoiding the rocker shaft etc. I now have sufficient socketry and spanners now to keep a machine specific set at each of my two lathes and three mills in addition to the upstairs and downstairs roll cabs and still have boxes of spanners and sockets needing to be sorted!

The question about AF v Whitworth came up early in the restoration because the previous owners had replaced lots of nuts and bolts with whatever was at hand, many were whitworth. I know the majority of fixings are AF and I have always had the spanners to do it. I also happened to have a metric spanner on my bench once, which was being used to tighten a hub puller which was metric when an over zealous member assumed I was using it on the tractor :roll:

All well meaning however lets move on and concentrate on the rebuild :beer:

Mark
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Mark »

Hi Andy, I have been following this rebuild from the very beginning. I believe it is safe to say that you have grown in your knowledge of tractors, and overhauling metal lathes and other machinist tools, used in the making of your own pins and bushings, or anything else that comes up in the near future. It's been a long time in coming but soon you will get to use Doris a little off and on, and go smiling down the road waving at the neighbors. Can't wait until I see exhaust fumes coming from the muffler, whilst plowing a field being shown on you tube for all of us to see.
:clap:
See ya
Mark

When all else fails, get a bigger hammer

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Cheers Mark

I had to have a clear out this weekend so I could get to some tools. Firstly I moved the Toylander series 1 landrover that I made for the kids out of the workshop, it meant taking two doors off to get it out, anyway, the kids were happy that I had at last finished it and spent the rest of the day whilst I eventually got enough stuff moved to get to my parts washer. It needed a good clean out, so 3 gallon of new degreaser now in it so I washed down the rest of the engine parts such as timing chain cover, rocker cover, thermostat housing etc. I also have a pile of running gear ready for blasting.

The downstairs barn is now cleaned out ready for spraying various bits, once I have the engine parts painted I will concentrate on the tin work, the second hand wings I bought off of ebay were patched, but still they are original and largely sound. One of the patches has replaced the fomoco embossing so I will cut this out of my old wings and weld it in whilst tidying the wings up, some of the fabrication is a workman like but a bit rough.

I have two new compressors, one was my father's single phase 50l which is ready for work with only a bit of plumbing, I disposed of my other single phase for this one as its belt not direct drive so easier on the ears. The other compressor is a 3 phase screw compressor with drier, it came out of a school in London and although its about 15 years old it only has 20 hours on the clock and was serviced annually. I bought a 10HP 240v single to 315v 3 phase PWD inverter (not a VFD) to supply my lathe, I shall use a changeover switch so I can use the compressor instead. The screw comp is about 6HP, and a rather large tank, probably approaching 300l so together with the electric drier will be perfect for spraying.

A bit off topic but here's a couple of pics of the toy series 1 landrover I just completed, only took 2 years which is blindingly fast for me, to be fair it was 90% complete and running after a few months, then I got sidetracked.

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Image

Mark
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Mark »

You've been a busy man. I like the sound of the direct drive compressor the best, with it's big tank it should be just what you need. I have a 60 gal 5HP 220v, and it does the trick for me.
It won't be long until people will be coming out of the woodwork to get work done at your shop. I get that a lot.
I'll bet your kids are in hog heaven with that new rover to drive around. I know I would have been smiling from ear to ear. Did that come as a kit or did you make it yourself?
Keep up the good work Doris will be up and running before you know it. :D
See ya
Mark

When all else fails, get a bigger hammer

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Hi Mark,
It was a set of plans although you can buy a full kit or fully built ones. I did buy most of the metalwork as for the price is wasn't worth fabbing them myself and I wanted to finish before the kids reached puberty :lol: I did nickel plate the the metal bits as a bit of a test, not bad but too patchy so didn't passivate it and painted them instead. It's mainly made out of 2 sheets of MDF and 20mm batten screwed and glued.

It's got two 24v stair motors driving the rear wheels with a couple of large gel batteries under the bonnet (or hood). The kids love it when they can get a turn :) its now resting under a camo sheet in the barn after a hard day with 3 kids and 2 dads playing with it,

Here's couple more during construction

Image

Image

Image

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Quite a lot of progress made in the last few weeks. Injector pump and lift pump completely refurbished by Diesel Bob of Ribchester near Preston. It came back pristine, its still in a sealed bag waiting for fitting so won't take it out for pics yet.

Other progress is mainly sand blasting parts. I was going to take it all to the local blasters but I got hold of a 20+ cfm screw compressor complete with 200 litre tank, a pair of oil, water and particle filters and a refrigerated dryer. So I spent a bit of time plumbing it in properly, a new old stock Norgren regulator from ebay for 25 quid, 9 quid for a gauge to fit and about another 100 on assorted flexible hoses, copper pipe, fittings and PCL connectors and I have the entire workshop plumbed up so I can plug in where I need it. I got hold of a largish blast cabinet from ebay for about 160 quid and half a tonne of fine and extra fine crushed glass media delivered for 80 quid.

Here's the set up downstairs, it feeds the upstairs workshop and the blaster and hose reel downstairs, This has been amended to add a drain tap, but I haven't got a photo handy. Sorry about the pic orientation if its wrong, at the time of writing photobucket shows it incorrectly and refuses to rotate it, I will try again later.

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This is the regulator, it was cheap but had 1-1/4" ports, soon reduced to 3/4". I have now added a drain with tap just before it.

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Here's the blaster, its quite thin sheet and arrives flat packed and takes about half a day to put together but once assembled its more than good enough for my needs.

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So I can now blast most items when I need them and mask off bits I want to keep.

I have blasted quite a lot of brackets and ancillaries, mainly for the impending engine rebuild, but I have also tried the brake back plates, these need a bit more work but came up well surprisingly quickly.

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The inlet manifold was blasted after masking off the heater. It was stuck fast but works so decided to leave well alone for now.
Before

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After, nice finish for paint adhesion. I'm using epoxy rather than etch prime, it adheres better.

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I've also blasted the rocker cover and started on the aluminium engine covers before work stopped play until next weekend. The plan is to epoxy prime them all then top coat in functional batches, i.e. engine bits first, then move onto other tin work around the engine bay.

Cheers
Andy

Mark
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Mark »

Andy, you've been busy for sure! I like the setup you've done on the air compressor. I'm going to move mine as soon as this heat wave goes away. Here where I live the humidity is terrible, and that causes a lot of condensation. Sometimes I let off almost a quart a day. I saw where a fellow youtuber made a homemade water separator out of pvc pipe. I've got a lot of leftover pvc pipe and a 5 gallon bucket of fittings so I'll give it a go and see if it does as good as he says it will.
I'm sure you'll enjoy the new toy for the kids as much as they do. It looks like an incredible build.
Take care Andy and I can't wait to see Doris turning ground. :clap:
See ya
Mark

When all else fails, get a bigger hammer

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Thanks Mark

I've heard of a copper pipe water separator but not a PVC pipe version however as long as it cools the air I can see it should work.

I was surprised that the refrigerated dryer has no condense drain tap, there is a sign saying a water separator must be fitted after it, which I have. So far I haven't had a deal of water out of it unless it is automatically dumping it like some do. I have only just fitted the drain and tap before the regulator so will see what happens.

Cheers
Andy

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

I dropped the main casting into the barn from the workshop above, I will now extract the digit and get this completed - honest!!

I'll post a picture or two when I have sorted out some new photo hosting, I am reticent to continue to use photobucket after the recent picture hostage demands so will look into the best option.

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

The slow but steady restoration continues, not as fast as I wanted as events outside my control have got in the way that take priority, AKA the new kitchen, porch and bathroom etc.......

However I am back on the engine, I painted the block last year, it had new sleeves fitted and the crank ground. The head overall was completed a couple of years ago. Here's where we are as of last weekend, My friend Simon is helping out, he's a mechanic which has sped up the process considerably.

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I'm waiting on a set of rings for the 3rd piston, when we opened the box there was one missing, then it appeared too big, we then realised that it was the wrong code on the box, it was for a David Brown. So even though I ordered the repair kit back in 2012, I called Dunlop Tractor Spares up and they have dropped a set in the post, should be here for the next tractor session this weekend, that is service for you!

Next job is to paint the engine ancillaries, they are mostly in epoxy primer, I just need to blow the dust off, a light sand and degrease then give them a coat of empire blue

Image

More as it comes, don't hold your breath!!

Cheers
Andy

mathias1
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by mathias1 »

Hi Andy,

It's ok if you take on your Restoration step by step.
Remember, the chase is always better than the catch. I feel like this is also appropriate on restoring old tractors.
Fordson Super Major New Performance
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Thanks Mathias

I've done a bit more, here's part of the weekend's painting session, mainly to get ready for engine reassembly but there's a bit of tin work too. Most of it has had a coat of Lechler epoxy primer.

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All sprayed outside, here's the sump and various brackets. Others are hanging around the barn from suitable projections

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I spotted this while preparing for painting so didn't paint the fuel pipes.

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and a close up

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and the source of the problem was the throttle cable, you can see it cross the fuel pipe on this picture just before I dismantled it in 2009

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So I shall make sure the reroute the pipe and throttle cable appropriately when I put it back together :)

Cheers
Andy

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Only a little more done,mainly adding another coat of paint, but I did paint the adapter plate between engine and gearbox.

After cleaning off all the gunk and before the cup brush, sand paper, degrease and mask.
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And after painting

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I'll paint the other side once on the engine, I thought the side facing the engine would be easier to paint before installation

Cheers
Andy

MikesDexta
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by MikesDexta »

Looking great Andy

How much primer and top coat did you need for the whole tractor?

cheers

Mike
1959 Dexta
I'm not retired just re-deployed

kiwiland dexta
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by kiwiland dexta »

Hi Andy - just harking back a bit, the throttle cable is usually inside a plastic sleeve - that would stop it wearing against the fuel line.

Kind regards
Derek
you know it's a classic when people stop to watch.

Les bryant
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Les bryant »

That is the stop cable and they were never in plastic cover from new
cheers Les

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

MikesDexta wrote:Looking great Andy

How much primer and top coat did you need for the whole tractor?

cheers

Mike
Hi Mike, I haven't completed the tractor yet, the tinwork is yet to be done, but as the NP Super Dexta has grey wings and wheels I'm guessing at least a litre for those and probably 3 to 4 litres of Empire blue.

Cheers
Andy

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

kiwiland dexta wrote:Hi Andy - just harking back a bit, the throttle cable is usually inside a plastic sleeve - that would stop it wearing against the fuel line.

Kind regards
Derek
Les bryant wrote:That is the stop cable and they were never in plastic cover from new
cheers Les
Thanks guys, I'll reroute it so it doesn't rub on anything.

Cheers
Andy

Mervyn Spencer
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Mervyn Spencer »

Hi Andy, please can you tell me what pvc piping/material you used around the dash panel and fuel tank to prevent future scratching, as well as the surround of the bottom dash panel with the switches etc. on?

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Mervyn Spencer wrote:Hi Andy, please can you tell me what pvc piping/material you used around the dash panel and fuel tank to prevent future scratching, as well as the surround of the bottom dash panel with the switches etc. on?
Hi Mervyn

I haven't got that far yet, but probably something similar to this https://www.themetalhouse.co.uk/Edge_Tr ... 22831.aspx

I can't see it on their web site, but they sell one via Amazon that sits on 0.5mm to 1mm edges so probably good for dash panel etc. The tank will be thicker on the edges so more choice.

Alternatively, you can get thin plastic pipe and slit it lengthwise. Slitting it consistently isn't that easy unless you have the patent Dextrous pipe slitter :)

Here it is in action, a bit rusty since I haven't used it for a while. It is just an old kitchen cabinet bracket, a few screws, a stanley knife and pile of washers. The washers adjust the height of the blade based on pipe size, the bracket guides the pipe and the screw through the washers clamps the blade in position, with a big washer on top to stop the pipe jumping out. The bit of pipe on the left of the first photo is just to stop you slicing yourself on the unused portion of the blade.

In this case it is slitting standard pub beer line to go around the edge of a perforated metal mash strainer in my brewery but it should slit some smaller diameter black pipe for the tractor. I was thinking something like the outer covering on black 0.5mm two core cable, it should slit cable sheath too.

Image


Image

Cheers
Andy

Les bryant
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Les bryant »

Sparex have the proper stuff called seal instrument panel part no s65469
Cheers Les

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Nice one Les, for about 6 quid that's worth getting for the instrument panel

For the fuel tank, the edge is double thickness steel, so probably about 1.5mm thick, I haven't had the calipers on it but this would probably do it at 2 quid a metre.

Image

Cheers
Andy

Mervyn Spencer
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Mervyn Spencer »

Thank you gents for your input, We have an Auto body shop as well as a Sparex in our city so I will give them a visit on Monday. you have me puzzled about the fuel tank edging or am I missing something.
Mervyn.

Dextrous
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Dextrous »

Hi Mervyn

For some reason I thought there was some edging on the lower edge of the tank, but I'm guessing your referring to the edging on the instrument panel on the fuel tank. In which case just ignore me!

Cheers
Andy

Mervyn Spencer
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Re: Doris NP Super Dexta rebuild

Post by Mervyn Spencer »

Hi Andy,
Sorry about the confusion, I was referring to the, dash under the steering wheel with the temp gauge etc. and I'm not sure it there was/is meant to be some edging around the instrument panel/housing with the rev counter on. Unfortunately I have not been successful in finding some decent edging here at home . There is one more shop that I need to visit but at this moment not to urgent.
Take care Mervyn.

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