Lifting arms

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paul57
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Lifting arms

Post by paul57 »

Hi There
I have just picked up a fordson Dexter bit sad looking reminds me of mater out of cars
and for the love of me i can not get the arms to lower i thought they lowered by gravity as the arms on my fordson major does but i have stood on them and i aint no light fella but still no go does that mean i have to pull the top off and if i do what am i looking for
please
regards
Paul

Brian
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Post by Brian »

Welcome to the board.

The most common cause of your problem is a stuck unload valve which means the top will have to come off. Not a bad job and well documented on this site if you do a search.
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Raymondc71
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hi

Post by Raymondc71 »

I also had the same problem..ya brian is right its an stuck unload valve..has the dexta been sitting for a while as in not running?
If your taking the top off make sure not to take the bolts which hold the pump onto the top lift..or the pump will fall..the is one bolt under the auxrily service plate so you will have to take that off first..dont lose the gasket off that plate because they are hard to get unless you want to make one.then undo all the bolts AROUND the housing..Its quite heavy so you would need a couple of people or a engine crane...we used a mini digger..Removing the unload valve can be tricky but it has to be done..also you might as well change all the o rings and check the housings and filters for any dirt..Mine had lots of dirt!!check the piston seal while you have it off!You could try hitting the top lift with a hammer to unstick the unload valve! hit the side nearest the gear levers..heard of it working!thats with the top lift on now ok..!!I know how it feels! :twisted: :D
Diesel Dexta 1960 Restyle

paul57
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Post by paul57 »

yer i smacked the F@#% out of the lift arms but they did not lower you guys have confirmed my worst fears i go t to remove the top this wek end and check for blockage will report back what i find in a couple of days thanks
regards
paul

Foxen
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Post by Foxen »

It's not the case of dirt blocking any passages but a small valve with a dysfunctional O-ring that has stuck because of the o-ring... It was the same on my super major, upon reassembly I omitted that O-ring by advice from a friend who had done the same with his and since he suffered no ill effects of doing it I reckon I will get away with it aswell.

The unloading valve resides in a bore on the side of the ram cylinder, adjacent to the main control valve(the one with a funnel at one end), to get it out is a pretty simple procedure, remove the four screws that hold the end plates to the housing and don't loose the spring and other things that will pop out, locate the threaded plug on one side(the valve is inside that one and can be punched out from the opposite side with a bit of 8mm rod and some gentle hammering). Make sure you don't slip with the rod and scratch the valve bore or it will not seat properly in the future! Once you've discarded the old o-ring and decided wether you'll replace it with a new or omit it, oil it up lightly and push it back in, then clean the plug and the end of the bore thoroughly, apply some loctite or similar to the plug and push it back into the bore, you can tap it in using light hammer strokes but be wise to do so in a circular motion around the edges of it, otherwise it will "tilt" and damage the bore or use some kind of press to push it in, it should sit flush with the face around the bore, threaded hole outwards. Reassemble with the backing plates, spring and such and you should be set. And as said by earlier speaker, renew the o-rings in the valve chest and those between the ram cylinder assembly and the lid :)
Essex Lily - Super Major -62 (No. 1618924)
Mr Fordson - Super Dexta -64(dad's)
"Si is est non infractus , effrego is quod animadverto si vos can redintegro is!"
<Ut simplex, validus quod constanter ut ferrum talea campester = Super Major>

Raymondc71
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hi

Post by Raymondc71 »

another way of removing the unload valve.. get a big socket which has a greater diameter than the unload valve plug..unload valve plug which is under that plate with the 4 screws or the newer pump will just have 2 screws,its the side of the pump with the spring inside the plate and has a cone coming out of the plate..as i was saying screw your long 3/8 stud into the valve plug then put a big socket piece or a piece of pipe over the plug..get 2 nuts and tighten the nuts behind the socket..tighten the nut nearest the socket and the valve plug will start to come out..you could try the other way the last writer said but personally i wouldnt as it could damage the valve..
Diesel Dexta 1960 Restyle

Brian
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Post by Brian »

Do NOT attempt to punch the valve out from the back with the plug in place. You must draw the plug out as suggested, with a bolt and piece of pipe or socket.

You can damage the valve with the slightest burr. I have examples in my "horrors" box of burred unload valves and also bent ones due to being driven out with a punch.

The valve is normally slightly rusted in, again do not clean with any form of abrasive material. It needs to be gently polished with a chrome cleaner or jewllers rouge. Get the proper "O" ring too or leave it off all together. The wrong or tight ring will stop the valve working.

Check the return filter and valve. If this is blocked or the valve stuck open, this will cause sticking in the valve.

The plug has to be tight. Do not use any locking medium otherwise you may find that, if any gets on the valve itself or even onto the control valve which is ported via the groove in the plug, you may have other major problems.
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Post by dexta roadless »

Brian wrote
Get the proper "O" ring too or leave it off all together.
So there is no problem by skipping that O-ring? One of my tractors are only used 2-3 nomths a year. When starting every spring, thebig question is not if she want to start, but if she want to start lifting because of that O-ring. A couple of times I have been forced to open up and free that unloading valve.
6o Dexta Roadless
62 Dexta
63 Super Dexta
75 Shilter UT
62 Aebi

Brian
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Post by Brian »

It is better to have no "O" ring than the wrong one. The original had a blue spot and was made of a hard rubber. Later tractors had a metal piston ring but even this gave problems.

Just one of the things we have to live with. :)
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