Hi - Looking for some help and info please- re major project

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Kim
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Post by Kim »

Just a thought about the wishbone and how to use it on your conversion. I hope this helps!
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Never give up!

Pascal
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Post by Pascal »

I will be using the following solution for my conversion.
De `U`are cut from the Major A-frame.
The rods are the steering rods from a Dexta.

Image
Best regards,
Pascal

Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

Hi Pascal

That looks like a good setup, it has given me some more ideas. and I will be making something similiar, I take it then that the u parts on the dexta steering arms were not large enough to go around the major axle.

I wonder if the steering arms off a ferguson t 20 or a massey ferguson 35 would fit straight around the major axle then you would only have to cut one end of them where they get made into the piece with the trunion pin in

Very interesting

I will tomorrow measure the steering arms off my massey 35 to see if a pair of them would be suitable

Foxen
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Post by Foxen »

fergusont20 wrote:Hi Pascal

That looks like a good setup, it has given me some more ideas. and I will be making something similiar, I take it then that the u parts on the dexta steering arms were not large enough to go around the major axle.

I wonder if the steering arms off a ferguson t 20 or a massey ferguson 35 would fit straight around the major axle then you would only have to cut one end of them where they get made into the piece with the trunion pin in

Very interesting

I will tomorrow measure the steering arms off my massey 35 to see if a pair of them would be suitable
The MF35 arms are most likely the same size as the ones on a dexta or super dexta, the major ones are wider as this is a heavier tractor with a _heavier_ front axle setup... ;)
Essex Lily - Super Major -62 (No. 1618924)
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

Foxen wrote:
fergusont20 wrote:Hi Pascal

That looks like a good setup, it has given me some more ideas. and I will be making something similiar, I take it then that the u parts on the dexta steering arms were not large enough to go around the major axle.

I wonder if the steering arms off a ferguson t 20 or a massey ferguson 35 would fit straight around the major axle then you would only have to cut one end of them where they get made into the piece with the trunion pin in

Very interesting

I will tomorrow measure the steering arms off my massey 35 to see if a pair of them would be suitable
The MF35 arms are most likely the same size as the ones on a dexta or super dexta, the major ones are wider as this is a heavier tractor with a _heavier_ front axle setup... ;)
You think the same as me, but untill I see and then measure I don't know for definate

Pascal
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Post by Pascal »

Hi Mark,

The U-parts of the Dexta rods are indeed not big enough. I have tried it. :D
Best regards,
Pascal

Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.

Gubbels
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Post by Gubbels »

Hi Mark,

Nice work. I'm looking forward to see and hear your engine running.
Does the air filter fit, from what brand is it?
Good luck with the works,

regards,

arno
Restoration project: Fordson Power Major 6 cyl. Conversion http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=9&t=1612

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

Hi

Amongst other things i have been working on two tractors today so i havnt been able to devote all my time to my major.

Jobs on my massey ferguson 35:

Painted radiator
painted injector pump and fuel lines
fitted pick up hitch and plate mounted to underside
fitted new painted wings, they are from agriline and v poor fit
fitted correct back wheels
started on setting up top link sensing

jobs on my major:

The two bolts holding the a frame to the axle were the most seized bolts i have come across in the last 12 months, had the strip all the axel down completely to heat up the front axle from both sides, it took some serious thrashing to get both bolts out. but they are both out now thank goodness

Starter motor has been serviced and now spins freely and quickly with no drag

i now have a suitable alternator trial fitted, this tomorrow has got to been checked over

I have a new exhaust pipe trial fitted, a straight piece of stainless tubing :)

The tombstone casting has been fitted to my new side rails, so tomorrow i can fit the radiator, i abit concerned about fitting a bottom hose, because the bottom hose comes out on the other side on this new engine

Tomorrows jobs:

Fit new fuel line from tank to lift pump.
assemble rest of front axle.
fit radiator and plumb in.
make a new wiring loom.
didnt realise the i needed 4 oil seals for brake axle, the last two have been delivered today, so ican fit these and the fit new brake linings then put back wheels on.

not sure if there is enough space because of battery to fit air filter, will try and have a play around with it

be nice to think i can get it running tomorrow

henk
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Post by henk »

Mark,

Could you please inform me about measurements of the oilseals for the brakes.
Other oilseals are welcome to.
Kind regards, Henk

Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

henk wrote:Mark,

Could you please inform me about measurements of the oilseals for the brakes.
Other oilseals are welcome to.
Henk

I have bought the seals off agriline, I believe the measurements are on their site. If not I can measure them for you

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

SHE IS ALIVE !! :D

Well in fashion anyway.

Image

Still have quite a few more jobs to do but late on today will had the engine running, after spending alot of time and money we just wanted to hear it startup. I am very very pleased.

After fitting a new temporary plastic fuel line, will bled the air out of the system, connected up the charged battery to the starter and turned the engine over, it was turning over very slowly, so not knowing how good the battery is because it came with the major, we connected up my heavy duty starting device to the battery and the engine turned over abit faster but still what i thought was too slow to fire up.

I think because of the 4 inch diameter tubing i have as a temporary exhaust pipe, and we had the engine on full throttle because we had the cold start button in and the fact we thought it was turning over too slowly and we were inside my building without the roller door open, then the engine fired into life and made the both of us jump about 20 feet into the air with fright!! the engine sounded very very powerful and very very loud!! i didnt manage to make a video as everything happened very quickly. The engine stopped after a few seconds so we have left it like that untill tomorrow.

We wasted around an hour trying diffrent combinations of hoses and metal elbows pieces to connect up the bottom hose on the radiator, none were very good, as the hose is either going to catch the pulley on crankshaft or the radiator fan, so tomorrow afternoon i am going to drill a new hole in the other side of the bottom of the radiator, this will then be easy to connect up a hose from the waterpump.

Only going to be able to work on major in the afternoon tomorrow so hope to complete following jobs, if we have engine runing properly i will make a video

Jobs tomorrow

fit dashboard
make wiring loom
connect up oil pressure ans water temperature guages
extend steering arm
extend trottle metal rod
get new throttle cable to use as engine stop cable
drill out and weld radiator
fit oil seals and brake linings
fit back wheels
air filter placement????
bracket to hold top of radiator??
remove metal blinds from radiator

thanks mark

and a picture of my massey ferguson 35 that i have been working on

Image
Last edited by fergusont20 on Wed May 12, 2010 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

Done abit more on the tractor today, i made a quick video.

The last ten seconds of the video i give it some throttle



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJylUtF9u98

whats everyone thoughts??

thanks Mark

henk
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Post by henk »

Sounds great.
Nice pictures of valve dancing.
Kind regards, Henk

Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I

Pascal
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Post by Pascal »

Sounds like music to my ears! :thumbs:
Best regards,
Pascal

Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

thanks for your kind words

I am very pleased, engine started today very easily, no cold start, fired straight up with little throttle. sounds very well with alot of power. Lifted the rocker cover off to make sure oil was getting to top end of engine which it is doing

No breathing from engine and oil pressure appears to be very very good
:beer:

I look forward to doing more work to it next week, cant wait to get using it, we have bought many many tonnes of timber so i hope to cart it with my major :)

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

Can someone help me locate a casting code please??

I have followed Brian Dye's document, i need to find "casting date on side of gearbox/clutch housing"

I presume that is the one next to the clutch linkage shown in a picture in the document

and where would this one be??

"left hand side of transmission housing"

super6954
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Post by super6954 »

HI
Ive been following your post on this conversion It looks great and sounds sweet. I have 2 6cyl majors a power with 6 d and a super that is not finnished with a 2704 turbo motor. That may be converted back to 4 as blue orange supers are getting hard to find in Canada. lots of majors have been scrapped and the good tin work has been shipped back to the uk by Richard Pocock.
I might be ahead of my self here but are you looking for the codes to date your casting to see if a bigger 13" clutch will fit your clutch housing?.
If so I can give you the measurements you need.
The old style housing Is 4.5'' from the front face of clutch housing ( measured from front of the flange that the motor bolts to) to centre of clutch rod that runs through housing and the new style is 6" to the centre of rod you need the 6" spaceing to put a bigger clutch in. it is hard to tell from your pictures but it looks like yours may be 4.5"
I hope this is what you need
Regards Robert

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

super6954 wrote:HI
Ive been following your post on this conversion It looks great and sounds sweet. I have 2 6cyl majors a power with 6 d and a super that is not finnished with a 2704 turbo motor. That may be converted back to 4 as blue orange supers are getting hard to find in Canada. lots of majors have been scrapped and the good tin work has been shipped back to the uk by Richard Pocock.
I might be ahead of my self here but are you looking for the codes to date your casting to see if a bigger 13" clutch will fit your clutch housing?.
If so I can give you the measurements you need.
The old style housing Is 4.5'' from the front face of clutch housing ( measured from front of the flange that the motor bolts to) to centre of clutch rod that runs through housing and the new style is 6" to the centre of rod you need the 6" spaceing to put a bigger clutch in. it is hard to tell from your pictures but it looks like yours may be 4.5"
I hope this is what you need
Regards Robert
Hi

Im looking for all the castings because i want to get it reregistered with the dvla and get an age related registration, i received no paperwork when i purchased te tractor and their is no old reg plate with it.

Im hoping the clutchhousing will be no issue at all, i have tried with engine running all gears are ok and drive back axle and clutch seems to be working corrrectly, belt pulley working ok too.

Both your majors sound very good, id be interested in seeing some pictures of you have any???

Thanks Mark

super6954
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Post by super6954 »

Hi Mark
Thanks for your reply I will post up pictures of my tractors some time for you. With the 6 fitted the DVLA may give you a Q plate as they could say there is not enough of the original tractor left to age relate a plate to. That has happened to a friend of mine before.
you say the gears/ clutch on the major are working fine yes they will at the moment. as a few other guys have commented that 11" clutch aint going to like 100 horses shoved through it.
my 140 hp super smoked the main clutch on a dual live drive assembley pulling away in a high gear and that is 12".
I had to take out the live box and put in a dead drive box and 13" clutch and really it needs a twin disc puller clutch to be 100%. The 6d still has the dual drive box and clutch and it is only around 80 hp. I had to be carefull with it on a 6 odd ft topper cutting thick grass.
you would probably get away with the small clutch on road runs and a gentle hand on the throttle but hauling wood and working it would probably result in it being towed home fairly quickly ( I have a feeling you could be the guy that proves us all wrong as that happens sometimes too :) ).
I do not want to come over as a know it all. im only a 36 year old ex U.K farm kid with a very strong mechanical background I do have a lot of experience in tractor pulling and things that you are doing and Im not the only one to comment on this clutch.
we are just trying to point you in a good direction and maybe save you some problems later . keep up the great work on the tractor and looking forward to seing it finished its really nice so far :D .
Regards Robert

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

super6954 wrote:Hi Mark
Thanks for your reply I will post up pictures of my tractors some time for you. With the 6 fitted the DVLA may give you a Q plate as they could say there is not enough of the original tractor left to age relate a plate to. That has happened to a friend of mine before.
you say the gears/ clutch on the major are working fine yes they will at the moment. as a few other guys have commented that 11" clutch aint going to like 100 horses shoved through it.
my 140 hp super smoked the main clutch on a dual live drive assembley pulling away in a high gear and that is 12".
I had to take out the live box and put in a dead drive box and 13" clutch and really it needs a twin disc puller clutch to be 100%. The 6d still has the dual drive box and clutch and it is only around 80 hp. I had to be carefull with it on a 6 odd ft topper cutting thick grass.
you would probably get away with the small clutch on road runs and a gentle hand on the throttle but hauling wood and working it would probably result in it being towed home fairly quickly ( I have a feeling you could be the guy that proves us all wrong as that happens sometimes too :) ).
I do not want to come over as a know it all. im only a 36 year old ex U.K farm kid with a very strong mechanical background I do have a lot of experience in tractor pulling and things that you are doing and Im not the only one to comment on this clutch.
we are just trying to point you in a good direction and maybe save you some problems later . keep up the great work on the tractor and looking forward to seing it finished its really nice so far :D .
Regards Robert
Hi Robert

Thanks for all your info

I should explain myself better, i am using the 13" clutch assembley which came with the 6 cylinder engine, it has gone into the tractor ok and all gears appear ok.

Not using an 11" clutch off the old engine

Pascal
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Post by Pascal »

Hi Robert (and others),

Thank you for your advices!
I am working on putting a 590E before a Super backend with a dual clutch.
After reading all your advices, I think it's wise to put the revs of my 590E not up to the max of 2400 rpm.
I think somewhere between 1800 - 2200 rpm would be better?

The reason I am putting an 590E before a dual clutch is, not to be pig-headed :D but more like ignorance. And that I don't have a non live drive backend nor the space to store a spare one without live drive. :?
I will not use her for any hard work, so I hope it will last some time. :) I'll try to be gentle with the throttle. :)

I have bought a brand new clutch for my tractor at Agrilines, so hopefully that will contribute to a long life. 8)
I will keep you updated.

I read, that Roadless/County had a better and more strenghtened dual clutch for their 6 cylinder conversions.
I wish I had one of those. But I guess there worth their weight in gold? :cry:
Best regards,
Pascal

Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.

super6954
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Post by super6954 »

Hi Mark
Thanks for the update on the clutch I am glad you are using the 13'' clutch that came with the motor I am not sure but that may even have stronger springs than a standard tractor clutch if it is from a lorry (or truck depending on your location in the world :) )

Hi Pascal
For your tractor you would only have to buy the internal parts of the gear box and Clutch / flywheel as it should already have the right size bellhousing. The only drawback to doing this is it makes the tractor harder to use on pto work. with the de rated revs and a new clutch you should be good and as you seem to be saying you are going to drive it with the respect the old girl deserves.
Good luck and look forward to seeing pictures when its finished

super6
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Post by super6 »

just thought i would throw my thoughts on clutch into thread.
my 6 is 110 bhp with livedrive clutch, i have done a good 200 hours of hard road work and cultivating with an old clutch and no slipping has ever occured , my pedal is high but i need to split and check linkages.
i would say the live drive would be fine as long you remember it is not quiet the right one for the engine and drive accordingly.

Pascal
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Post by Pascal »

Thank you for your reactions, guys! I really appreciate it.

Tommorrow I am going to work on my 6 again.
I will keep you updated.
Best regards,
Pascal

Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.

fergusont20
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Post by fergusont20 »

Update :

Unfortunantly with good and bad news

Bad news first


Image

Our International B250, was powering our pto driven sawbench last saturday, engine knocked then stalled itself :(

Took the sump off expecting to see a damaged crankshaft or seized pistons,wondered if oil pump had suddenly packed up and made everything tighten up.

Took a couple of caps off and checked shells, all ok there

Managed to turn engine over with a large bar and socket on front pulley but hitting a dead spot each rotation.

Took rocker cover and rocker shaft off, could see immediately that the spring on one of the two valves on number one piston was sitting higher than all other seven springs :(

Took cylinder head off to reveal a broken valve head stuck into the top of number 1 piston, either pre combustion chamber cap has broke up and got caught behind valve or valve head broke and then broke in pre combustion chamber cap

Image

Image


damage list:

1 bent and 1 broke off valve
1 damaged piston
heater plug
cylinder head damaged, valve seats mangled and valve guides broke in head
conrod in the shape of a horseshoe

weighing up costs it has been cheaper to buy a new cylinder head built up with 8 new valves and double valve springs then get old head repaired and buying separate valves and spings

New parts have been delivered so we will hopefully get this tractor running again on Tuesday

My Major project:

Because of the other tractor breaking I havnt had much time to work on this.

I have purchased three new gauges, oil pressure,water temp and an ammeter, I have got a length of copper cable and correct fittings to take the oil feed from the block to the gauge

I have got a new universal engine stop cable which I hope will be long enough as the old one wont reach to the injector pump on this new engine.

I have a new ignition switch, just need to get a little 12v light for my ignition light

I have fitted new oil seals on both ends of the casting on the brake axles, I have these to refit.(agriline only have the one to go behind the brake plate, they don’t stock the one for other end of casting which sits inside tractor)

Both of the old brake cables are no good, they are kinked and rusty and because no one in it previous life has greased them, they are seized solid. new ones are I think £30 each from agriline plus vat and postage. For that price it will be cheaper for me to go down the hydraulic servo assisted brake route. This is something I have thought a lot about, with the extra speed/power and weight I want to ensure the brakes are more than upto the job, I will be hopefully working this tractor a lot so the brakes nned to be good. I am going to get a lucas 12v alternator off a ford transit van, they have a vacuum pump built on the back of the alternator driven by the pulley, this will give me the vacuum needed for my brake servo, I will use one master cylinder as I am not bothered about independent brakes and then the slave cylinders will be in the drums. This should give me very good brakes, but removing the brakes cables will render my handbrake useless so I will have to devise a brake pedal catch like on a ferguson t20 or a massey ferguson 35 to give me a handbrake.

I will keep you posted, thanks Mark

Oh, another thing i have been thinking about is a pick up hitch, as i am going to need one pretty much straightaway when the tractor is finished, does someone mind posting some pictures of one, or one that they have made

Thanks

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