Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

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pbufton
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by pbufton »

Its been put to one side and ive placed the old gasket on the block to see the differences between the two...Im doubting i'll use agriline when I rebuild the engine in the dexta, just cant trust their crap. Saying that the rest of the kit seems good (apart from having to purchase 2 extra sets of piston rings due to one being broken in the box and another just snapping in my hands)

Only makes I can think of are Bepco or Vapormatic? What others are there?

Mark
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by Mark »

I bought my overhaul kit off of my New Holland dealer. That's been 8 or 9 years ago though. Your greatest cost will be the machine work. Be sure you get a reputable machinist to do your work. I hear that there are two kinds of sleeves now, the one that presses in and the other has a lip on the top, with the later you have to have a grove milled in the top of each cylinder. I used the press in for mine and they worked fine after I found a machinist that could hone them out properly. A good machinist will be your best friend in this process.

Ben has just gotten done overhauling his Dexta motor, he can put you on to the right people I'm sure. Jerry Coles is close as well.
If I can be of any help what so ever just ask.
See ya
Mark

When all else fails, get a bigger hammer

oehrick
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by oehrick »

Brian wrote:Plastigauge is what you want, engineers blue is more for machined parts and when you are grinding in valves. Think I would mic. the crank and see if it was round and within the required limits. Re-ground crank and new bearings will not need checking.
A narrow strip of soft lead can be used if no plastigauge is to hand, have tried soft solder but I think this hardens rapidly as squashed as the results have always been off. The humble fag paper has long been the machinists cheap, repeatable go no/go gauge at a thou or thou and a half depending on make, mine are pre decimal so measure your own first, adherents of the metric system should farm the job out to someone that can multiply or divide by 25.4 and charge accordingly - or find another hobby :D

Just a quick heads up, while miking a crankpin would quickly indicate if it had worn oval, because you are only measuring the diameter at two opposite points, a constant reading does not actually mean that the item is circular, try measuring a 20 or 50p coin for an indication of this (sorry out of touch with ROW currencies but any coin with an odd number of curved sides - constant dia needed by coin op or coin counting machines).

Reason for the heads up, I have seen numerous problems with ground bar, such as might be bought for a replacement shaft, valve spool or cylinder ram, which has come in from reputable suppliers 3 lobed, (something to do with the poor set up of centreless grinders) where the diameter was constant and right to a tenth by mic. or digi caliper but it wouldn't fit in the appropriate reamed or otherwise machined 'ole - sitting it in vee blocks and rotating under an overhead dti (or height gauge) tells a very different story as it is measured from 3 points.

So if that shaft you carefully replaced from ground bar runs unexpectedly rough, valve spindle leaks or ram judders or scores seals, just try the threepoint test instead. (Not so easy to measure if it the bore suspected)

For fellow skip dippers, collectors of that which others foolishly chuck or folk who believe that tips dumps and scrap yards are places where you should make larger withdrawals than deposits, old PC line or inkjet printers are a good source of good quality close tolerance ground rod - as always buyer beware :P
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

Pavel
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by Pavel »

I'm not too sure, Oehrick, of the point you're trying to make. You obviously concur with Brian that miking the journals will determine whether they are out of round and therefore in need of a re-grind. I would doubt that any overhaul of a Fordson diesel engine would need to go so far as to require it to be "blueprinted' to the nearest micron. I do recall, in the days of yore, that we used to use a combination of fagpapers and engineers blue to determine areas of 'binding', though. And, incidently, the ones I use are still a thou. [plus a couple of microns] thick [0.03mm] and made in Belgium.
Perhaps those who are not too familiar with decimals should invest in a good quality digital caliper gauge which offers both imperial and metric read-outs.

Pavel

oehrick
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by oehrick »

Pavel wrote:I'm not too sure, Oehrick, of the point you're trying to make. You obviously concur with Brian that miking the journals will determine whether they are out of round and therefore in need of a re-grind. I would doubt that any overhaul of a Fordson diesel engine would need to go so far as to require it to be "blueprinted' to the nearest micron. I do recall, in the days of yore, that we used to use a combination of fagpapers and engineers blue to determine areas of 'binding', though. And, incidently, the ones I use are still a thou. [plus a couple of microns] thick [0.03mm] and made in Belgium.
Perhaps those who are not too familiar with decimals should invest in a good quality digital caliper gauge which offers both imperial and metric read-outs.

Pavel
Hi Pavel

Certainly not looking to disagree with Brian, but oval is easy to detect ! Having been at the butt end of it in the past, I'd hoped to illustrate that despite the widely held belief that if something measures the same all the way round with a Mic or Dial caliper then it must be circular, that can be far from the truth.

As far as the Fordson engine is concerned the prime candidate is gudgeon pins, especially since more and more componentry is being sourced from China. A friend wrote off a couple of new Riley pistons last year which, despite re reaming and heating calipered right against the new gudgeons, forcing in with an arbor press turned out not to be the answer although thats what his supplier suggested.

You are right, dual reading calipers are a godsend, however if matching shafts / tapers these days I'm more likely to reach for the permanent marker pen than the tin of Stuarts blue.

And in 20 years time those following our custody of 'The Blue' will probably write out some of their replacement parts on a 3D printer making many of our hard earned skills redundant :cry:
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

Jerry Coles
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by Jerry Coles »

I spoke to a guy yesterday at the Somerset tractor show at the Bath and West Showground who specialises in HG's etc.
He said that many of the imported stuff was sub standard and not up to the job.
He stocks Payern gaskets of all sorts as well as bearings, track rod ends etc much of it NOS (New Old Stock) from garages that closed down etc.
His name is John Davis and can be contacted on 01724 784230 or email johndavis.vintage@btinternet.com. He said he also had 20+ original Dexta head gaskets.
Nice guy - give him a try!
Jerry
Soggy Somerset
Jerry Coles
Camerton, Bath, UK
West Highland White Terriers, Dexta's, E27N's and DUKW's

oehrick
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by oehrick »

I suspect restorers will be having fun and games into the future as a result of such imports Jerry.

From tonights forecast for nxt Weds & your sig I hope the DUKW is running & comes with a big centrifugal pump - you folks down West look to be in for a further dose - at least it didn't start as snow....
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

Jerry Coles
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by Jerry Coles »

It was my mates DUKW, now since sold :cry: but I'm a member of Wessex4X4Response Association and we are active in providing a taxi service through up to 800mm of Water down there. I'm currently on standy by due to the R Parrett overflowing. I note there was a bit in the paper recently that the fens drainage boards successfully resisted EA taking over responsibility. My wife is a Fen Tiger and I'm from Nr Cambridge so we know the dangers of flooding, pity the EA didn't!
Regards
Jerry
Jerry Coles
Camerton, Bath, UK
West Highland White Terriers, Dexta's, E27N's and DUKW's

oehrick
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by oehrick »

I know Jerry, try factoring the Broads Authority into the equation - praps you have a similar conservation quango 'active' on the levels :cry:

Fingers crossed for you all over the next couple of days
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

pbufton
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by pbufton »

Image

Am I holding the thermostat the correct way round here? Or does it need flipping around the other way? Every manual I come across only shows the original bellows type thermostat

thanks

oehrick
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by oehrick »

Different housing to mine, flow will be into radiator header from pump, the wax in the tube expands to allow water to pass so needs to be on the hot side, it looks to me that you probably have it right in the picture - no doubt someone who knows for certain will be along in a minute, this is such an active and helpful site :)
Best regards
Rick - Bogside on Bure


1958 Diesel E1A Mk2 s/n 1470165 - still in working clothes

Pavel
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by Pavel »

As I mentioned in my post on the 17th; the bellows or 'wax stat' should face the heat source ie the cylinder head. Your pic shows the correct way.

Pavel

pbufton
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Re: Engine overhaul commences. BUT....

Post by pbufton »

Thanks both.

The fe35 is now complete, and runs like a gem, no leaks. Going back to its owner on Thursday :)

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