Bens Dexta - 1

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:22 pm

Hi,
Recovery of our 1961 Dexta has begun-see pic!

I need to move her indoors. First problem is she's stuck in gear. Gear sticks won't move rusted solid!

Please advise best way to free the gears.
Many thanks,
Ben

commander · Post by **commander** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 2:45 am

Ben, if you have another working tractor about, can you jack up the rear wheels ,slip some 'skids' under them (heavy planks , channel beams or the like) and just drag it inside?
Or if you have another tractor and a heavy 'boom' attachment, you can rig a couple of slings around rear axles and pick up the rear and move it.

Does the clutch still work? Try depressing the pedal and giving the old girl a gentle nudge on the bull bar with another tractor or a 'work' truck.
Try removing the selector levers/mounting plate and see if it's just the levers that are froze.
If the trans itself is stuck, with the gear selectors out of the way, you can spray penetrating oil on the shifter rails in the top of box (and everything else you can get to) and possibly free it enough to get it out of gear.

If all else fails, you can try draining the gear box, and refilling, to the top, with an ATF/Kerosine mix ( I believe you folks on that side of the pond call it paraffin oil) and letting it sit awhile.....that would be a bit expensive for enough atf & kero. ATF is about $3 a qt and kero over $4 a gal here. If I remember correctly, it takes about 2 1/2 gals to fill to operating level ....probably double that, or more, to fill to the top.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 6:41 am

Hi Commander,
Many thanks for the advice. Clutch seems pretty stiff. I'll try removing the gear levers as you suggest (we don't have another tractor but could borrow one if need be). Fortunately I just changed the ATF in my car and kept the old fluid. Will keep you posted.
Thanks,
Ben

Post by **Brian** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:33 am

If the gearbox is jammed in gear then the clutch won't help as the transmission will be locked. Try jacking the wheels to make sure it is not the brakes locked on with rust.

OK so its rusty but it does not look too bad from the picture Ben. Its not been bashed about too much.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:42 am

Brian,
Thanks for the encouragement! It looks even better now I've removed the brambles. Wait till I pressure wash it!

Chris Ivin · Post by **Chris Ivin** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:48 am

Hi Ben,

Looks like a good project for the Winter. As Brian says, it looks in good original condition, the lights are still fitted which is quite a rarity and the badges are still there. It looks as if it was reasonably well treated before being laid up. Any idea how long it has been laid up?

Have you had chance to check the cylinder block for damage?

llanfair · Post by **llanfair** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:58 am

Hi Ben
Maybe worth a try , Remove the four bolts holding the gearsticks
and lift of , if selectors are not in line you can use a tyer lever to move shaft to centre. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE
Good luck.
LLanfair.

Tmac · Post by **Tmac** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 3:40 pm

This home brew is an effective low cost (relative, compared to commercial versions)

Others have recommend this mix but add the Acetone. Makes a big difference.

Rust removal you can use phosphoric acid, Lime Away, or electrolytic dip in a washing soda.

Home brew; Use Dextron ATF, the red stuff, then add 1/4 by volume, Acetone, or Keytone and if you must add a light oil also, use what is called Kerosene in the USA or Shellsol a parts cleaning solvent of this type. This mix can be Varied as needed. or you can just buy the best Aero Kroil!

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:49 pm

Hi,
Thanks to all for the advice. Some progress today despite the rain. The clutch does move to the fully depressed position and the rod & lever move. I can move the gear lever top plate bolts but refrained from lifting it pending cleaning off the surrounding crud & better weather.

Her serial no starts 09A indicating she is a 'new style' dexta nov-dec 1961, and has a pneumatic fuel pump. The minimec pumps came in April 62. She has a diff lock but only a single clutch.

She has been on my parents farm since the early 70's, but hasn't run for 15years - it's only now I have the time to spend on her. Before coming to N Wales, I believe she was on a market garden nr Evesham, which fits with the plate on the bonnet saying Coulters of Evesham, Ford Dealers.

Still looking for possible cracks in the block. Will update on progress.
Thanks again,
Ben

JC · Post by JC » Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:01 am

Hi Ben,
The old Dexta doesn't look too bad. It will make a good project. Does it have a fiberglass radiator cowl, or is it just my eyesight?

Chris Ivin · Post by **Chris Ivin** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:58 am

Hi Ben,

It's interesting that it came from Coulters. I knew the firm quite well, I work about 8 miles away and we used to hire tractors from them for our Dwarf Green Bean harvester.

Any idea of the previous owners name? I might know them.

Good look with the project.

Chris

Post by **Oscar** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:42 am

Ah, another Dexta that will have a great story behind it! Good luck with it, Ben! Great find!

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 11:43 am

Hi,
Found the reg doc. My father is the 3rd owner, had her since ~ '74. Old girl was originally supplied to W B Jordan & Son Inkberrow in Jan 62, who seem to be still in business. The second owner was Red House Farm, North Littleton.

What became of Coulters Ford agents - no longer in business?

I'm pretty certain she is all original (what's left of her!). We certainly never did anything significant in way of replacing major components or tinwork in the last 34 years. So the cowling is original tin (and rust!).
All the best,
Ben

terry274 · Post by **terry274** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 2:20 pm

Nice looking Dexta Ben. Keep us updated on your progress!
JC, I thought the cowl looked like fiberglass also but upon closer inspection I believe it looks that way due to corrosion and perhaps spider webs behind the cowling.
Terry

Chris Ivin · Post by **Chris Ivin** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:33 pm

Coulters Garage finished trading about 15 years ago.

I know an ex Coulters mechanic, he works on his own now, your Dexta was probably before his time though.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:26 am

Hi,
See below after a wash and scrub up.

She now smells lovely as I've sprayed her all over with diesel pending moving indoors hopefully soon.
Got the gear sticks off - they are rusted solid. They are now soaking in TMAC's patent home brew.
I've enquired about registering her, after all we will be driving her very soon! It seems that although we have the original reg doc, it must be changed for a V5 and we still have to go through process with photos, casting codes etc, via a tractor club expert. Some digits of the tractor serial number on the clutch flange are hard to read & harder to photograph - can anyone suggest the best way to reveal them?
All the best,
Ben

Meanderer · Post by **Meanderer** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:31 am

The numbers were stamped in with punches. Sometimes the punch didn't strike squarely I've noticed. So it is easy to misread them if not carefull.
There are a couple of ways to highlight the stampings. One is to simply rub over the area with emery paper (even scrape off any really thick paint prior). You can also use a paint stripper to remove the paint to get out that which might have filled in the stampings. Once cleaned, rub chalk over the whole area and wipe off the excess. The idea is to leave enough chalk in the stamping to highlight it. Alternatively, wipe over with some red or white paint and then wipe off the excess with a clean rag. The key being to only wipe enough off so that the stamping is clearly legible. It makes it nice and easy to photograph too.

I saw your opening post just moments after you posted it and like JC and Terry, I thought the cowl looked like fibreglass too! I thought it odd so I looked really close and could see the spidersweb that just gave that first impression of the fibreglass.

Oscar wrote:Ah, ........................... Great find!

Good one Oscar! He's only been tripping over it for the last umpteen years!

Mervyn Spencer · Post by **Mervyn Spencer** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:50 pm

Hi Ben

There should also be a serial number printed on the aluminium data tag fixed to the metal plate that divides the battery area and the engine. This number is the same as the number punched on the flange of the clutch housing. Well thats what was done in South Africa.

Good luck
Mervyn

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:49 pm

Hi,

Meanderer wrote:
Oscar wrote:Ah, ........................... Great find!
Good one Oscar! He's only been tripping over it for the last umpteen years!

Yes it's amazing what one finds under the family's brambles - shameful I know but I was too busy earning a living elsewhere till I retired earlier this year and got interested in Dextas

Mervyn Spencer wrote:Hi Ben
There should also be a serial number printed on the aluminium data tag fixed to the metal plate that divides the battery area and the engine. This number is the same as the number punched on the flange of the clutch housing. Well that's what was done in South Africa.

Thanks for the tip. I had a quick look and you're correct in saying that there is a small ali plate there under the grime. But mine just says words by Ford to the effect that the "..construction.." is protected by worldwide patents, I guess to warn Harry F! Unfortunately no serial number. So it's out with the paint stripper and chalk on the clutch flange.
Just spoke to Thomas Andrew today ref getting a V5 and he needs photos of the Engine no, Serial no and gearbox casting code. I also mentioned that our original reg doc just lists the engine no and doesn't give the Serial no. He says that was quite common on docs for old fordsons. So as long as our Dexta has its original engine he can tie the tractor to the original number plate. If the engine's been changed, we'll have to have a new age related number (I've not been able to read the eng no yet - is it visible without removing the injection pump?).
All the best,
Ben

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 11:06 pm

Speaking from frustration but the gentleman who advertises from the Cornish Tractor Club regarding registrations takes a Very long time to process your documentation.
I had to ring him up several times to enquire how he was progressing and all I got a sob story about how busy he was! Well if you take on offering a service then it had better be good! A wait of quite a few months to get back a simple form that would only require a half hour to complete to identify my Dexta was very frustrating. The price charged did not reflect the quality of service.
The DVLA office in Bristol was quite the opposite, very efficient and the man who came out to take a look at the engine and casting numbers was here for all of 10 mins! My friend in the village waited even longer for a nuffy!

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 11:56 pm

Thanks for the info. There seem to be conflicting reports on the CTC contact, see
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... .php?t=481
Have you a contact for the Bristol DVLA or should I just ring them up to find out what their requirements are? (My tractor is in N Wales)
Thanks,
Ben

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 2:29 pm

Stripped my gear sticks, they cleaned up quite well.

Does anyone know where I can get some better springs as these are badly corroded.
I see from Stephan's pics that the sticks should be painted blue, which raises my next question - how to do this!
Thanks for all the advice,
Ben

Stefan · Post by **Stefan** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:57 am

Ben,

if the springs are still elastic, I would use them. The springs on my Dexta were also very rusty, they were sand blasted and I gave them to a galvanic shop.

Post by **Brian** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 6:50 pm

Ben,

There is nothing wrong with the springs that a clean and a repaintwon't cure. All thy have to do is hold the stick and that tin cover.

The serial number on your tractor is stamped on the clutch housing, not on the engine, so it won't matter how many engines it has had.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Nov 02, 2008 12:04 am

Brian wrote:Ben,

There is nothing wrong with the springs that a clean and a repaintwon't cure. All thy have to do is hold the stick and that tin cover.

Noted. I've reassembled the sticks and the gears are working fine.

Brian wrote:The serial number on your tractor is stamped on the clutch housing, not on the engine....

That's understood. However the potential problem is that the original registation doc from 1962 which we have, doesn't list the serial number - only the engine number. So if the engine has been changed we have no way to relate the reg doc to our tractor.

Today with the help of a friend, we got her out of gear. Here we're freeing off the brakes using a screwdriver on the adjusters, and out she came after 15years standing. Now she's in a shed.

Clutch works and block appears OK but it seems the engine is siezed, so that's the next challenge!
Success - Stage 1 of recovery complete!
Thanks to all for the advice,
Ben

The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Bens Dexta - 1

Bens Dexta - 1

Stuck gears

Effective low cost PENETRATING OIL, you will need lots of it

Update

Dexta history

After pressure washing

Serial number

Road Registration

Gear sticks

Dexta moved under cover!