engine overhaul

[mathias1]

more progress
I hope I got the trustbearings the right way in.
is there something more I need to pay attention to?

[SvendH]

about the headgasket.
If the the the surfaces involved are true the liners not too "high" and the torquing sequence adherred to then the engine will be good and "tight" using just the gasket alone.In my experiance.
If I was in doubt about one of the above I doubt weather gasket goo will help much.
If in doubt have a professional engine builder check the parts before you assemble them.
Just my 2 cents

[SvendH]

the thrust bearings look fine to me.Lots of assembly lube and there must be no binding at all when when you spin the crank by hand after you torque the bearings.any binding and you stop and find out what is wrong.And you will end up with a good running engine.

[mathias1]

thanks Sven,

as for the bearings: it's good practice to check on a regulary base if the crankshaft can rotate easily. At least that's what they've learned me to check.
Need to finish this engine soon, as it's already taking too long now

[mathias1]

So the new tappets did arrive, but it seems that they are the older style ones. They are also a little shorter. Have to decide what to do with it.
Got new bearings in for the auxilary drive shaft. But will need a speedy sleeve or someone to repair the shaft, as the seal has made some marks there.

I really should invest in a lathe someday ...

[mathias1]

Been busy with fitting the liners and liner seals (used tyre mounting soap for that) and pistons.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Looking good!
All best, Adrian.

[Mervyn Spencer]

Looking very professional Mathias, I'm very curious to know what the purpose is of the big flat washes bolted to the head over the sleeves?

[Old Hywel]

Washers prevent the liners moving as the engine is turned over.

[mathias1]

Looking very professional Mathias, I'm very curious to know what the purpose is of the big flat washes bolted to the head over the sleeves?

Mervyn,

I'm not a pro, trying to do it as good as possible. As Old Hywel says, the washers keep the liners in place while turning the crankshaft or the whole engine on the engine stand.

[mathias1]

Injectors dissembled, cleaned the bits. now back together. I've got them set to the right opening pressure. They all spray fine in the 4 directions now. 2 had a stuck needle.
Only one I still need to look into the "leak back". The pressure drops a bit too fast.
They all have the crispy noise at the opening pressure

[JC]

I would probably put new nozzles on them, while you have them apart. I guess it's not really necessary, though, if it starts and runs okay, and doesn't smoke.

[mathias1]

Will see JC, replacing injectors isn't a difficult job when the engine is back together.

meanwhile:
I got the refurbished shaft back


Did make a new locking plate for the new oil pump. the design of the pump was a little different compared to the old one


All torqued down to (80NM and 133NM), almost ready to put the sump on. Just still hesitating about the camshaft followers.


Now I can start dismantling the head:

[AdrianNPMajor]

Great job, Mathias.
This all looks just as it should be.
Re the head, recommend that you have it skimmed. At the same time ask the workshop to press in new valve guides and to regrind the valve seats to fit new valves.
Also, look for a thermostat that opens at around 200F. It's all about achieving complete combustion at top dead centre, or as close and quickly as possible after TDC. A hot, but not overheated, water jacket allows the diesel vapour to combust fully at TDC, whereas a lower water jacket temperature means that the diesel vapour fails to combust completely and instantaneously, meaning it continues to burn all the way down the power stroke, leading to reduced power output and higher temperature exhaust gases.
Check out my videos. You will see the needle sitting halfway along the red section of the gauge. Some Major owners have looked at this and become anxious, but they needn't be. Quite the opposite. For this reason I am not a fan of the Super gauges. Neither the oil nor the temperature guages are calibrated so as to show precise figures.
Re this subject, see quote below. See also viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6839&hilit=thermostat
Best, Adrian.

"You should want your engine's oil & water temperatures warmer to:
1) reduce piston/ring sliding friction,
2) to complete combustion before the crankshaft has rotated so many degrees which translates into more "area under the curve" of piston pressure pushing the connecting rod down to rotate the crankshaft, and
3) to better purge volatile oil-borne combustion byproducts from its oil supply.

Just as injector nozzle pressures over 30,000 psi have enabled diesel designers to generate higher torque from identical total fuel flows of better atomized fuel presenting more surface area to oxygen which induces earlier combustion completion, so too do higher combustion chamber temperatures also cause slightly earlier combustion completion during the power stroke. Earlier combustion completion results in higher gas pressures earlier in the power stroke which are converted into higher average crankshaft rotating pressure. Gas pressure converted earlier into crankshaft rotating work is not later available as waste heat at the bottom of the power stroke. That contrasts with later combustion completion which fails to convert as much gas pressure into crankshaft rotating energy so more gas energy is still available at the bottom of the stroke as waste heat. That complex relationship is why earlier combustion completion, whether caused by better fuel atomization or by higher combustion chamber temperatures, lowers exhaust gas temperatures while simultaneously increasing crankshaft power output. "

[mathias1]

Will have to take the head to a workshop to get the valve guides out. I tried with a threaded bar and a socket to get them out, but that didn't work. I found a place where to get it skimmed at a reasonable price, don't know if the do the valve cutting too. I've seen on the internet some people do the valve grinding them selves.
Well I already cleaned the heads face a bit. And in meanwhile i did a rebuilt on the lift pump. The engine came with an extra fuel bowl too. I haven't seen those before.
Next will be the water pump. The engine came with the powersteering water pump. I would like to keep the 2nd pulley, so if i ever come across a steering pump and cilinder, I might go for that.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Glass bowl filter a good addition to the fuel line. Mine wasn't fitted with one, and it doesn't feel right not to have it.
Any workshop capable of skimming the head will grind the valve seats, press in the new guides and fit the new valves and springs.
There's a kit for rebuilding the water pump. I have to admit that I replaced the pump to save myself a job!
What about the injection pump? I recommend having it and the injectors checked/refurbished by a specialist firm. It's not something that can be done by a layperson. After nearly sixty years, it can be justified!
All these photos are a valuable record of the rebuild.
Best, Adrian.

[peter2]

Hi,

calibrating the temperature gauge to 100°C is simple: Put the sensor end in boiling water. I did it with mine and saw, that the 100 C is the start of the red section.

Peter

[AdrianNPMajor]

My point is that the oil pressure and water temperature gauges are pretty much useless.
Your comment only goes to confirm my point, Peter!
Best, Adrian.

[mathias1]

I ve don the injectors myself. Injection pump has to wait, budget wise.
I have the valve guides out and cleaned the head as much as possible. Only the rust in the water channels will have to stay. Next week it will go to the workshop

[mathias1]

the water pump is almost the same, only a few mm shorter, I hope that won't be a problem.
some pictures:

[mathias1]

Not much to do on the engine so far.
Need to tackle the grooves in the pulley. Seems like a common problem there




This is the inside of the engine breather:

[henk]

Seems you had a bussy weekend.
A speedy sleeve fix that problem with the pulley for me.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Mathias, when you say that you have done the injectors yourself, with respect, you haven't.
You have no way of determining the spray pattern or pressure upon opening. Injection pump and injectors need to be calibrated together by a specialist.
When I read here and elsewhere of people fiddling around with injection pumps and injectors, it makes me cringe. Sorry! Read what Brian has to say on the subject. It's a dangerous subject at worst, and a precise one if done correctly.
Best, Adrian.

[mathias1]

Adrian,

I checked the injectors of ebro engine a while back on opening pressure and leaking in a workshop using a device similar to the one in the workshop manual. I followed the same procedure as in the manual on a device on these ones. Of course a dieselshop will do it better nowadays, but for now I hope it will do the job.

Yesterday I've got the head back from the workshop. it's pressure tested, skimmed, valve seats done, valve guides pressed in and even the new valves got matched with the fresh valve seats. The took 0.2mm off. It looks great. Hope to get some progress in the near future.

[mathias1]

Putting back together


Halfway



Last one on.


It's ready to go back on the block.