Ford 4000 info request

bigmax7 · Post by **bigmax7** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:59 pm

I am just purchased a 1972 4000. The tinwork is good but it requires some mechanical work doing along with some TLC. I have just completed a Dexta and used this site to help along with Stefan’s site and Brian’s and Oscar’s.
Does anyone know of any sites that feature 4000’s and anywhere were the manuals or other info can be found?

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:15 am

Anything I can help with I will. They were my favorite tractor in the '000 nd range and I know a little bit about them and I worked with them from their introduction in 1964 until the late 1970's.

Try New Holland for the manuals etc. bit more expensive but far far better than the IT versions.

bigmax7 · Post by **bigmax7** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:22 pm

Thanks for the reply.
The steering was very stiff so I thought I’d check the bearings and king pins (spindles). I found the hubs very wobbly, on looking one side the inner bearing outer was loose and have warn the hub, the other side needs adjustment. For the loose bearing does anyone agree or disagree with turning the centre of the hub out and fitting a bush to bring it back to size then fit a standard bearing.
While I’ve stripped the hubs I thought I would service the spindles, as these haven’t seen any grease for years, only problem is removing the woodruff keys these seem to be stuck in. I could heat and then freeze the keys or I could drill from the other side and punch them out.
Has anybody any advise on these problems.

Post by **Brian** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:49 pm

Another hub would be cheaper I would suspect. If it is worn that much it will have cit the seal area away as well. The seal was nothing special even when new. The first tractors had no greasers and used to take out hubs and bearings in around 100 hours here in Norfolk. We modified them to fit greasers and the wear levels dropped dramatically. We greased until the grease pushed past the seal and flushed the grit out with it.

Think I would drill the key itself out because it is probably rusted into the stub axle. you might have a bit of a problem drilling through the stub axle and the key is usually pretty soft, You could cut them with a chisel when trying to get them out.

Mervyn Spencer · Post by **Mervyn Spencer** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 10:30 am

Have any of you tried a product called Mr Mckenic? If you google the name you will see the product. I was shown a video this week on the product and it proves to be very good. Just a spray and wait a couple of minutes and the rust is broken down. Better than any penetrating oil I am told. Might do the trick with the woodruff key.

Good luck
Mervyn

bigmax7 · Post by **bigmax7** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:38 am

Mr Mckenic is new to me, I’ve had a quick look but unable to find a UK source. Later today I will try some heat and freezer spray on the key. I first have to get some gas.

How does the brakes work and how can they be checked, seems to bind a bit in reverse.

Post by **Brian** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 1:22 pm

Brakes should be the least of your problems. Oil immersed disc brakes rarely wear out. I would think someone may have over adjusted them if they bind. There should be around 1.5" of free play. Best way to do it is get a block of wood that thickness then put it between the pedals and the footplate. Adjust each in turn so that the pedals just contact the block.

Oil in the rear axle may need changing. If you see a metalic sheen that would indicate brake wear. Oil should be a multi-purpose oil with an additive to eliminate "brake squark".

If the tractor has been used on a lot of road work the brakes can be worn. It is a very big job to carry out a brake service as both axles have to be removed and the epicyclic system has to be removed. Things then have to be torqued up correctly. It will involve very heavy lifting and lining up of splines so you would need a crane of some sort.

bigmax7 · Post by **bigmax7** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:27 pm

Thanks for the info I’ll check the brakes. They only bind in reverse do you think they still ok and maybe just non-use. Does the hand brake use the same system, at present I haven’t used the hand brake it’s a bit sized I think.
The woodruff keys are now removed. I used heat and some freezer spray along with a lot of hammering with a wedge shaped punch, it take a while but I got there.
On removal of the spindles, at the bottom of the front axle holes, does anyone know if there is a spiral machined in the casting or is this bushes, its very hard to tell. If it is a bush I will continue to try and remove them but they look and fill part of the machined hole for the spindle (Kingpins).

Post by **Brian** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:42 pm

I would check the clearance as I suggested on the brakes. Realy there is no problem if you don't use them. As they are in oil they can't rust and there is no dust to make them stick.

Yes they are bushes with a spiral machined into them for grease to move around to all parts of the bush. Also check and reolace the thrust bearings that fit in the bottom of the axle and work on the stub axle.

bigmax7 · Post by **bigmax7** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:34 pm

Has anyone any advise on how to remove the bottom bushes form the front axle. They are corroded in, I have chiselled some of one off but very hard. I removed the axle to help make it more assessable. It seems impossible to knock them out from the top I think they are to corroded to the cast. I don’t know what they are mad of but they seem to be something hard.

Emiel · Post by **Emiel** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:08 pm

Hi,

We replaced these bushes on our 5610 some years ago in the dealers workshop.

The mechanic over there welded the bushes on the inner side. (were steel bushes). Thus letting the applied heat loosen them up. Then they could easily be pressed out with the hydraulic press.

I'm not sure whether your 4000 has steel bushes too, otherwise, you can try to cut them with an iron saw. Be carefull not to cut the casting.

Good luck

bigmax7 · Post by **bigmax7** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:48 pm

Success I've managed to remove the bushes. What I done was, grind the case hardening off with a small grinding wheel in a drill (I tried a windy form Screwfix). Once ground, I made a holder to keep a hacksaw blade ridged and sawed through to the casting and then used a sharp cold chisel to finish and remove the old bushes.
O yes, I did use some heat and plus gas to start.
Thanks for your help.