Blind Bearing, Timkin Cup, Removel Tip, Saves much time
Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 4:37 am
While I was working on some implements today I had to use one of my old standby tricks. Now this tip may be old hat to some but other people may not have learned this trick. An old Aircraft machinist taught it to me in my youth. That trick has saved many of hours, tools and ruined cases.
Sometimes you will find a Timkin Race (cup) stuck in a case of sorts with NO access to remove with a tool. When the Cup (race) is to be removed and not reused, this method destroys it, arc weld a bead around the inside, bearing face, let it cool, the cup (race) will either fall out or can be lifted by your fingers. This arc bead need not be a large heavy bead either. Keep the bead on the race face, so as not either join the race to the case or deform the case. If using a stick welder you could coat the case material, only bother if the case is steel, or Alum alloy, with anti spatter cream.
Same goes for a inner ball bearing race that the outside of the bearing is gone. Arc weld a bead across the face let it cool or put cold water on it most times the race will crack along side the weld. The heat will release the rust. If the first bead dont get it do another at 180* the ensuing welds will eventually cause the race to break. You can smack it with a hammer, should break easy. Repeat process until you hear it POP!!
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Sometimes you will find a Timkin Race (cup) stuck in a case of sorts with NO access to remove with a tool. When the Cup (race) is to be removed and not reused, this method destroys it, arc weld a bead around the inside, bearing face, let it cool, the cup (race) will either fall out or can be lifted by your fingers. This arc bead need not be a large heavy bead either. Keep the bead on the race face, so as not either join the race to the case or deform the case. If using a stick welder you could coat the case material, only bother if the case is steel, or Alum alloy, with anti spatter cream.
Same goes for a inner ball bearing race that the outside of the bearing is gone. Arc weld a bead across the face let it cool or put cold water on it most times the race will crack along side the weld. The heat will release the rust. If the first bead dont get it do another at 180* the ensuing welds will eventually cause the race to break. You can smack it with a hammer, should break easy. Repeat process until you hear it POP!!
