New Member / Buying advice

This forum is about the Fordson Dexta, Super Dexta and Petrol Dexta.
John_K
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New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

Hi Guys, just joined up here.

Just looking for a small bit of advice/info before making a purchase.

I'm going to look at a 1960 dexta but having spoken to the owner who by his own admission doesn't know a whole lot about it, there's one problem that has me a bit concerned.

Apparently the PTO lever is stuck solid so the PTO can't be engaged, the question is are there any likely causes for this and what are the chances that it could need major work? How long is a piece of string I know :roll:

I'm a complete newbie to tractors and honestly don't know that much about them, I'm an aircraft engineer by trade and spent a few years working on gas generators too so I've no problem doing the work and learning as I go its just I'd like to know what I may be facing into before I commit to buying it.

It'll be a bit of a project and long term I'd like to use it to do a bit of topping as we've nearly 3 acres here and it's a bit out of control.

Thanks in advance.

John_K
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

Well a purchase has been made, I'll get some photos up when I get it home, needs some work but should be a bit of a learning experience. :D

fenhayman
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by fenhayman »

I do admire people who make quick decisions.

kiwiland dexta
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by kiwiland dexta »

Working on these machines is remarkably easy for a person with some mechanical know how and curiosity!
Buy a workshop manual, some axle stands and a good jack or two and buy or borrow a set of imperial tools.
All parts are easy to buy from a variety of companies including Ford/New Holland. The original part numbers if you find a parts diagram are replaced with modern equivalents but they are available!
I will upload and attach the relevant section from the manual for the PTO and you can start planning!
Possibly the shifter fork has worn or jumped out of its recess in the sliding gear.
Be great to see some photos of your purchase and progress! :beer:
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you know it's a classic when people stop to watch.

John_K
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

Thanks,

I'd found the workshop manual online alright but never though to look in the parts catalog, that first picture is perfect to see whats going on.

Having had a brief look at it today after it arrived home the pto is turning at the moment with the clutch up, I tried putting some resistance again it with a bit of a stick to see if it would stop but it just keeps on spinning so its possible that it's stuck on. I've a photo below of the position of the lever, not sure if that's the on or off position. I probably need to get my hands on an operators manual as well :D

This is her anyway, not pretty by any means and needs a good bit of tiding and hopefully nothing horrible lurking underneath, I'll get some more photo's when I get a few parts and give it a good going over to see what it needs.

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Les bryant
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Les bryant »

Lever is back for engage , forward for Neutral Cheers Les .

mathias1
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by mathias1 »

John_K wrote:
Sun May 17, 2020 9:51 pm
Thanks,

I'd found the workshop manual online alright but never though to look in the parts catalog, that first picture is perfect to see whats going on.

Having had a brief look at it today after it arrived home the pto is turning at the moment with the clutch up, I tried putting some resistance again it with a bit of a stick to see if it would stop but it just keeps on spinning so its possible that it's stuck on. I've a photo below of the position of the lever, not sure if that's the on or off position. I probably need to get my hands on an operators manual as well :D

When the pto keeps turning, no matter what you do with the clutch... You probably have a live drive and the pto plate is sticky.
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John_K
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

Just an update on this,

I solved the PTO issue, it was just the selector handle stuck from rust and lack of use, I took it out of the rear axle and separated it on the bench eventually with the help of some plusgas and a bit of heat it loosened up it bit, it was well stuck though. I've it all cleaned up now and reinstalled and its working perfectly, unfortunately it doesn't have live drive but I'll just have to live without it.

So far I've changed the fan belt, radiator cap, steering wheel, temp gauge, rear axle oil, exhaust manifold and the air intake filter.

Have a new waterpump, hose kit, fuel tank to lift pump line, and injector nozzles on the way. Shouldn't need much more after that.

This forum has been very useful for information, I haven't done much posting but I've been doing a lot of reading.

kiwiland dexta
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by kiwiland dexta »

Isn't it great being able to fix issues yourself...just try that with a modern machine!
Well done, keep the photos coming so we can admire your work!
you know it's a classic when people stop to watch.

Jerry Coles
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Jerry Coles »

One addition I would suggest ti to add a External Hydraulic Return to enable Hydraulic implements such as a Log Splitter.
This is what I did on my Dexta. It just requires a hole drilled and tapped into the Filler plug on the rear axle.
If you need a picture then message me with your email address or search here on the forum.
I would also consider updating the electrics for use on the road ie Idicators and brake lights and possibly trailer electrics.
This info can be found at the top of the Dexta page.
Cheers and enjoy your Dexta, mine is in weekly use.
Jerry
Jerry Coles
Camerton, Bath, UK
West Highland White Terriers, Dexta's, E27N's and DUKW's

Les bryant
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Les bryant »

just use a 2inch bsp reducing bush maybe 2 x 3/4 inch cheers Les.

Brian Cox
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Brian Cox »

HI John, ten years ago I remember saying to myself "that's it, won't need much else!" don't kid yourself, it's never ending :oops:

John_K
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

Brian Cox wrote:
Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:38 pm
HI John, ten years ago I remember saying to myself "that's it, won't need much else!" don't kid yourself, it's never ending :oops:
I know, its already started to go from not needing much else to "sure when I have it apart I better do that too" :lol:


So now I've pulled it around to the "garage" to get a bit of work done.

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So questions first, is this bar supposed to be here, it sits higher than the battery tray and forces the battery forward and causes it to interfere with the throttle linkage.

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This is also hanging underneath at the rear of the engine block??

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Have a box of bits here ready to go on,

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New water pump as the seal was gone on the old one, said I'd get new hoses as well, the top hoses for the radiator were butchered a bit. The radiator itself is fairly new and in good condition so that's fine. I also got new injector nozzles as the old ones are in a terrible state, just need to get some washers before I get them done.

You can see whoever mounted the radiator didn't do a great job and then butchered the hoses to suit.

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Now that I've the nose cone off I'm thinking that I can't really put it back on it the state that its in, so I'm going to try and tidy it up as best I can and give it and the bonnet a lick of paint. Somebody has gone mad with filler in the past though so could be interesting.

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Old Hywel
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Old Hywel »

The bar through the battery box was probably supporting a cab at one time.

Mervyn Spencer
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Mervyn Spencer »

Looks like you have had a later model engine fitted, it would be interesting to see what the engine number is. You should see it on the engine block at the top just above the machical injector pump.
Mervyn.

John_K
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

I forgot to mention actually that after I found the chassis number under several layers of paint that its showing as a 1962. There is a good chance the engine is not original either, I'll check the engine number now in a while. I seen the thread about the date codes.

The pump on this is the mechanical governor rather than the pneumatic, don't know if that would tie in with 1962?

I had a look at the injectors yesterday and fitted the new nozzles,

I reckon this one could be original, had simms part number on it.

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To be honest the injectors probably need a complete overhaul rather than just new nozzles but it'll do for now.

Just need to put the cooling system back together now and I'll start it up and see if its any better.

I did notice that where the waterpump attaches to the front casing is very badly corroded.

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I'm thinking of just covering this with a plate to stop it getting any worse and potentially wearing through the casing.

I've also ordered a new fuel tap as the current one is leaking badly, that fuel line to the lift pump from the tank is still leaking despite being a new part :? Also have a new front axle pivot pin and bushing on the way to as mine are in poor shape. After that I'm going to tidy up the wiring a bit as I'm not happy with its current state, then we should be good for another little while.

mathias1
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by mathias1 »

John_K wrote:
Tue Jun 09, 2020 9:53 pm


I had a look at the injectors yesterday and fitted the new nozzles,

I reckon this one could be original, had simms part number on it.

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To be honest the injectors probably need a complete overhaul rather than just new nozzles but it'll do for now.

John,
fitting new nozzles is one thing, but they will need adjustment on the cap nut. By turning this nut you will get to the correct opening pressure of the injector. You will need a test unit to do this. If you are not familiar with this, you better go to a shop or someone who has done this before.

On the old injectors you will see that pin sitting inside is difficult to remove. You might find it interesting trying to remove this and see how an injector works. I did put the pin into the vice and did use a screw driver as a lever to get it apart.
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mathias1
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by mathias1 »

mathias1 wrote:
Tue Jun 09, 2020 10:40 pm
John_K wrote:
Tue Jun 09, 2020 9:53 pm


I had a look at the injectors yesterday and fitted the new nozzles,

I reckon this one could be original, had simms part number on it.

Image

Image

To be honest the injectors probably need a complete overhaul rather than just new nozzles but it'll do for now.

John,
fitting new nozzles is one thing, but they will need adjustment on the cap nut. By turning this nut you will get to the correct opening pressure of the injector. You will need a test unit to do this. If you are not familiar with this, you better go to a shop or someone who has done this before.

On the old injectors you will see that pin sitting inside is difficult to remove. You might find it interesting trying to remove this and see how an injector works. I did put the pin into the vice and did use a screw driver as a lever to get it apart.

Make sure that when you assemble the injectors you don't scratch the mating surfaces.
Fordson Super Major New Performance
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major

EddieJ
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by EddieJ »

John_K wrote:
Tue Jun 09, 2020 9:53 pm

To be honest the injectors probably need a complete overhaul rather than just new nozzles but it'll do for now.

Just need to put the cooling system back together now and I'll start it up and see if its any better.

I did notice that where the waterpump attaches to the front casing is very badly corroded.

Image

I'm thinking of just covering this with a plate to stop it getting any worse and potentially wearing through the casing.
I'm sure I have on old post around somewhere on this.
There should be a brass plate between the water pump and the timing cover.
Same was on ours, we used liquid metal to fill the low spots then made our own brass plate to stop the water contact with the timing cover.

As for the injectors, tbh its a specialist job to set the pressures, find a local diesel specialist and they should fully refurb them. When i did ours only one needed a new nozzle

Rich
-------------------------------------------------------
1962 Fordson Super Dexta (since 1970 ish)
Our workhorse currently undergoing ovehaul
-----------------
David Brown Cropmaster - is in many pieces as it has been for 30 years

blackbob
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by blackbob »

That roll-bar doesn't look very substantial, looks more like it is off some small Kubota, or perhaps home-made? To be correct it should have an official plate on it, although I've never heard of anyone getting in trouble for having an incorrect or missing roll-bar or safety cab. :wink:
1440276 - 1957 - working
1335674 - err - one day..
Claeys combine M103 - 1963 703129 - working
Ford 7710 2wd, 1983 - working

The Fordson Tractor Pages. Built to be relied on.

MikesDexta
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by MikesDexta »

When fitting your hoses a couple of tips I can give you are:

1. With the rad off, twist the bottom hose away from the fan belt to avoid it cutting a groove in the hose. This is a bit tricky but doable.
2. Also make sure the rubber pads on the bottom of the rad are ok. If they are still there they are likely to be rock hard and need replacing.

Re the anti roll bar, it needs removing/replacing. Not only is it wrong for the model but it may not work! Also with the hydraulic lift arms raised half way check that you can fully turn the LH levelling box. This can be a real problem if you intend to plough with an anti roll bar fitted, I talk from experience :eyes:

She looks good though, I've seen far worse.

cheers

Mike
1959 Dexta
I'm not retired just re-deployed

John_K
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by John_K »

Been a while since I checked in here, I though I'd taken more photos of what I'd done but just looked at my phone and I obviously didn't.

I made up a plate to go behind the waterpump myself too, just from steel so won't last forever but its thick enough to last a few years.

I probably will get the injectors done properly at some stage but its running ok for the moment, I replaced the fuel line from the fuel tap to the lift pump as well as the tap itself and now with no leaks and the new injector nozzles its very easy to start even without the glow plug setup working at all.

The fuel line isn't exactly the best fit, I need to tidy that up a little bit.
Image2020-06-18_09-42-37 by John Kearns, on Flickr

And the fuel tap which for the time being isn't leaking.
ImageIMG_20200617_212032 by John Kearns, on Flickr

I also re done some of the wiring, changed all the cable from the battery and to the starter, its not a brilliant job but its a lot safer than it was, I just need to wire the lights to my satisfaction now and it'll be fine. Have the charging light wired in but still need to get a light and wire in the oil pressure warning, I did check the switch with a multimeter and it seems to be working, I probably should check the oil pressure with a gauge at some stage too.

My father finished with the bonnet and nose cone, they're presentable rather than perfect but I happy enough that they're all the one colour and not full of filler anymore. I also just gave the grills a lick of silver paint that I had lying around.

ImageIMG_20200628_202402 by John Kearns, on Flickr

ImageIMG_20200702_092623 by John Kearns, on Flickr

Panel gaps range between non existent to as wide as a gate. The fitting still needs a bit of a tweak but this thing needs to be functional rather than pretty, its not a full restoration, at least not yet :D

Thanks for the tip on the coolant hose, I have it now so that there is clearance between it and the fan, its still a bit close for comfort though.

With regard to the roll bar, yes, it looks to be a home made job, it actually goes down through the mudguards and is welded to the frame that they are bolted on with, so its essentially useless. It will be going and it'll be replaced with a proper one before I actually go to do any real work with her.

Also someone asked about the engine there a while ago, I finally looked at it properly, for some reason I couldn't find the engine number but I was looking in the completely wrong place. The engine number itself starts with 16, which I'm sure I read somewhere means this could be a super dexta engine??? can't seem to find where I read that again though so may not be accurate. It does have a mechanical governor as well though.

Also the date code on the engine is N82, which I believe means October 8th, 1962.

Its nearly at the stage now where its usable, I do think I have a problem with the lift arms, I think they aren't going up fully, the lever has to be brought up past the stop to get them to their highest point, I need to do a bit more research on it to be honest.

Billy26F5
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Billy26F5 »

Hi John,
The fuel pipe actually goes the other way round.
16xxxxx does suggest a Super Dexta engine.
Sandy
ImageImageImage

kiwiland dexta
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by kiwiland dexta »

Those fan blades look a bit interesting like they may have been altered to clear the leaning radiator!
you know it's a classic when people stop to watch.

Jerry Coles
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Re: New Member / Buying advice

Post by Jerry Coles »

No firewall between Engine and battery either.
Jerry Coles
Camerton, Bath, UK
West Highland White Terriers, Dexta's, E27N's and DUKW's

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