Engine stand for dexta block

[Dextrous]

Has anybody used an enginee stand similar to this?

Just wondered if there are easy to mount or you have to make adaptor brackets.

Cheers
Andy

[tom lad]

hi

i've a fergie diesel engine sat on one at the mo. no probs with it .


might be a fiddle to get the engine bolted on in the first place .?

tom

[Dextrous]

Thanks Tom - Ive just ordered one - just over £78 including postage - I have a health and safety excuse if SWMBO finds out
Cheers
Andy

[Kim]

Mine is rated for a thousand pounds and I've had inline sixes and V-8s on it with no problems and BOY, does it make things easy when fitting pistons and bearings. You'll like it, I'm sure.

[Dextrous]

Thanks Kim - I wasn't looking forward to dismantling it on the floor or a bench and having to hoist it around - got it now.

hi

i've a fergie diesel engine sat on one at the mo. no probs with it .

might be a fiddle to get the engine bolted on in the first place .?

tom

Tom - is the Fergie diesel you have from an older fergie that is similar to the Dexta? if so I wouldn't mind a pic or description of how you have bolted it to the stand. I was considering re-using the bolt holes on the block where the engine adaptor plate goes, not the head or the sump just the block. However the weight of the engine on 4 x 9/16" UNC bolts worries me, I don't want to crack the block. I was considering welding up an adaptor plate similar to the tool shown in the workshop manual but if I can get away without that it would save me some effort.

Cheers
Andy

[Dextrous]

I have had one of those senior moments - I looked at the spanner size I used to remove the adaptor plate bolts - 9/16" and ordered some long 9/16" bolts to bolt the engine to the stand - doh!!
As soon as they arrived I realised what I had done

So now I have some 3/8" UNF HT bolts on order

Just in case anybody else out there gets confused what BSW/UNF/UNC/BA/Metric/AF etc. mean and the relevent bolt and spanner sizes etc. then this site is pretty good

[Dextrous]

The 3" long 3/8" UNF HT bolts arrrived so they will go through the spider arms on the enginer stand. Next problem is that the distance between the bolts on the block isn't sufficient for the minimum adjustment on the spiders - won't fit.

So plan B. Found a scrap metal plate about the same thickness as the engine adaptor plate - i.e. nice and strong. Drilled 6 holes in it so I can bolt it to the engine with 3/8" bolts. I prefer this as I didn't like the idea of the whole engine hanging of of four 3/8 bolts - 6 seems more reasonable and spreads the stress across the engine casting.

It already had a few large holes in the plate that I can use for mounting on the engine stand but just need to drill a couple more. Ran out of time tonight, here's progress so far. Only 3 bolts in as I need to take the plate off to drill more holes.

[Dandy Dave]

I have had one of those senior moments - I looked at the spanner size I used to remove the adaptor plate bolts - 9/16" and ordered some long 9/16" bolts to bolt the engine to the stand - doh!!
As soon as they arrived I realised what I had done

So now I have some 3/8" UNF HT bolts on order

Just in case anybody else out there gets confused what BSW/UNF/UNC/BA/Metric/AF etc. mean and the relevent bolt and spanner sizes etc. then this site is pretty good

Hang around a hardware store and see how many people come around and look for bolts by wrench size. Bolts are measured by the shank, not the hex, or square, because not all heads are the same. Dandy Dave!

[Dextrous]

Hang around a hardware store and see how many people come around and look for bolts by wrench size. Bolts are measured by the shank, not the hex, or square, because not all heads are the same. Dandy Dave!

Hi Dave, I do know that, I blame temporary insanity or permanant stupidity

I cleaned off the end of the engine and removed the rear crank oil seal assembly as it will be difficult after the plate is fitted. I then fitted the plate to the engine with 6 bolts and bolted the stand frame to the plate with 4 large bolts, note the large nuts used as spacers to clear the head of the 3/8" bolts. Sorted!

[R W]

Built a stand for a 4 cylinder Major engine, drilled a 1/2" plate to fit the rear of the engine thus utilizing the dowel holes and the 7 bolt holes above them.Dowels (9/16") were made and welded into the plate. 4 holes were drilled in the stand plate to correspond with 4 inside bolt holes of the engine and first plate, the head of the top centre bolt is inside the revolving pipe ( a hole was cut in the stand plate to fit pipe). The stand was built stronger and heavier
than those usually seen on ebay or in tool or hardware stores. I still place a jack under the front of the engine once it is in the desired position .

[Dextrous]

I still place a jack under the front of the engine once it is in the desired position .

Sounds good RW. I left it on the hoist but with the tension taken off so the stand was taking the weight overnight - just to be sure. Now I've got the head off its just on the stand however I like the idea putting a jack underneath. I'm sure its safe but no point taking risks.