Stuck Engine Part II

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montanamax
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Stuck Engine Part II

Post by montanamax »

I took off the starter and am only able to lever the flywheel to turn about 1/8" (3mm) at the circumference. It is a hard stop in either direction and there is a distinct, though not loud, clunk when it stops the small rotation. Does this sound like stuck rings or something else? I figure I'd give it a few weeks yet of putting some Kroil in the cylinders and gently rocking the tractor in gear before I take the next step. Thought what the next step is I can't say. It's been suggested that I take off the head but I'm not sure what that would reveal. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Walt Max
Montana, USA

Brian
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by Brian »

That does not sound good, stuck rings would not cause the engine to stop rotating with a clunk. That sounds more like a "mechanical stop" and could have many causes. Have you tried pushing the clutch down and seeing if the engine will then turn? Otherwise you may have to go deeper into the engine with a head and sump removal.

Saying that however, it still could be a stuck piston and the Kroll will eventually free it off. Keep trying but do not force it too much incase the problem is something else.
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montanamax
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by montanamax »

I did try it with the clutch in and it is no different. I'll keep trying the Kroil but I'm beginning to think I'm going to have to tear into the engine at some point.

scoobyjim
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by scoobyjim »

take the rocker cover off and see if there is a valve stuck down.

montanamax
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by montanamax »

I took the rocker cover off but I don't think its a stuck valve causing the problem. There is either a minimum of play if the valve is closed or the rocker is tight on the valve stem. I would think I would see a valve stem with a whole lot of clearance.

So now I have to decide if I should take off the head or take off the sump to see what else I can find. Any suggestions?

Jerry Coles
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by Jerry Coles »

Head first (Don't forget the oil line adapter at the back RH side) as removing the sump means splitting the tractor!
I would remove the front plate on the timing case and see if the slight movement is reflected in the Fuel Injection pump ie is the pump gear turning? IF not take off the pump and try again (Don't forget the inaccessible lower bolt near the block.
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scoobyjim
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by scoobyjim »

do you have the large filter plate on the bottom of your sump?

montanamax
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by montanamax »

I decided that I should do a good cleaning of the engine before proceeding with any other tear down. So that's the first order tomorrow. Jerry, thanks for the advice about starting with the head - definitely sounds easier - except for "Don't forget the inaccessible lower bolt near the block"

And I'll check out the filter plate - I'm guessing this could be a useful window.

dexta roadless
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by dexta roadless »

It was a good advise from Jerry except that you don't need to split tractor for sump removal. If you have some clearancin the bearings that could make that movement on the crankshaft even if a piston is seized,
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Bensdexta
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Re: Stuck Engine Part II

Post by Bensdexta »

dexta roadless wrote:It was a good advice from Jerry except that you don't need to split tractor for sump removal. If you have some clearance in the bearings that could make that movement on the crankshaft even if a piston is seized,
But I think you need to support the middle of the tractor as the sump is a structural member.
Bensdexta - 1961 working for a living!

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