Progress, thermostat & stuff

[kiwimc]

I've been working my way around the outside of my diesel engine:
- new battery leads and starter lead
- overhaul starter motor and new rubber boot
- overhaul generator
- repair leaks in radiator, new set of hoses and drain cock
- panel beat the radiator shroud
- new thermostat (there was none)
- new water pump (I'm planning on flipping the old brass backing plate over to give unworn and non-dezincified surface - is that kosher? )
- new fan-belt

Questions:
- all my previous automotive thermostats have had a bleed hole. The new Sparex one doesn't. (Why not, should I drill one? )
- is there an easy technique for getting the bypass hose installed? Current plan of attack is to have the minimum length on thermostat casting end, lots of detergent, and then try and work it down over the join.
- bought a new temp gauge (Sparex) too. Totally UNEXCITED by the prospect of loosening all the tank screws to squeeze the sender unit down through the small hole. What is the correct routing from there on?

Hoping like heck after all this auxilliary stuff the 'heart' of my dexta is good!

Completely unrelated:
tonight got to play on the major. Drove 1 km down our (mercifully) quiet road to neighbours. Pretty scary in top gear. Used loader to lift and place large hardwood gatepost. Neighbour suitably impressed. Sneaked home (less scary 5th gear, no lights, no cars - phew!). Extra bonus - not running out of petrol in dark, not running out of spark (don't think generator is charging).

[Bensdexta]

Is there an easy technique for getting the bypass hose installed? Current plan of attack is to have the minimum length on thermostat casting end, lots of detergent, and then try and work it down over the join.
- bought a new temp gauge (Sparex) too. Totally UNEXCITED by the prospect of loosening all the tank screws to squeeze the sender unit down through the small hole. What is the correct routing from there on?

To fit the bypass hose, I unbolted the thermostat housing from the front of the head, slipped on the hose and refitted the housing.

Hope your temp gauge has the correct bezel that fits inside the dash panel, like the original. Yes, fitting the sender is a PITA. You will probably find the 'wire' is too long, so you will need to form a gentle coil of the excess under the tank. Then it runs forward from the front lower corner of the steering box side panel, up behind the fuel pump to the thermostat housing - nothing very scientific about the routing! Suggets you tie wrap it to suitable cables/pipes on the way to stop it vibrating around.

[Brian Cox]

sometimes you can squeeze the sensor through but only takes a couple of minutes to loosen the tank and it is then easy

[kiwimc]

Thanks guys. I shall check the temp gauge when I get home from work. Pretty sure it is the sparex S.20385.
... and the lack of bleed hole in thermostat?

[Les bryant]

Before you undo the tank ,make sure the gauge will fit in holder,I got one from sparex Feilding and it dose not fit.
Cheers Les.

[kiwimc]

I did drill 1/8th hole in top of thermostat, so should be less chance of airlock when I refill water side.

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that generator bracket was on back-to-front, and hence generator out of alignment. Several fresh surprises in the weekend!

The front has previously had a heck of a wallop, the right radiator mount hole was at least 25 mm out of line with the left. Attempted to straighten axle support bracket with aid of gas torch. Got horizontal alignment OK, but then noticed the axle pin holes not parallel. Took axle out and pressed old bush out. Looking at parts book I now see the front axle was in UPSIDE-DOWN. This is not completely stupid as the cast in parts code marking is upside-down when axle mounted correctly. I have given up hope with the axle support bracket and bought a second-hand one. Cross fingers it's not too worn eh!

Final insult - after idly staring at the naked bulkhead for some time, I have worked out a previous owner has carved one side down (and welded (!) the bonnet catch pin lower) to compensate for crooked bonnet as a result of crooked nose cone on crooked axle support bracket. Give me strength...

[Cvans]

Previous owner sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

[kiwimc]

A couple of photos: first shows the carved away bulkhead and lowered bonnet catch, compared with my replacement. I presume the asbestos mat originally was not painted, but it was easier to paint afresh than clean the old paint off.



Second shot shows my front axle and the clearances between the support bracket. The spacings do not match those given in another forum thread, but that is where it sits (with or without load)!!?? They are roughly 12 mm front clearance/14 mm rear clearance.
I have removed all the slop from the radius arm ball ends. They are now a 'nice' fit. However, there is no way my repairs at the ball end are responsible for more than 2 mm of the 'non-standard' spacings at the axle pin. I have straightened the radius arms and replaced the arm bolts, but the holes they locate in on the axle are a bit egg-shaped. Is this 'normal' dexta behaviour?
I have had plasma cut a bunch of 3 mm and 2 mm thick washers to match the 'original' flat washer ID/OD. The plan is to use them and shim to about 1 mm tolerance either side. Can anyone see any problems with that?

[Bensdexta]

Second shot shows my front axle and the clearances between the support bracket. The spacings do not match those given in another forum thread, but that is where it sits (with or without load)!!?? They are roughly 12 mm front clearance/14 mm rear clearance.
I have removed all the slop from the radius arm ball ends. They are now a 'nice' fit. However, there is no way my repairs at the ball end are responsible for more than 2 mm of the 'non-standard' spacings at the axle pin. I have straightened the radius arms and replaced the arm bolts, but the holes they locate in on the axle are a bit egg-shaped. Is this 'normal' dexta behaviour?
I have had plasma cut a bunch of 3 mm and 2 mm thick washers to match the 'original' flat washer ID/OD. The plan is to use them and shim to about 1 mm tolerance either side. Can anyone see any problems with that?

Expect you have seen: http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=3&t=1287

Your total gap of 26mm is fairly typical, but your axle seems to be about 11mm further forward relative to the axle support bracket than usual. I wouldn't worry, so long as your axle moves freely through its full range of movement from stop to stop. Egg-shaped radius arm bolt holes prob not that unusual - go with upwards bowed radius arms typically from overloading the front axle, eg with a front end loader or collisions with the front wheels. Be sure that you fit 'proper' radius arm bolts, that aren't threaded too far, or they could wear the lower fork, see:
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=3&t=4222

[kiwimc]

Does anyone know if MF radius arms are interchangeable with the dexta ones?
(I'm just trying to rationalise why my spacings are different to the norm).

[kiwimc]

I think I am slowly turning into a dexta expert. Shame it has to be the hard way...

LATEST NEWSFLASH: it would appear likely that I have 2 right hand kingpins - this is awkward as I think I should probably have one left and one right.

The giveaway is the keyway on the left hand side kingpin doesn't line up with the axle, but points back to the battery housing. The drop-arms (?) on the steering box are canted right back to allow for the different draglink geometry.
I havn't checked fully on the forum yet, but are the drop-arms splined or keyed onto the steering box? Unfortunately rectification of this issue will probably have to wait until I have finished reassembly (the current one) and topped the paddock.

[kiwimc]

I won't be fitting the new temp gauge for a while. No problems with loosening the bolts that hold the diesel tank on - there are none! However previous owner has welded the throttle to shaft, so I won't be doing anything till I have replacement bits.
I have a feeling the temp gauge is probably the incorrect bezel, but may stick it in my 1959 Morris Minor 1000 (if it fits). The white face is a reasonable match to the original silver/white speedo.
My dexta doesn't have the alloy fascia on the dash panel, so incorrect bezel is not a problem anyway is it?

[Bensdexta]

The drop arms should 'cant right back':


The drop arms are splined. Check that the scribe on each arm aligns with that on the end of the rocker shaft, thus, NB the drop arms are not handed, so there is a left & right scribe line. It's obvious which is the correct scribe line.


I can't see how anything concerning the steering box or drag links can affect the fore & aft position of the front axle - that is fixed by the radius arms.

Have you a copy of the Workshop Manual, easily downloaded - it's your best friend?

[Bensdexta]

My dexta doesn't have the alloy fascia on the dash panel, so incorrect bezel is not a problem anyway is it?

Easy to get the alloy fascia that's under the steering wheel, either new or 2nd hand. I wouldn't be without mine, as it keeps the warning lights and temp gauge in place.

[kiwimc]

Thanks Ben. Dark here now, so I'll check for scribe lines in the morning. Still pretty confident I have wrong kingpin on the left, but your photo of the left hand side is very helpful. I think my drop-arm is further back and I'm now interested to see if I can get full lock.

Agreed that the steering geometry shouldn't affect axle pin spacing. Did you see my query asking if it is possible I have longer (MF?) radius arms? I can't think of any other explanation.
I have the downloaded manual, and two genuine (1957 and 1957-1964) parts books. Quite interesting looking for changes that occurred over the years. The most obvious I have found is the 1957 edition shows a sprung (fergie style?) and more bottom friendly shaped seat.

[Bensdexta]

Did you see my query asking if it is possible I have longer (MF?) radius arms? I can't think of any other explanation.
I have the downloaded manual, and two genuine (1957 and 1957-1964) parts books.

Don't know about the fergie radius rods. I'll measure the length of my radius arms sometime.
Don't forget there is also the online parts book, which sometimes gives newer 'successions', quite useful here:
http://partstore.agriculture.newholland ... 97ag119097

[Tubal Cain]

The steering drop arms should both point to the rear at an angle of 13 degrees to the vertical, when the steering wheel is in the mid position.

You are correct the king pins are handed due to the relative position of the keyway

As long as the axle is free to articulate and is not fouling the bracket I wouldn't worry about the relative size of the gaps. As an engineer I would fit spacers either side to take up the gap whilst still leaving an adequate clearance. For information I have fitted a grease nipple to the axle beam to allow me to grease the pin.

Gerald

[kiwimc]

Look what they've done....

Right hand Left hand.

I havn't touched the steering wheel between shots, and this is with the wheels pointing straight ahead.

Looking at the bottom of the kingpins (photos below) is it possible all this welding has something to do with it too? Limiting the travel (??) or is just reinforcing of a dexta weak point??
[Looking from the front].
Right kingpin Left kingpin

Thanks everyone for there continued help and support. I've been gleefully facing each new surprise up to this point, but this morning I'm feeling effed off...

[Bensdexta]

Your tractor seems to have fallen victim to the butchers of Dunedin!

Never mind, nothing that can't be sorted fairly easily!