Back end filings
Back end filings
I've had to take the lift cover off my 5000, lift arms were stuck in the raised position. The roll pin connecting the pin from the lift cylinder to the lift arm cradle sheared off, and there are filings everywhere. I have a few photos to upload later, how do people clean the filings out? Also is a roll pin correct for here or should there be a nut and bolt instead? Thanks for any tips.
If the seat is wet, sit on your hat, better to have a cool head than a wet arse
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Re: Back end filings
I'm assuming the swarf is not limited to the cover ? if you prefer not to drain and flush out, I've a magnet on a telescopic radio aerial to go fishing for swarf with, what remains should get picked up by the magnetic bolts(s) and strainer, far worse used to get in working days I'm sure.
No idea what should be used but roll pins are usually pretty tough so it would make sense to establish why it has sheared and fragmented, someting seized or just repeated vibration through wear in the linkage.
Either way, best of luck with it
No idea what should be used but roll pins are usually pretty tough so it would make sense to establish why it has sheared and fragmented, someting seized or just repeated vibration through wear in the linkage.
Either way, best of luck with it
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure
1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes
Rick - Bogside on Bure
1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes
Re: Back end filings
It's had a back end loader (shear grab) on the linkage feeding silage every winter for almost 30 years, so I can't complain. The loader pushed/bounced up when the lift arms were in the fully raised position as I was reversing down a small slope.
There are still a few 'guru' mechanics locally. One suggestion was to use cheap H32 oil for about an hour, until it warms up, then drain it. But before I do that I'll try collect as much swarf in the bottom and physically take it out. I'll also clean the inlet filter on the pump. I use Diesel for this. I've been told not to use diesel for flushing it because the diesel would prevent lubricating oil sticking to the bearings afterwards.
[urlhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/organize/?start_tab=new_set][/url]
Let me know if the link to the photos works please.
There are still a few 'guru' mechanics locally. One suggestion was to use cheap H32 oil for about an hour, until it warms up, then drain it. But before I do that I'll try collect as much swarf in the bottom and physically take it out. I'll also clean the inlet filter on the pump. I use Diesel for this. I've been told not to use diesel for flushing it because the diesel would prevent lubricating oil sticking to the bearings afterwards.
[urlhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/organize/?start_tab=new_set][/url]
Let me know if the link to the photos works please.
If the seat is wet, sit on your hat, better to have a cool head than a wet arse
Re: Back end filings
If the seat is wet, sit on your hat, better to have a cool head than a wet arse
Re: Back end filings
You are very lucky, when that used to happen in the early days of the 5000 the con rod used to smash the whole housing.
A magnet should sort your problem, most of the filings are on the top of the axle and there is little oil movement up there, if you flush it you will move them all over the rear end. Go round with a strong magnet and it will sort them.
Diesel flushing will not harm the bearings in any way but it will destroy the lift "O" rings, that is why you do not use it. Ford recommend a kerosene/oil mix then a run around with no load for about 30 mins. Then drain and refill.
When refitting the pin and con rod, coat the cup and con rod end with Moly Grease making sure it goes right through the pin holes. Then look forward to another 50 years trouble free work. Be sure you copy and print this advice off, I will not be here when it next fails.![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
A magnet should sort your problem, most of the filings are on the top of the axle and there is little oil movement up there, if you flush it you will move them all over the rear end. Go round with a strong magnet and it will sort them.
Diesel flushing will not harm the bearings in any way but it will destroy the lift "O" rings, that is why you do not use it. Ford recommend a kerosene/oil mix then a run around with no load for about 30 mins. Then drain and refill.
When refitting the pin and con rod, coat the cup and con rod end with Moly Grease making sure it goes right through the pin holes. Then look forward to another 50 years trouble free work. Be sure you copy and print this advice off, I will not be here when it next fails.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Re: Back end filings
Thanks Brian, I really appreciate your knowledge, people who worked on these when they were new are getting scarce around here too! I'm 50 myself so I probably won't be around in another 50 years either.
The tractor was first registered in August 1965, but it's a bit like Trigger's broom at this stage. The back end and the tinwork is original, she still has the 30:1 differential, originally it was an S-O-S gearbox, (look under the steering wheel) it now has an 8 speed gearbox from the mid 1970's . Have to confess we are on our third engine as well! Pto shaft wore away too!
I normally use diesel and a small piece of wire to clean the inlet filter that is bolted to the hydraulic pump. Is there a better way to clean it?
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
The tractor was first registered in August 1965, but it's a bit like Trigger's broom at this stage. The back end and the tinwork is original, she still has the 30:1 differential, originally it was an S-O-S gearbox, (look under the steering wheel) it now has an 8 speed gearbox from the mid 1970's . Have to confess we are on our third engine as well! Pto shaft wore away too!
I normally use diesel and a small piece of wire to clean the inlet filter that is bolted to the hydraulic pump. Is there a better way to clean it?
If the seat is wet, sit on your hat, better to have a cool head than a wet arse
Re: Back end filings
Probaly the easiest way to clean the filter is to unbolt the pump and take it out. You will have to remove the plastic pipe to the PTO valve from the piggyback pump and it will cost you a new square section "O" ring and a gasket but that should be all.
I once had one of those back ends stripped out 30+ times in a short period due to hydraulic faults of a SOS model. It would work OK until you left the field and by the time you got back to base it would have failed again. We did oil tests, components were flying backwards and forwards to Ford Motor Company and eventually they took the tractor back, fitted a complete back end, sent her back and she was no more trouble for many years.
A few weeks later I went to Boreham on a hydraulics course and passed it with a 98% mark so at least I knew how to strip a back end down in those days.![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I once had one of those back ends stripped out 30+ times in a short period due to hydraulic faults of a SOS model. It would work OK until you left the field and by the time you got back to base it would have failed again. We did oil tests, components were flying backwards and forwards to Ford Motor Company and eventually they took the tractor back, fitted a complete back end, sent her back and she was no more trouble for many years.
A few weeks later I went to Boreham on a hydraulics course and passed it with a 98% mark so at least I knew how to strip a back end down in those days.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Re: Back end filings
Just an update. Rinsed it with kero and pulled as much filings as I could out with a magnetised screw driver. Then put in half and half kero and heavy gear oil, 6 gals, and drove around until it got warm and drained it. Tractor is working fine now, thanks Brian for all the tips. Trickiest job was getting the 2 x 1/2'' bolts that hold the filter back on to the hydraulic pump. Not to mention forgetting the O ring under the lift cover that feeds the oil pumped up to the cover from the pump. ![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
![Embarassed :oops:](./images/smilies/icon_redface.gif)
If the seat is wet, sit on your hat, better to have a cool head than a wet arse