Hi - Looking for some help and info please- re major project

[Kiwi Kev]

Mark
You are quite correct about them being 5/16 UNC. Sorry bout that.

I too would go for 7.50x16 to keep that front end up, with the extra weight of the 6 cylinder.
You've still got quite narrow rear tyres, so as super6954 says, maybe to keep it looking cool, you could fit some wider tyres, or even some dual wheels.
A tractor not only has to work well, it has to look good.
Kiwi Kev

[icom102]

Looks like a good job but i am sad to see such a good major been used in this way what a waist

[Pascal]

Hi Mark,

I think a 3 furrow will be fine. For a 4 furrow you will probably need 4wd?
I have been told, that for a 3 furrow plough, it's wise to have rear wheel weights in for grip.

[super6954]

Looks like a good job but i am sad to see such a good major been used in this way what a waist

To be honest there are so many of the old majors around I would rather somebody like Mark put a 6 in this Tractor and be happy with what he did and put it back to work.
The tractor will live on and not be in the form of a toyota if it went in the scrap and was re cycled. we should be thankfull to Mark for that:D. If It was a rare tractor like a ferguson brown I would agree with you.
Living in North America I come across a lot of custom cars I heard of a car that there are only 5 left in the world getting chopped to customise it. well now there are only 4 good ones that guy should be taken round the back of the barn for a chat
I guess we all have our own opinions and I'am sorry i do not want to start a 5 page discussion with anybody about waisting tractors in this way. Maybe the tractor is what it is and this part of the topic should just be left alone.
Have a great day.
Regards Robert

[Aussie Frank]

Hey Guys,

I am happy to see passion about these machines from both sides. Those that make there own "improvements" and those that want originality. Both contribute to preservation in their own way. If we don't care none of these machines will survive.

Regards, Frank.

P.S. Robert are you sure the other 4 guys did not arange for the chop job on the fith car just to improve the value of their own? Maybe it's the other 4 need to be taken around the back of the barn.

[icom102]

yes super6954 but one in such good shape as that one should have been left as it was

[Foxen]

yes super6954 but one in such good shape as that one should have been left as it was

Grani converted his roadless four into a six cylinder beast that I would love to have and toy around with, I am pretty sure that his conversion increased the value of his tractor at least twice, both in usability for himself and in $$, this is the "conversion" part of the forum, I think that means if you wander in here you should expect something like "There be Converted Fordsons here"... If this conversion Mark has done means that his tractor will live on for quite a bit more time, probably with more loving care then that is just wonderful and not a shame... I am kind of thinking about converting my own super major into a 6 cylinder beast, but the probability of me finding a good working 2700 series ford engine in my price range is near to nil...

[super6954]

yes super6954 but one in such good shape as that one should have been left as it was

Ok this is my final comment on this part of the topic. I think from the list of parts that mark has put on the Tractor through out this topic. she looked better than she was mechanically sound. Basically she was a 10 a penny worn out major with a tin of paint on it .The tractor would of probably needed a lot more spent on it to do a proper restoration and at the end of the day he would never see the money back if it was sold .
Regards Robert

[fergusont20]

Hello all

After two weeks away i am now back

Back to my Major:



New 7.5 x 16 tyres and new steel wheels



I mean no offence if this is a tractor belonging to someone on here, but i saw this about 5 weeks ago at the county show, its a 6d engine, but im not keen on the unsightly bulge under the bonnet where the air filter is, this is what i have tried to avoid, im hoping when i have a plastic cover over my battery it should look ok





The front end of the tractor is currently in bits, im replacing all the axle parts.

I knocked the old right hand stubaxle out and all the ball bearings dropped to the floor as the bearing itself was knackered, no wonder there was lots of play in it the top half of the top bush was completely worn away, im currently fitting all new bushes but they are very tight, i have tried knocking them in with a wooden block and mallet but no joy, i have now made a puller using a 10mm threaded rod and two thick spaces but i have stipped the threads on the rod as the bush is very very tight.

i then have got to split the tractor again as the transmission oil seal is still leaking lots - anyone done one of these on a major???

Regarding butchering or wasting a Major - This tractor was not being used when i purchased it, hopefully when complete i will be ploughing/mowing/carting timber/pulling trailer/using a haybob/chain harrowing/rolling and probably lots more, so the way i see it is that a major is being used/appreciated and invested in, also because i have spent probably about 1000 pounds on parts with agriline etc because myself and others are buying lots of parts, agriline is then investing in the production of new parts which up untill recently where not available ie fuel tanks,oil baths,more engine parts etc so this helps other major owners and then because parts are more readily available you may see the value of the tractors increase. Look at the prices being paid for massey fergsuon 35's, they increased when most parts became available, it wasnt like that 5-7 years ago.

Also i have now sold my old 4 cylinder engine to a welsh farming family, they have a fordson major with a damaged engine, their tractor has not been used for many many years, so now when they fit the new engine there will be another Major being used and appreciated.

Just my thoughts

And obviously everyone is entitled to his or her own opinion

[Kiwi Kev]

T20
I have done both the front and the rear seal on the transmission, and they are very easy to do. Once you have separated the transmission from the tractor, they can both be done without stripping the transmission.
Kiwi Kev

[super6954]

Hi Mark
Thanks for the update I was wondering if you had left the country for good. I have fitted those bushings before and cant remember them being that tight to strip the threads on a rod. I wonder if the outside diameter is a little on the tight side of the tollerance.
On the subject of people not being happy with your conversion i think you should do 30 more It is one of the best I have seen in a while. Keep up the good work Like you say everybody has an opinion .
Regards Robert

[fergusont20]

Been busy today, but not with my major

We have been turning and rowing up grass for haylage with our international b250

Im hoping to carry on working on my major this next week

My father



and me



It has been a beautiful day here !

[Gubbels]

Hi mark,

Nice pics of the international.

I have one question about your pivot turning system as mine does not work properly. Does your front bolts (see the picture below) have lot of play? cause I machined these holes so a metric M20 bolt just can go in, so it does not have much "play". I can turn the axle a litle bit but not till the end points.



Thanks for your help.

[fergusont20]

I have replied to your axle bolts questions in your thread


Update on mine :

Got the time today to look properly at all the parts i purchased from agriline.

I have taken my front axle, all the steering parts and the tombstone casting to a local machine shop to get them machined properly so my new parts are fitted properly

The axle casting needs reaming so the 4 new bushes fit inside properly, because at the minute they are far too tight and will do more harm than good.

The inside of the 4 new bushes need machining because they are too tight on the new stubaxles

the centre piece of the front axle where it pivots from is worn badly, im having a new bush made for this, so that the new trunion pin and the small bush that fits around that will be a nice tight fit and there will be no play

Im having two new bushes made for the tombstone casting, so that when the trunion pin fits through it, again it will be a perfect fit

I have got new pins and bushes for the tie rod, the ends of the tie rods need maching to accept the new pin, and the two steering arms need maching to accept the new bush

I wasnt told when i bought them, but the new hubs have six threaded holes,you have get the six holes machined out so the new studs fit, why they dont do this when they are made is beyond me ?????????????

It isnt going to be cheap, but there is no point spending 500 pounds on new parts and not fitting them properly, hopefully when all the parts come back from the machine shop, with new bushes everywhere,new pins,bearings and seals, the whole steering and axle setup should be superb, with no play and everything smooth and tight

[fergusont20]

I have put new pins in both ends of the steering arm which we extended 290 mm, the original pins were worn, so this again should improve the steering and reduce the amount of play, I have fitted a new grease nipple as one was missing,I will now be able to service and maintain this part correctly. Whilst on the subject of steering rods, I think the threaded plugs at each end,the ones with the slotted holes for tightening them up, are a really poor design. I mauled my guts retightening them, one still is not tight enough, so I'm going to weld a nut on each end of the plug,this will mean they will be a lot easier to tighten up as I can use a socket and ratchet.

I won't get my parts back from machine shop untill next week, so there is not too much more I can do.

Here is my plan when parts come back::

Refit tombstone casting
Refit axle
Refit radiator
Water and antifreeze
Fit new stubaxles,bearings,seals
New wheels and tyres go on
Refit nosecone
Hopefully should have a new extended bonnet next week
transfer catches from old to new bonnet
nearly forgot, i have a new water probe and gauge to try, lets hope this one does not leak

That should be about it i think, i will then hopefully check over all i have done and then get the tractor out for some light work to see how it performs and to see if there is any problems

There is no oil on the floor from the transmission anymore,and i have checked the level, i did originally overfill it, now it has dropped a little bit and is sitting at the full level, so i am not sure what has happened there. it might be that i dont need to split the tractor and replace the transmission seal after all

My family are going to a local agricultural show tomorrow and are taking about 7 or 8 of our tractors, i would of really liked to have drove there on my major and showed it, unfortunantly i have other commitments so probably wont be able to go anyway

I simply cannot wait to get it outside and start working it. I know you should not wish away your life, but roll on next week

[fergusont20]

Update

One step forward two steps back

This is how yesterday started for me



Front end missing, just needed building up with the parts i have had machined and bushed, i thought it would be so easy

First thing, get the tombstone casting refitted as everything else fits onto it. This piece has had two new bushes machined for it, now the new trunion pin fits beautifully, this is no play here.

Tombstone casting on, I fitted the radiator and plumbed it in again.

Then I fitted the axle to the tombstone casting, I have had the new bush which came with the trunion fitted and reamed out to the correct size to accept the new trunion pin





I have had 4 new bushes fitted inside the axle to accept the new stubaxles, the machinist tells me aswell as reaming the bushes, he had to remove lots from out of the axle to accept the bushes, so I would of never been able to tap them in and also they would of not been right anyway

Throughly cleaned out the axle then i fitted my new stubaxles,bearings and felt seals

Then i attached the tie rod to the steering arms which i have also had new bushes fitted, the new tie rod pins were a very tight fit, i could of had these machined out a fraction, but better to be tight than loose creating play.

Refitted my Ferguson t20 sidearms and then refitted my drag link rod which i have fitted two new pins to

Then i went around all the new grease nipples and greased up

There was not alot left to do at this point, i was hoping to fit the new bearings to the new hubs, then get the front wheels fitted.



Whilst pressing the bearing cases into the hubs, the threaded part of the hub where the hub cap screws onto has cracked

This is made the hub useless as the threaded part if used will break away and then the small front bearing wont be supported and this will cause rapid wear.so i have had no choice but to order another hub off Agriline, this probably wont come untill monday,tuesday next week, then i have got to get the threaded holes machined out to accept the wheel studs

So my dream off driving it to the farm yesterday was not meant to be

Not being able to do much to the hubs i carried on with other jobs, nosecone is refitted, it is dented and tatty but will do for time being, i may eventually buy a new one with headlights mounted into it.

We modified the housing for the water temp probe, so i fired up the tractor, not ran for a few weeks and fired straight up with no throttle or cold start, GOD SHE SOUNDS BEAUTIFUL !! to check that the probe was not leaking water, that now appears ok, but running the engine for 2-3 minutes and the water temp gauge had not risen but im guesing if ran for longer and not just on idle it should work, as i think i dipped it in hot water before fitting.

After a few minutes of engine idling oil started to pour from bellhousing, that transmission oil seal is leaking again, im not messing about so i will split tractor this next week and get it done.

This is how i left the tractor yesterday afternoon

Jobs to do this week :

press bearings into hubs
hubs on then fit new wheels and tyres
Try and contact the bonnet man, as his phone is off again
Split tractor and replace leaking seal






Mark

Nearly forgot - - - i found the serial number on the engine block, it reads S503039, does anyone know what the year of manufacture is ??

[fergusont20]

I dont flipping believe it !!!!!!!!!!!!

ive just been pressing the outer casing of the bearings into the other new hub, i was doing it properly on a pneumatic press, got the casing sitting nice and level, and scraped the hub out and already had the race in once, lubricated aswell, and the casting has all just cracked on the hub

Thats both now knackered !

I have pressed and knocked tons of bearings on and pressed bearings off shafts etc mainly at work and never had this problem before,
Talk about gutted, when i ordered a replacement one yesterday that was the last one, and now i need one more i bet there is about an 8 week wait.

Going to contact Agriline and see about a refund

[henk]

Bad luck or bad parts ferguson,

[Pascal]

Hi Mark,

That's really bad luck...I hope you will keep your head up and
keep working on your tractor.
Once your tractor is finished and you drive on it, you will all forget
these things.

[fergusont20]

I'm really annoyed that both hubs have cracked,especially when i cut out the hubs so the bearing race fitted easily. But it is one of them things.

Also I could of got paid to cart many trailer loads of corn with my major today for a forestry man I know, there would of been some steep hills when going backwards and forwards and I would of really loved to hear my major powering up them pulling some weight

These setbacks happen, but it just makes me more determined to get in done and start using it, and like Pascal says, hopefully when i start using the tractor all these setbacks will be forgotten

Mark

[fergusont20]

Right, im going to get on the phone in the morning and order the oil seals that i need for the transmission, the problem is that i dont know what i need

Agriline lists two oil seals, input and output, but the input seal they list is for a Super, so not sure exactly which ones i need as i have never done these seals on a major before, can anyone advise please??


7395 Seal-Output Shaft
(85mm x 111mm x 12.5mm) All Majors £9.50

50140 Transmission Input Seal.
For Super Major's with 13" Single Clutch Super Major £6.00

Thanks Mark

[henk]

Ferguson20,

Please keep me updated about the seals for my database. I haven't got that numbers yet.

[super6954]

Hi Mark
Sorry to hear about the hubs cracking.
I see you have got new Kingpins are you using the original steering arm tops. If you are you may find the tracking is out on the wheels when it is together. some of the repro kingpin locating notches dont match the originals. i found this on a pair I changed Watch out for it
Regards Robert

[fergusont20]

Hi Robert

I thought you had left the country

Yes, im using two new stubaxles/kingpins, i havnt given the tracking too much thought as one is facing forward slightly and the other is facing backwards slightly so i just presumed they were ok. When i get the new wheels and tyres on i will measure the exact distance between the two tyres, both at the front of the tyre and at the rear aswell, this will then tell me if the tracking is out, if it is i will drill out the stubaxle slightly so i can move the stering arms around a notch ot two so i can get it exact.

Thankyou for the info

I have two new hubs from agriline,they have replaced them after having quite a few back by the sounds of it as they were not cast properly,which i can safely say seem ok, i have fitted the bearing races into these,the same as before,by measuring them and scraping out the inside of the hub untill they tap in easily.no cracks this time., so now i have just got to fit them and set up the tension between the two tapered bearings on each hub,then fasten them off with a cotter pin between the castle nut,then pack with grease and then fit the tyres.

Im hoping on thursday to split the tractor and replace the seals, after speaking to agriline they dont seem to know what seals i will need, so when i pull the old seals out i will measure them or get a reference off them and go to a local bearings/seals/transmission company and get the right size seals off them.

I have been thinking today about splitting the tractor, i hope it comes apart easy enough, i plan to just remove the four bolts each side on the side rails, and the bellhousing bolts. Im going to leave the side rails fitted to the engine, hopefully this will make it easier the line up when putting back to together as the engine cant pivot from side to side because of the two plates which are fastened to it off the side rails.
Hope this makes sense

I should just have to undo the fuel line from tank to lift pump, undo wiring,throttle rod,engine stop cable and water temp probe cable and that should be it, i intend to leave the rear end stationary, and by means of the engine lift pull the engine forwards slightly so the dog can see the rabbit.

Will hopefully have lots of pictures and info in the next couple of days

Mark

[super6954]

Hi Mark
No I Have not left the country just busy in the workshop fixing customer jobs . spare time has been a bit on the low side.
To be honest using a motor crane is not the best way to split a tractor. there is to much swing in it with the slings and you would be better off using a good sized Trolley jack under the moving half and a bottle or suitable screw jack under the other half so that you can raise or lower both halfs to get things to line up again if needed .
Some times I move the back half on smaller tractors as it is more stable and does not rock around. dont forget that you will have to put wedges in the front axle pivot to stop the motor leaning side to side on the pivot at the front.
Good luck with it use plenty of blocks and play safe. I have had some come apart and go back real easy.Then there have been the ones that fight all the way to get them lined up and the clutch splines back in .
Regards Robert