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Front axle problems
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 5:31 pm
by Ian
The front axle on our 5600 tractor looks like there is something quite wrong with it. The whole thing has dropped about an inch.
the other side looks like this
Unfortunately we are using this thing every day, so I don't really have time to take it apart and wait around ordering bits, or if this is a job I can do myself. What most likely has gone wrong ? bearing failed ? And what would you guys think I would need to buy/replace.
Front Axle Problems
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 6:19 pm
by River
Ian,
You need a spindle repair kit, X2, remove the spindle, heat the bushes till red then allow to cool, they should then drop out,remove the thrust(bottom bearing) new spindle bushes when fitted will need to be reamed, you may need new spindles-kingpins call them what ever, might get these via gold value at NH dealers. VAP do them also. Could take 3-4 hrs if things ok and you have the tools.
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:01 pm
by Ian
Would i need new spindles as well ?
Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:26 am
by River
The offside one looks as if it will.
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:09 am
by super6954
Hi Ian
It looks to me like the one thats poking up an inch might need a new axle tube as well if its worn past the outer of the bushings. from the picture it looks bad.
you wont know until its apart and see if the hole the bushing goes in is worn.
Also is it worn at the bottom where the trust bearing fits. It will be steering with the weight of the tractor on it. The bearing would normally take that force and thats disintergrated causing the inch difference

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The hard part of this will be the reaming as I have never come across a farm workshop that has one. it is a special tool that you would find in an engineering workshop or dealership if you are lucky . if you have one on the farm and the skill to use it you are a lucky man indeed

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I hate those jobs in my trade that come with the sentence "I cant be with out the tractor for more than a day".
It means the jobs going to be a pig as everything will go wrong and it' ll be down 2 days or a week

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Something will be messed up with extra parts not being on the shelf then getting delayed on next day delivery.
The best ones are the freight companys that manage to loose the last part in stock in the country

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I could Write a comical book about this stuff when I retire

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good luck.
Regards Robert
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:16 am
by Kiwi Kev
Ian
If you can't be without your tractor for more that a day,
you could go to a wrecker/dismantler and get a good second hand one and then only have to change it over.
Kiwi Kev
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:02 pm
by super6954
Kiwi Kev wrote:Ian
If you can't be without your tractor for more that a day,
you could go to a wrecker/dismantler and get a good second hand one and then only have to change it over.
Kiwi Kev
Thats a good idea kev as long as they are not one of those parts that are all the same like the ones on a major. all worn out

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The other thing is that some wreckers in Canada have re built units on the shelf and do exchange on stuff like that. I dont no if any of the guys on his side of the pond do it though

.
Regards Robert
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 6:43 pm
by Ian
Hi guys, thanks for the replies ! The trouble for us is, we only really have 3 tractors, and one is a fordson power major. The tractor is going to have to be taken out of service for a while anyway because the clutch is going on it. Was mowing a few days ago and it was slipping a fair bit, so really don't think it's going to last much longer. Strangely the steering still feels really light, although with power steering don't really notice anyway.
What is reaming ?
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 11:30 pm
by super6954
Hi Ian
Sounds like you have a few days with her out on sick leave then. i guess like you say it solves the problem. I hope you get away with the clutch replacement not being to expensive.
Reaming is the process of using a Reamer. This is a cylinderical tool with either fixed or adjustable cutters on the outside. it is then turned down the bushing when it is fitted to the axle. This then removes precise amounts acording to settings or size on fixed tool.
This then allows the new kingpin to fit in the bushing with enough clearance to turn nicely and for the grease to get where it needs to be.Also it will make sure the alighnment of the 2 bushings is correct.
The new bushing will maybe squash a bit when fitted and they are not finnished size normally from the factory. This is why you need to do it
.If too much is taken out you get slop in the new bushes or too little and it will be hard to steer or maybe not grease up properly. Thats why I said if you have one and the skill to use it you where a lucky man. It has to be done right and it takes years to get experience to do it properly.
Regards Robert
Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 7:25 am
by henk
Some hints.
Use a sharp reamer that has never touch steel. Once it has been in steel it will not cut brass.
Always turn a head, never turn back. When taken out the reamer on the top side, keep turning a head.
Adjust the reamer with small amounts. Better to do it ten times and end up right than doing it at once and be to big.
Use some terpetine, TVA or spirit to grease the reaming.
Be ware of splinter material. When it comes into your skin it will give an infection. It will work the splinter out but it's no fun.