The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Hi
I have only recently subscribed to this forum so forgive me if I do not follow established protocol.
About 10 years ago I bought a very sad diesel Dexta to cut the grass in my holiday home in France, initially the steering was awful, I assumed this was due to having a non standard loading shovel at the front which stuck out a long way forward. At the time I was reasonably fit and healthy but with any kind of load in the shovel I needed to brace myself with one foot on the side I wished to go and haul with both hands on that side of the steering wheel.
When I no longer needed the shovel I removed the bucket and the lifting arms leaving the attachment point under the crankcase and the hydraulic cylinders still in place. The steering became much lighter but still needs two hands pulling on one side to change direction, this even with a Woods topper hoisted on the rear hydraulics.
The steering appears OK with no significant wear and with the front jacked up everything moves smoothly.
Do I have a problem or is the steering just naturally heavy? If a problem how do I cure it?
I cannot give much information about the tractor for it is in France and I have returned to England but for what it is worth it is blue with orange wheels (I suspect this applies to the majority of Dextas).
One thing that may have a bearing:- the rear wheels seem too big for the tractor and on level ground it is definitely nose down, other Dextas I have seen are more or less level.
A petrol Fergie T2 with good tyres has been more or less abandoned in my fields, would these wheels fit the Dexta?
Best wishes
phil

Hi Phil
Tyre pressures OK? Have you checked the steering geometry? If there is excessive toe in or out this could make the steering heavy. Is the tread on the front wheels even across the tyre? More wear on the outsides or insides could indicate poor wheel alignment.
The wheel size on the back shouldn't make any difference as my Dexta has quite large rear tyres and steers OK.
Cheers
Jerry

Hi
Tyre pressures are probably much higher than recommended, I had to over inflate them (to about 100 psi) to be able to steer at all with the loader on. Tread wear is even on front tyres with a useable amount of tread left.
Don't know about alignment,the king pins are good so the vertical alignment should be OK, the track rods look as if they have not been moved in the last 50 years. What toe-in should I have and what is the simplest way of checking it?
regards
phil

Hi Phil
An on line copy of the workshop manual is available from the top of the Dexta forum page. This has all the info in there regarding toe in (1/2 to 1/4inch I think) see page 10 onwards.
Cheers
Jerry

Dextas have a notch cut into the front of the stub axle and one on the steering arms on each side. Line the notches up in the straight ahead position and adjust drag links if needed, the job is done, no need to measure the toe-in.



You may need to scrape away a layer of paint and the marks can be quite hard to see, they are basically chisel cuts.

Hey that's great, I will try and find the marks next time I go out.
Is it likely that toe in can make this much difference to the weight of the steering?
regards
phil

Could be grease in the stub axles or possibly the thrust bearings at the bottom of the stub axles if you have had a loader on her. Worst case would be the steering box itself. I would go for the stub axles first.

I hope this hasn't already been mentioned as I didn't see it.
My Dexta was hard to steer ( turn the wheel). After doing a little reading in the manual I found that one could remove the nut that holds the steering wheel on and poor grease down the shaft. This made a huge difference and is much easier to steer now. This must be a normal procedure as there are many marks on the steering wheel where the wrench has rubbed when others were lubing this shaft.

I would suspect the heavy steering will be caused by worn out thrust bearings as extra weight of loader wont help.
I had very heavy steering on my super dexta untill I rebush fitted new bearings now like new again.
Cheers Les

Hi

Thanks for the info guys. If I can summarise the suggestions

1. Pour oil down steering column tube.
2. Grease king pins.
3. Check thrust bearings.
4. Last resort, dismantle steering box.

Any other suggestions will be gratefully received.

How difficult is the replacement of the thrust bearings, I have a comprehensive tool kit which includes big hammers, although if pullers are required I need to know before I go to remember to take them with me. Also are the thrust bearings expensive? If not I will take replacements with me just in case they are needed.
Please also have a look at my new post "Exhaust manifold studs"
regards
phil

I also had very stiff steering, and I did all the above, as well as replace the worn out bushings in my spindles. Bushings are cheep. I use a ribbed tire with lots of air...

But I still long for power steering sigh.......


dave

also had very stiff steering, and I did all the above, as well as replace the worn out bushings in my spindles. Bushings are cheep. I use a ribbed tire with lots of air...

You have a loader or scoop on the front? My other tractor (Ford 850) with a front loader is much harder to steer.
I have a speed knob on my Dexta steering wheel and can spin the wheel with one hand when the tractor was moving. Before pouring grease down the steering column it was a tow handed job.
If I were you I would jack up the front of the tractor and unhook the steering box from the rest of the tractor and see how hard it is to turn the wheel. If it won't spin freely I'd say your box is due for an overhaul. If it does turn freely then try turning your front tires back and forth by hand as see how much resistance is felt.
Good luck.

Hi
All suggestions gratefully received
regards
phil

hi
I can find the marks on my king pin area , as in brians photo but I've never been able to spot them at the steering box end , anyone got a photo please ?
or are the marks only on the stub axle ends ??

I don't have a picture for you Tom, but on the steering rocker arm shaft there should be a line cut into the end of the threaded end, mine has 2 lines still not there yet but not sure which is the correct line, will see when I get to that point. Also on the steering drop arms you will find lines cut into the face of the arm where the washer and nut secures the arm to the shaft. The idea is to line those marks up and follow on with any finer adjustments using the steering rods, again that is what I shall be doing. Have you taken the drop arm off and checked the other side
Mervyn

thanks mervyn
each splined shaft has a cross scribed in it , and a line on the drop arm which I think / believe I lined up correctly on re assembly of the box , id wondered if there is a mark between the box casting (were the seal is ) and the drop arm .
or are the marks only at the other end as I brians photo , think I may be over complicating things ??

my front ball joints need changing so I'll prob be wiser then .

tom lad wrote:thanks mervyn
each splined shaft has a cross scribed in it , and a line on the drop arm which I think / believe I lined up correctly on re assembly of the box , id wondered if there is a mark between the box casting (were the seal is ) and the drop arm .
or are the marks only at the other end as I brians photo , think I may be over complicating things ??
my front ball joints need changing so I'll prob be wiser then .

There are no lines on the box casting. If you centre the steering wheel, at half the number of turns of steering wheel lock-to-lock, the drop arms should be in the same relative position to one another.Then align the front wheels with Brain's marks and fit the steering drag links, adjusting them to that length as required.

thank you sirs
id miss read the manual originally then not read brians instructions correctly
my mistake
set them correctly today , both rods needed lengthening my about 1.5 "

thanx again.

That is some major adjustment