Not original starter

[Billy26F5]

That's mid January 62, and it looks like Ford Köln have seen it as that's not the usual location, although on the very same part. If you can look in the usual location it should have the same number although in a different type of punch and vertically. The engine is suitably from a slightly earlier moment, only a day or so in theory although I can't be sure as I haven't found a list for engine numbers nor are Dexta's covered monthly prior to 62 in anything I have access to. From an electrics point of view this means you should have the separate ignition switch as fitted from 09A-315817N to combat the water entry into the combined type used before and on all Power Major's and Super Major's.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

It’s becoming more and more intriguing. I’m sure my Dexta came from Germany. The loader has a label on it with the German manufacturer’s name and the year 1961.

Where can I find the same number you mentioned earlier, but in the usual location?

I bought it with a modern starter installed, so there is no classic starter lever. I’m using a kind of key ignition. I can send a photo tomorrow to show you what it looks like.

[Billy26F5]

The usual location is on the bell housing flange just in front of the timing inspection cover (LH side). Quite keen to see what you have in the dash, many people don't know about details and in the case of the ignition switch might fit a new modern one in place of the light switch, risking water entry. While Dexta's before 09A-315817N are correct with the combined switch in that location if there is risk of water entry it's worth covering the key apperture to prevent that, or if considered worth doing following the Ford instructions which call for the later setup to be fitted. Major's don't have this issue. The loader is an extra, there's no idication of the tractor's age from it, although it does seem likely that it was fitted when it was new. (but not more than that)
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Hi
Some more pictures;
- the number I found is 2GKN1Z72(or similar)
- ignition key
- loader label

[Billy26F5]

That's too far forward, in this pic of Davie you'll see it where I said, that's where to find it. Your number is on all Dexta blocks and I think it's a Perkins code to allow them to know what that block is for or something like that. The parts were cast at Dagenham, assembled into an engine at Peterborough then taken back to Dagenham for final assembly. The journeys were made by Perkins lorries on the now commonplace 'just in time' method, invented for this actual production line.

The dash looks badly wrong, it should look like Davie's one:


Sandy

[123Dexta]

Could you please clarify which numbers I should be looking for? I believe I've already found numbers 1 and 3

[Billy26F5]

No. 1 is the engine number, 1499710 in your case. No. 2 is the Perkins part number for the water inlet, the Ford number is 957E-8275. No.3 is the factory location for the serial number, it should coincide with what you found on the RH side flange, 09B-701365.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Hi Sandy,

Why is there such a big difference between your picture of the fuel system and mine? I’m trying to figure out what might have been added or modified — it’s quite difficult to restore the original Dexta accurately.

Another issue I’m facing is that the engine is hard to start. The battery is new (90Ah) and always fully charged, but it still struggles to crank.
What’s the correct procedure to troubleshoot a hard-start situation?

I also read that behind the metal cover (marked in yellow), there are supposed to be alignment marks. Should I check those?

I’ve attached some photos in case someone can spot anything unusual.

[Billy26F5]

The real difference is the injector pump which changed to a minimec at 09B-710530, the first Super Dexta, engine 1600001. Dexta's had it from engine 1530251. The only other major part to be different is the intake manifold, fitted with a butterfly valve before 09B-710530 and not after. From 09C-913383 further changes were made to the injector pump, marked P4696 instead of P4588, only on Super Dexta's, and all internal, including new injector nozzles. Throttle linkages and fuel pipes are all different in the two kinds of system. The lift pump and fuel filter are unchanged, except that very early tractors had a second completely interchangeable type made by Tecalemit which lost favour on later tractors next to the commoner AC type, with two variations. Your lift pump is wrong, and the governor pipe looks a bit doubtful too. As for timing you remove that cover and open the cover on the bell housing behind the serial number and check that when spill shows in the bell housing the pump marks are lined up too, no. 1 cylinder on compression. I wouldn't expect it to need adjustment, but if it does you might want to check that the pump's mark is accurate, but there's more work in that as you need to do spill timing on the no. 1 pump element. They were never great starters, they are after all indirect injection, which doesn't lend itself to quick starting. Your life will be made easier by using the primer and heater, although I don't know if you still have them, the heater button is certainly missing.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

I’d really appreciate it if you could help me put together a list of the parts I need to order.
From what I understand, I’ll need a new lift pump — do I also need to replace the diaphragm?
I’ve already bought the primer and heater; just need to find some time to install them.

Thanks a lot for your help!

[Billy26F5]

For originality you do need a lift pump, but it should be a genuine AC YE pump, but I suspect functionally your current one will be ok, so not an urgent job (unless its diaphragm is porous in which case it needs replacing, new ones are available). As for the governor diaphragm it only needs replacing if it's in trouble (leaking and allowing the engine to race ot run away completely), a bit of petroleum jelly will help it survive for longer as these are leather and doo become porous if not treated suitably. Unfortunately what you've bought is the MF Thermostart setup, not the Dexta one. The Dexta heater is just a heater screwed into the bottom of the intake manifold, with a separate atomiser screwed into the side of the manifold. There are three atomisers but from 09B-700977 all tractors in Britain were only allowed to use the final one, still available. The first one only lasted till 58 and is considerably different, the second one remained in use in places where the British legislation that brought about the third type didn't apply. Neither of these is available for the same reason. The fuel tap has a primer pump attached to it and is pumped manually when starting.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Is this pump the correct one for my setup?
I couldn’t find the proper governor pipe — do you know the part number or have a screenshot of what it should look like?

Thanks for your help.

[Billy26F5]

That pump will fit but it's not strictly speaking correct, the lever and lower body are different on a real AC YE pump. The governor pipe you want is 957E-993139B, there is for the early pumps. Your governor outer case is 180 degrees out, and there shouldn't be anything between the inner and outer cases. Not a bad idea to look at the diaphragm and put some petroleum jelly on it (but don't overdo it), also worth cleaning the governor air filter.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Does anyone know where I can find this stud? None of the online tractor-parts shops seem to sell it.

[Billy26F5]

You probably won't find it by part number (88358-S). It's 1/4" in diameter, with UNC thread at one end, and UNF thread at the other. Total length 1 1/16". Can't help with the length of each thread, looks like 1/2" of UNF and 3/4" of UNC but you'll need to measure that to be sure.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Is this normal? I bought it just a month ago and it’s already broken. Looks like there’s no metal reinforcement inside at all. Sure, I’ve got a loader up front and steering is never easy, but that doesn’t mean I should be changing the steering wheel every month!

[Billy26F5]

Is it a new one? If so I'm not surprised, repro quality is poor. If it's genuine it should take a fair load, but if you put your weight on it when getting on it can happen, for they weren't expected to take much weight, only torque for steering.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Yes, it was absolutely new.

[123Dexta]

Hi!
I just bought the tires. Does anyone know if I need inner tubes, or are all modern tires tubeless?
Thank you.

[Hair Bear]

When most tyres are advertised, some are marked as TT or tube type. To run tubeless the rim seats need to be absolutely perfect and older rims just aren't designed to take tubless valves. It's not much more compared to the cost of the tyre.

[Billy26F5]

No Fordson ever had tubeless tyres, so a tube will be needed for each tyre. Make sure it's the right size and valve. Replacement valves are available, but you'll need to vulcanise them on. If you decide you need water in them (if you plan on using heavy implements for example) you'll need a water valve, there are two types (and both are still available as spares) but as far as I know only the early type was around when Fordson's were in production. Tubeless tyres can't be removed or replaced with levers, that would render them useless for it's impossible to avoid some limited damage to both the bead and the rim, far too much to allow for a perfect seal. Brian wrote a good document on tyre replacement, definitely worth a read. 6 ply is what I consider a bare minimum, although 4 ply was std on Dexta's. It makes working more easier, for under full load 4 ply tyres will suffer.
Sandy

[Hair Bear]

The tyres shown in your photos are 6 ply, they'll be fine. Just order a pair of tubes to suit a 5.50x16 tyre. They'll come with standard Schrader valves (same as a car) already fitted.
If you're not familiar with fitting tyres it's best to take them to a fitter and have them do it.
Being nosey, are they BKT?

[Billy26F5]

I think I can read that they are, don't know if they're any good but lots of folk seem to have them now. Fitting is not difficult but you need a good breakfast, lots of care and a decent pair of tyre levers (a third is even better). Breaking the bead is the hardest job, lots of effort needed, other than that watch out not to pinch the tube when fitting the new tyres. I would recommend not removing the wheels, it gives you a far more solid base to work on. If the old tubes are ok I see no reason to replace them, we're still using original tubes and they're fine. If you find any crack I would recommend replacement. As for valves Schrader valves come in many shapes and sizes, on Fordson's you'll find TR13 valves on cast front wheels, TR15 valves on pressed front wheels (16" and 19" only) and TR218 (old type) water valves (new type is TR218A) on all larger tyres. TR15 valves won't fit in cast wheels. Water valves can be used if considered necessary on any wheel, they'll need vulcanising onto the tube in place of the valve it came with, just like fixing a puncture. Not applicable to tractors but definitely to Thames lorries and many implements is a very different setup with detachable flange rims, where correct seating is critical.
Sandy

[123Dexta]

Yes, it's BKT tyres.