59 FPM - Smokin' like a chimney!
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- True Blue
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Lazy T
I’m not sure if anyone has gone through this properly yet, your problem sounds plain and simple to be injector or injector pump problems.
Start it up, crack loose and then tighten each injector line one at a time keeping body parts clear of the fuel squirting out. You should hear a noticeable limp in the engine when the line is loose and leaking, this is a good cylinder as it is firing properly under pressure, a vague to no change in the engine is an indicator of problems. Normally a person may find one or two cylinders that are weak, but in your case you may find all four to be crappy. If you have at least one cylinder that really limps when the line is cracked this is good, swap a injectors from one of the weak cylinders to this one and check them again, if the cylinder that was bad is now good and the good cylinder is now bad the problem is the injector, if the good cylinder stays good and the bad cylinder stays bad you most likely have a bad injector pump, assuming that the cylinders have good compression, no burnt valves, etc.
If you find bad injectors don’t waste your time paying someone to rebuild them, Agraline has new nozzles for 18.50 each. You will need the early version with .010 orifices.
No guarantees that I’m rite but this is where I would start looking.
Pat
I’m not sure if anyone has gone through this properly yet, your problem sounds plain and simple to be injector or injector pump problems.
Start it up, crack loose and then tighten each injector line one at a time keeping body parts clear of the fuel squirting out. You should hear a noticeable limp in the engine when the line is loose and leaking, this is a good cylinder as it is firing properly under pressure, a vague to no change in the engine is an indicator of problems. Normally a person may find one or two cylinders that are weak, but in your case you may find all four to be crappy. If you have at least one cylinder that really limps when the line is cracked this is good, swap a injectors from one of the weak cylinders to this one and check them again, if the cylinder that was bad is now good and the good cylinder is now bad the problem is the injector, if the good cylinder stays good and the bad cylinder stays bad you most likely have a bad injector pump, assuming that the cylinders have good compression, no burnt valves, etc.
If you find bad injectors don’t waste your time paying someone to rebuild them, Agraline has new nozzles for 18.50 each. You will need the early version with .010 orifices.
No guarantees that I’m rite but this is where I would start looking.
Pat
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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Thanks Guys for all this good information
Not to take away from LazyTRanch and his problems I had the same problem and found that the governor diaphragm had an 1 inch rip in it. Luck me I just bought a used injector pump on ebay and it came in last week and after checking it out I found the governor diaphragm on that pump was in working condition. Last weekend I had the time to work on her and after replacing the diaphragm it ran great no more BLACK smoke.
This is a 1956 FDM with front end and back end loaders that I bought back in Feb of 2008 but could not get up to my land until spring time. Any ways I'm just happy that its running now and wish it was up and running back in July.
Thanks all for your post and advice..
This is a 1956 FDM with front end and back end loaders that I bought back in Feb of 2008 but could not get up to my land until spring time. Any ways I'm just happy that its running now and wish it was up and running back in July.
Thanks all for your post and advice..
Larry S Saint Cyr
Brockton Mass USA
Brockton Mass USA
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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Re: Thanks Guys for all this good information
That's awesome. I think that was my problem totally, and then I created a problem for myself after the factSaint Cyr wrote:Not to take away from LazyTRanch and his problems I had the same problem and found that the governor diaphragm had an 1 inch rip in it. Luck me I just bought a used injector pump on ebay and it came in last week and after checking it out I found the governor diaphragm on that pump was in working condition. Last weekend I had the time to work on her and after replacing the diaphragm it ran great no more BLACK smoke.

My 1956 FDM
Here what she looks like!

And this is my bad governor diaphragm !


And this is my bad governor diaphragm !

Larry S Saint Cyr
Brockton Mass USA
Brockton Mass USA
Re: Thanks Guys for all this good information
Tim wish I was closer to you to give you a helping hand with your problems.LazyTRanch wrote:That's awesome. I think that was my problem totally, and then I created a problem for myself after the factSaint Cyr wrote:Not to take away from LazyTRanch and his problems I had the same problem and found that the governor diaphragm had an 1 inch rip in it. Luck me I just bought a used injector pump on ebay and it came in last week and after checking it out I found the governor diaphragm on that pump was in working condition. Last weekend I had the time to work on her and after replacing the diaphragm it ran great no more BLACK smoke.
Larry S Saint Cyr
Brockton Mass USA
Brockton Mass USA
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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Just to provide detail on what screws are what (as far as what I did to them):

The red one is the one that I turned, that I think I shouldn't have turned. The other day I turned it all the way out, and then two turns back in got the injectors spraying (all the way out, only the injector for the front cylinder would spray.)
The green one was turned some originally after putting the new diaphraghm in because at certain points, I could work the lever, put my fingers over the two holes and it would still pop out. I adjusted it to a point where I could work lever, and it would hold there while I put two fingers on the holes, and release when I let them go.
I did move it out to the in-laws acreage thinking if I got it going, it would be a good place to run it around. Not to mention, plenty of room to pull start if necessary.

The red one is the one that I turned, that I think I shouldn't have turned. The other day I turned it all the way out, and then two turns back in got the injectors spraying (all the way out, only the injector for the front cylinder would spray.)
The green one was turned some originally after putting the new diaphraghm in because at certain points, I could work the lever, put my fingers over the two holes and it would still pop out. I adjusted it to a point where I could work lever, and it would hold there while I put two fingers on the holes, and release when I let them go.
I did move it out to the in-laws acreage thinking if I got it going, it would be a good place to run it around. Not to mention, plenty of room to pull start if necessary.
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- Site Governance Team & Expert Team
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- Location: Montague Calif. USA
The one in the green circle is the buffer screw. You can adjust it to help stop governor "hunt". Turning it shouldn't have had any effect on the diaphragm vacuum test. The red one is the one I thought you were talking about in your other post. I need to re-read some of your other posts and look at my spare injector pump before I say anything else.
We haven't visited my in-laws in a while. When we do, maybe I'll get a chance to see your tractor in person.
We haven't visited my in-laws in a while. When we do, maybe I'll get a chance to see your tractor in person.
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- Not Quite Blue Yet
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What is "hunt"? Is that perhaps the recovery when the engine "sags"? (all these technical terms, hehe.)JC wrote:The one in the green circle is the buffer screw. You can adjust it to help stop governor "hunt".
You told me where they were and I forgot already, but if you are going to be in the general area and want to see it, I'd be happy to show it off. It'd be nice to meet someone who would actually appreciate the blue beast that I've come to love (with some other emotions thrown in.)JC wrote:We haven't visited my in-laws in a while. When we do, maybe I'll get a chance to see your tractor in person.
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Update! It's alive (again)
Well, this can be good news, and it can be bad news... but, I got it to run again today!
It wasn't like it used to be with the crazy "running at full rev spewing clouds of unburnt fuel" at least.
Here's what I did:
1. Made sure everything in the fuel system was bled up to the back of the injectors.
2. Adjusted the previously red-circled screw while cranking to find out which would give me more smoke (thinking it was more fuel.)
3. Would start using ether, and kept it going with light feathers of ether while "fine tuning" the "red" screw to make it remain running.
The point where it would remain running did still have an occasional "pop", dark smoke, and even an occasional flame from the exhaust elbow (had no exhaust on at the time.) When trying to do anything with heavy load, if it throttle wasn't wide open, it would often die.
Overall, it only ran for about 4-5 minutes total before shutting it down (I've got "that flu", and wasn't eager about being outside breathing smoke.) Perhaps if I ran it longer, it would have got a little more stable, not sure.
So, while it isn't the crazy runaway global warming smoke spewer that it wasn't before, it will definitely not start without ether, and while I imagine there still needs to be some fine-tuning on the fuel delivery/governor, I am sure there are some opportunities still.
Thanks!
Tim
It wasn't like it used to be with the crazy "running at full rev spewing clouds of unburnt fuel" at least.
Here's what I did:
1. Made sure everything in the fuel system was bled up to the back of the injectors.
2. Adjusted the previously red-circled screw while cranking to find out which would give me more smoke (thinking it was more fuel.)
3. Would start using ether, and kept it going with light feathers of ether while "fine tuning" the "red" screw to make it remain running.
The point where it would remain running did still have an occasional "pop", dark smoke, and even an occasional flame from the exhaust elbow (had no exhaust on at the time.) When trying to do anything with heavy load, if it throttle wasn't wide open, it would often die.
Overall, it only ran for about 4-5 minutes total before shutting it down (I've got "that flu", and wasn't eager about being outside breathing smoke.) Perhaps if I ran it longer, it would have got a little more stable, not sure.
So, while it isn't the crazy runaway global warming smoke spewer that it wasn't before, it will definitely not start without ether, and while I imagine there still needs to be some fine-tuning on the fuel delivery/governor, I am sure there are some opportunities still.
Thanks!
Tim
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Well, it now is running again. Have some adjusting to do (nope, won't ever touch the pump again.)
What did I do? I bought a pump from someone in the UK on eBay. Installed it, and away it went.
It's still a cold starter, but it needs the valves adjusted after the grind, and the throttle doesn't seem to be working. But, it starts and runs which is better than what it was doing!
What did I do? I bought a pump from someone in the UK on eBay. Installed it, and away it went.
It's still a cold starter, but it needs the valves adjusted after the grind, and the throttle doesn't seem to be working. But, it starts and runs which is better than what it was doing!
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