How to change oil pan gaskets?

[IlkkaV]

It was long day to remove oil pan from my super dexta. It was difficult to find two long bolts at a rear of oil pan. I replaced rear crankshaft rope seal, but oil is still leaking huge amount when engine is running. Looks like oil pan rear rope seal is broken and needs to be fixed. Is it possible to change these rope seals when motor is standing correctly? I found some instructions from youtube and there was engine standing upside down. Hope it's possible, because I don't have any toos to turn around engine.

BR
Ilkka

[Billy26F5]

I think you'll need to remove the engine for this, remember to soak the seals in oil for at least half an hour before fitting them, also make sure everything is clean. The rope should protrude 1/8" from the seal retainer and the sump on either side.
Sandy

[Emiel]

Hi,

Sandy is right. You need to split tractor at the clutch housing, remove clutch and flywheel ringer to the oil seal housing.

It is quite a job, but one can do it with basic tools and common sense. Can’t remember whether the back plate should come of or not, but that isn’t the problem when you’ve split it.

Please take care with the heavy parts. One should replace the pilot bearing when reassembling the tractor, cheap part and a new one can save a lot of trouble. Also check clutch when you’re already there.

Rgds emiel

[IlkkaV]

Hi!

Actually motor is hanging on the chains, but how it is easy to change those rope seals and paper seal? Youtube video shows that motor is turned upside down and that might be difficult for my case.

BR
Ilkka

[Emiel]

Hi,

Doesn’t need to be upside down.

Regards Emiel

[IlkkaV]

Thanks! Do not need to drain coolant away today evening.

This is great forum to get help for any questions!

BR
Ilkka

[Bluebilly]

If you have a look at 'Bundy Bears Shed' on Youtube he does a great video on changing rope seals....not on a Dexta, but the principle is the same.

I've done them on a DB 880 and 990 and its easy enough.

[IlkkaV]

Thanks again for perfect advices!

One more question. I've got gasget seal set which included two rope seals, one is longer than other. Looks like I need to cut longer one. Is it correct?

BR
Ilkka

[Billy26F5]

Both seals must be cut leaving 1/8" protruding once fitted. Remember to soak the seals in oil for at least half an hour before assembly.
Sandy

[IlkkaV]

Yesterday I get to change oil pan gasgets. Today I fill motor oil, coolant and tried to start engine. It was hard to rotate engine. Engine started when I helped with other tractor to get more amps to the Dexta. Engine running maybe half minute and after that it went down. I checked the fuel line and it looks ok. Second try was maybe one minute with almost full engine speed and same symptom but also little steaming out of the engine oil filling gap and sounds like engine was overloaded at the end of running. Sounds like there is something wrong with engine lube oil system, or would it be problem for coolant system (engine temperature gauge was on low side? Do anyone have ideas what might be the problem?

[mathias1]

I don't suspect that the coolant wil be a problem.
See if fuel supply and oil pressure are alright.

[IlkkaV]

Fuel supply was ok. How I can easily check the oil pressure? Engine sounds like it was going stuck before it stopped. When I earlier remove oil pan I saw that strainer was bended, looks like the oil suction pipe was not earlier in correct position. Now I have plan to remove oil strainer and check if strainer and suction pipe is in correct position.

Hope I did not done any stupid things for my Dexta!

BR
Ilkka

[Billy26F5]

If the oil pressure is seriously bad the green light will illuminate, but to be on the safe side remove the switch and fit a pressure gauge to see if the pressure is within the good limit of aprox 40 psi.
Sandy

[IlkkaV]

Unfortunately oil pressure light bulb was broken. I opened just oil pan strainer, screen was bended like oil suction pipe was maybe hitted when I was installing oil pan and motor together. I think screen was blockin oil to the oil suction pipe. Also there was small particles bronze... Looks like engine was running without oil.. I don't know what to do, trying to save some money to do things by myself but now I get fatal problem. What should be the next steps? Is it ok try to rotate engine by hand or what?

BR
Ilkka

[Billy26F5]

I'm afraid you're in for a major overhaul, you'll enjoy it very much, but make sure everything is clean before reassembly and use plenty of new oil.
Sandy

[IlkkaV]

Would it be possible try to turn engine by hand to check if it's totally stuck? Or is there some risk for that?

BR
Ilkka

[IlkkaV]

One more thing. I didn't soak the rope seals with oil. Could it be a reason for this problem?

[Billy26F5]

Try turning by hand by all means, but if it's at all stiff you won't be able to run (you'll have a better idea if you remove the injectors so you don't work against compression). The seals do need soaking, but you won't be able to run if there were bronze filings in the sump until you find where they came from.
Sandy

[IlkkaV]

Try turning by hand by all means, but if it's at all stiff you won't be able to run (you'll have a better idea if you remove the injectors so you don't work against compression). The seals do need soaking, but you won't be able to run if there were bronze filings in the sump until you find where they came from.
Sandy

Engine rotating like normal by hand, so looks like it is not fully stuck. There might be also possibility that material which I founded yesterday might be from cork seal. I will take more samples and check what it is.

[IlkkaV]

Try turning by hand by all means, but if it's at all stiff you won't be able to run (you'll have a better idea if you remove the injectors so you don't work against compression). The seals do need soaking, but you won't be able to run if there were bronze filings in the sump until you find where they came from.
Sandy

Engine rotating like normal by hand, so looks like it is not fully stuck. There might be also possibility that material which I founded yesterday might be from cork seal. I will take more samples and check what it is.

By the way I didn't mentioned rope seal. I mean cork seal between oil sump and engine block (both end). My mistake to wrote rope seals! Sorry for that. Actually I don't have rope type of seal. I ordered special type seal pack like this: (https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outl ... reserved=0)

[Billy26F5]

That seal should be fine. Be sure to check that it is cork fragments in the sump, if it is reassemble and check oil pressure with a gauge.
Sandy

[Jerry Coles]

Here's a picture of the adapter I used when I first ran my new engine: https://drive.google.com/file/d/133e8Sa ... sp=sharing There are other pictures of interest to Dexta owners there also.
Cheers
Jerry

[IlkkaV]

Thanks for the picture! Is that connection size 1/4" NTP? Hard to find from finland any inch size things.

Looks like mainly small particles are cork in the sump. Atleast with gas torch almost all was burned away. When I opened again oil pan, I found loosen connection for oil suction pipe to the oil pump. Would it be a reason that engine didn't get enough oil?

One more question, how much it will take time to get oil pressure for the suitable level during the start up?

BR
Ilkka

[Billy26F5]

The loose pipe wouldn't help, it will take some 10 seconds for the pressure to rise because the filter has to be filled first, after that less than a second in normal use. Good to see it wasn't brass after all! to find the thread you'll have to measure your switch and then look in the right thread sheet for the right size (it will be imperial).
Sandy

[Jerry Coles]

This is the sort of adapter you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121860141222 ... 2JEALw_wcB
If I have a look in my Barn I'm sure I will find a similar item for you Message me with your postal address and I'll see what I can do.
Cheers
Jerry