The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Hi Fellows,
Does anyone know the reciepy for making a good / rust breaker penetrating oil? I kinda remember reading somewhere that Diesal and Hydrallic fluid mixed will make as good as any you can buy. I've just acquired a Moffat Virtue stationary engine which sat in a creek bed for many years so I'm going to need a lot of it.

regards,
Stevo

The oil that works best is ATF rather than hydraulic oil. I always found that hydraulic oil was very kind to the hands and left them lovely and soft!

Hi Brian,
Thanks for the reply, any need to mix auto transmission fluid with diesal? or use it just straight up.
Regards,
Steve

Diesel will help Steve, and make the ATF go further.

Thanks Brian,
As always a literal font of information, hope things are well in the UK.
Regards,
Steve

Home brew; Use Dextron ATF, the red stuff, then add 1/4 by volume, Acetone, or Keytone and if you must add a light oil also, use what is called Kerosene in the USA or Shellsol a parts cleaning solvent of this type. This mix can be Varied as needed. or you can just buy the best Aero Kroil!

Stevo wrote:Hi Fellows,
Does anyone know the reciepy for making a good / rust breaker penetrating oil? I kinda remember reading somewhere that Diesel and Hydrallic fluid mixed will make as good as any you can buy. I've just acquired a Moffat Virtue stationary engine which sat in a creek bed for many years so I'm going to need a lot of it.

regards,
Stevo

Hello Stevo,

We loosened up a really stuck E27N petrol engine a couple off years ago quite easily with Coca-Cola.

We tried before: Diesel, WD40, ATF etc without succes.

We poured in coca cola and waited three days and I could turn the hand crank a little. Levered it back with a bar in the flwyheel gear, and so forth until I could revolve it.

It was cheap, no violence and relatively envirounment friendle in comparison to oter products.

Hi Emiel,
Yes I know what you mean I used coke on an E27N a few years back to free a stuck motor, but I think the trick with stuck pistons is perseverance, from memory it took about two and a half months of keeping the pistons covered initially with diesal then penetrating oil and lastly coke, I'm not totally convinced the coke finally did the trick more a combination of all of the above. Oh yes I think I used the burning rag in the worst cylinders trick as well also my daily routine was to keep trying to turn it over with the crank and flywheel, once you get even the smallest bit of movement you've won. The stationary engine I'm working on at the moment sat in a creek for many years, and to give you an idea of the rust level all of the head bolts (seven) crumpled under the socket, miraculously the internals and bore have survived, my main problem is every exposed nut, bolt or stud has had it, alot are in awkward positions that don't allow drilling out so I'll have to try and remove them whole, lso the govener set up is a solid ball of corrosion as is the carby and if I can ever get if off will need a good few months soak before I even attempt futher dismantling. (God how I love a challange).
Regards,
Steve
PS Milton my P6 now has an original Tacho and tail light/ aux power out let, just got to track down a generator with tacho drive, it never truly ends does it?

[quote="Tmac"]Home brew; Use Dextron ATF, the red stuff, then add 1/4 by volume, Acetone, or Keytone and if you must add a light oil also, use what is called Kerosene in the USA or Shellsol a parts cleaning solvent of this type. This mix can be Varied as needed. or you can just buy the best Aero Kroil!


I've read that receipe for penetrating oil, somewhere else. Maybe you've posted it before. I was trying to find it, so I could use some on my rusty junk. Now I don't have to look any more. Thanks.
JC

Hi TMAC,
Thanks for the reply, I can now add the reciepy to my favourite restoration tools, namely a dirty great hammer and cold chisel. I like a delicate touch when dealing with old gear.

Regards,
Steve