While I was working on some implements today I had to use one of my old standby tricks. Now this tip may be old hat to some but other people may not have learned this trick. An old Aircraft machinist taught it to me in my youth. That trick has saved many of hours, tools and ruined cases.
Sometimes you will find a Timkin Race (cup) stuck in a case of sorts with NO access to remove with a tool. When the Cup (race) is to be removed and not reused, this method destroys it, arc weld a bead around the inside, bearing face, let it cool, the cup (race) will either fall out or can be lifted by your fingers. This arc bead need not be a large heavy bead either. Keep the bead on the race face, so as not either join the race to the case or deform the case. If using a stick welder you could coat the case material, only bother if the case is steel, or Alum alloy, with anti spatter cream.
Same goes for a inner ball bearing race that the outside of the bearing is gone. Arc weld a bead across the face let it cool or put cold water on it most times the race will crack along side the weld. The heat will release the rust. If the first bead dont get it do another at 180* the ensuing welds will eventually cause the race to break. You can smack it with a hammer, should break easy. Repeat process until you hear it POP!! )
Great tip on bearing removal, one that I will need to try at some time for sure, but the thing that has me most fascinated is how the heck do you get the bold print in your posts?
Regards, Frank.
P.S. I use a similar trick for removing broken bolts, one that I am sure you use yourself. I weld a bump onto the center of the broken bolt and then weld a nut onto the weld. The heat from the welding breaks the rust and the bolt just screws out. I have never heard of the bearing removal trick but it makes good sense.
Hi Frank
Larger type in post is easy. When you post you should see a box, at the top just over the post window. It will have choices. Check font size larger or larger. This will install a code on the front of your post. There will be a number there, like size=18, 20 or something like that. I take out the old number and put 22 it is a better size for me to see.
On the broken bolt tip, I use that trick to. But there are pitfalls to it. The trick works well if what the bolt is broken off into is cast Iron. If it is cast iron an easy job. But if it is steel be very careful that you have NO weld flow onto the base metal as even little spatters will "stick" "Weld" the bolt in, then you are done for. Even drilling is hard then. The other thing watch for stuck bolts , especially studs, in Iron cases that actually may be stuck because of bottoming out in blind holes. The weld trick does not work well in that instance.
If it seems that a bolt is going to break anyways I just go ahead and weld the nut on before it breaks. On really small bolts say 5/16 and under just use a stick welder and a rod a little smaller than the bolt. Put the rod on very straight, start the arc then press it on causing the rod to stick. Let the welder buzz a bit then remove the welding rod handle leaving the rod stuck. Let it cool off. Use a vise grip to grab the rod near the weld then turn out. This process works well when removing from a steel base too. No weld over run then. Also if all else fails, if the bolt is in an Iron case or base you can burn it out with OxAcet torch because the iron will not burn, but if you get it to hot you can melt the threads so be aware of that.
Have found it a good idea to drill the broken stud first, run a weld along the side of the drill hole before proceeding as previously
described.
To avoid thread damage don't drill too larger hole , I was able to purchase a small quanity of 14 gauge rods for use on smaller studs.
I recently removed a broken 7/16 head stud from a Perkins P6 using this method.
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