Introduction

[Nu2tractor]

Just a quick Hello from a newbie.

I am looking at buying a 1966 4000 to attend some shows and do a little bit of work on. So excuse me if I have loads of questions as I am as the forum name suggests, new to tractor ownership...

The Tractor I have been offered is a 1966 Fordson 4000 with front power loader.
It has a canvass type cabin with doors, with a large tubular roll hoop in the rear. I had not seen that type of cabin before and was used to seeing the box section roll frames. So this seemed a little different to me.

Looking for some information on that kind and year of tractor really, so if anyone has any pointers I would be grateful

Cheers.

Andy.

[blackbob]

The 4000 was probably the toughest tractor of its day - the 3-cylinder engine is clattery compared to a 4-cylinder Massey 165 or Nuffield, but it's economical and easily started (it has - or should have - a big battery...) Power-steering is useful if you have a loader, but it was an option many people managed without! The gearchange is easy to use and (unusually for mid-1960's) the pto is independent of the main clutch.

I can't remember seeing one but Ford did fit a cab, as an optional extra, which I think was partly canvas? And there were several companies making cabs, and later, making roll-bars which could be fitted in conjunction with existing cabs.

I'm new here myself and still looking around... I like to see photos and I like taking them, so I will probably post a lot here.. This is a 1973ish 4000 with the standard Ford safety cab of the early 70's, with the standard air-conditioning (removable doors ) on the farm where I had a Saturday/holiday job as a youth.. taken '78 or 9:


Where abouts are you? And what will you use your tractor for? And why a 4000 - or is it just that it is nearby? Got any photos of it?

[Brian]

Welcome to the board, you have got one of the best tractors Ford ever made, my favorite of the thousand series. They were streets ahead of the 5000 and I have said many times, if the two were being demonstrated side by side, the 4000 had to be "nobbled" so it did not show the 5000 up.

The cab you have is most likely a Lambourn, the Ford Canvas cab was white plastic tpe material and did not come out until 1967, not many still out there as they were a bit more money than the Lambourn. Roll bars came in different designs, the round topped ones being very common.

One piece of advice, the engine can be subject to cavitation, pin holes appearing in the bores and inside near the cam shaft. These can be repaired or if really bad, a new block is available. You should run 50/50 antifreeze and water to reduce this problem ideally an antifreeze or coolant from your local Ford, Case New Holland dealer.

The oil you need to run in the engine is a Series 3 type and avoid a lot of light running such as trailer work. If you do not work the engine hard it will start to blow oil out of the exhaust, this is common on all diesels but the short stroke Ford engine can suffer more than others. The simple cure is hard work and make the engine pull and smoke.

[Nu2tractor]

Thanks for the repiles

Some useful information there

OK firstly I am near Low Ham, Langport. So The Somerset Steam fair is on my doorstep

Just back today from the little Steam Train and Tractor meet at Yeovil Junction.
Nice little meet/afternoon out

The 1966 4000 I am looking at/have been offered will be used for some field topping and attending local shows, so best check it is road registered (fairly sure it is).
It is not garage queen and I am more than happy to keep it looking used.

I will get some pictures of it and try to upload them/link them for people to see

Otherwise the nearest I can find as of now, is an expired gumtree add.
Hope this link works...

https://www.gumtree.com/p/plant-tractor ... 1177440233

Scroll down a bit to the pic.

The Tractor I have been offered is very similar to the above, without the half track system.

The canvass type cab is the same, only with doors too.

It also has a large sand/soil loading bucket on the power loader.
Previous life in a horticultural nursery, though very little use now.
All seems to be in running order.
Starts on the button, but does smoke a little.
It had a short engine some years ago after a water jacket issue (possibly tying in with what Brian has mentioned).
And the gearbox was rebuilt while it was all out.

Silly question from a proper newbie...

Just what kind of ball park figure would something like this sell for?

Cheers

[blackbob]

Not nearly as much as that...

When I see a photo/ad like that, it makes me think that someone has bought it at a farm dispersal sale (sitting in a field, with another tractor a few yards away) and is hoping to make a quick profit on it..

My neighbour's lovely 4000, with an original (1968ish) cab but no loader, made £2400 when he had his retirement auction a couple of years ago.

And I'm pretty sure that's a Lambourn cab?

[Nu2tractor]

Yeah, I did think the add price was shall we say a tad rich.... But I'm still a bit new to these.

No idea if it sold or not.
It was just a picture I found that had the same type of cab on it

I have a mate down the road with what he thinks is an ex council special order 4600 of some kind. But he hasn't found anyone who can identify exactly what model it is yet.

I'll try to get some pics of that too.

Ill have a search on Lambourn cab, thanks.

Not nearly as much as that...

When I see a photo/ad like that, it makes me think that someone has bought it at a farm dispersal sale (sitting in a field, with another tractor a few yards away) and is hoping to make a quick profit on it..

My neighbour's lovely 4000, with an original (1968ish) cab but no loader, made £2400 when he had his retirement auction a couple of years ago.

And I'm pretty sure that's a Lambourn cab?

[blackbob]

Just a thought... You mention topping, so you'll need the pto (power-take-off, shaft on the back of the tractor) in working order... When you pull the upside-down-J shaped lever behind your left ankle, forwards, the shaft should start to turn, and when you push it back, the shaft should stop immediately, and be firmly braked.. if it continues to turn, either slowly or at full speed, it will be somewhat inconvenient or even dangerous, and would really need major surgery to correct.
I say this, as I thought all 4000's had pto independent of the main clutch; but looking at this 1965 price list, it seems some may have had 'live' pto like the previous Major models, i.e. you had to push the clutch pedal to put the pto into gear.

[Brian]

All 4000's supplied in GB had Independant Hydraulic operated PTO's, the only "Live" ones on the Thousand Series were the 3000 supplied in GB and some 2000's.

Regarding PTO's stopping, the 4000 was the worst of the range for creeping until the brake was changed from a shoe to a band in the later models so it is possible that yours will still turn when switched off with no load on the shaft. To check if there is a problem, place a good strong piece of wood against the shaft and apply pressure with the PTO off. If it stops you have no problem, if it keeps turning you have warped plates in the clutch and this would need a split at the rear of the gearbox and the clutch serviced. Not a big job and parts are still available.

In the dealership, back in the day, we were trying different design of plates to try and eliminate the problem but nothing really worked. It was a design problem, on the 5000, the PTO clutch pack was in the top half of the rear axle housing, above the oil level, so oil could be exhausted from between the plates by centrifugal force. On the 4000 the clutch pack is below the oil level in the rear axle so oil cannot be exhausted from between the plates, causing oil drag which causes the PTO to turn when not loaded. (That is why I can say with some confidence that overhauling the PTO clutch is not too big a deal, we were stripping and rebuilding them on a regular basis).

On the subject of oil, the Thousand Series was the first Ford tractors supplied in GB to use special oils in the engine and rear axle. In a previous post I mentioned the engine oil, I would advise using a dedicated engine oil and not a Multiuse one, something like Shell Rotella, I use Morrises Golden Film 20/50W in all my tractors with very good results and it can be bought via the internet.

You also need a special oil for the rear axle as the brakes on a 4000 are wet brakes and run in the rear axle oil. This oil needs to have "anti squark" additives to prevent noisy brakes and excessive wear. Some companies sell "Multipurpose" oils which can be used in both engine and rear axles but these oils will cause "bore glazing" in engines not worked hard on a regular basis.

[Nu2tractor]

You just have to love the internet forums for all kinds of helpful people with years of experience and information

[blackbob]

Don't let us bamboozle you - all you need to know, as someone 'new to tractors' and looking for something to drive a topper, is: pull the lever, the shaft should turn; push the lever, the shaft should stop. And if it doesn't stop - you will have a constantly-working mower, unless you stop the engine and un-hitch the driveshaft.

[Nu2tractor]

Right. Not had time to get any pictures of either Tractor sorted yet. But will try and get some soon.

Been out to the 'Yesterday's Farming Show' in Somerset today and had a great time.
So much so, that I am now a paid up member of Blue Force

[blackbob]

Have you got that 4000 bought yet?

Some idea of value here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-4000-tra ... SwHoFXug5N

Looks nice, although no power-steering

[Nu2tractor]

Not yet Mate.
Still doing a bit of research to be honest. As I really am 'that new' to Tractors. Lol...
Not new to the classic car market and an ex Leyland mechanic of a vintage when the Mini Metro was a brand spanking new car.

I have seen the one in your link and am following it out of interest.
Same kind of condition as the 4000 I am looking at.

Also waiting for my Mate with the other Ford to get back from holiday so I can get a much better look around his for basic comparisons. Mind you his is a later 600 series. 633 I think.... Or so he was told when he had to find a clutch for it.

How important is the power steering on a 4000?

[blackbob]

Ha! My first car - 850cc's of pure adrenalin



Power steering - dunno really, I guess it depends what you are going to be lifting, and on what sort of terrain, and what counterweight you have on the back of the tractor - and how Chippendale-esque your physique

I don't think my neighbour has PAS on his 4000, although he is a bit of a gorilla. When I got my first Leyland, similar sized tractor, it had manual steering and would lift silage bales, but was hard work to manoeuvre with them. I think it can be retro-fitted, so you could buy a manual-steered tractor and try it first.

[Nu2tractor]

Cheers


Lol... My first Mini was similar.

850cc - DYP 504C iirc in battleship grey