Minimec pump proofmeter drive

[AdrianNPMajor]

I have just acquired a working proofmeter - at long last!
I've encountered a problem. The aperture of the drive in the minimec pump is blocked with what I assume is the end of an old core that snapped off.
I've never worked on the minimec (or any injection pump, for that matter), and the repair manual is not very informative in this area, so I would be grateful for advice on how to clear the blockage.
In particular, I'd like to know how the proofmeter drive, held in position by two bolts, picks up its drive from the cam shaft. Is the proofmeter drive removable?
Thanks in advance.
Best, Adrian.

[woodcutter]

Hi Adrian, the two bolts just hold a cap for outer cable threads onto the inner cable square end slides into a little spigot that is on the end of cam of pump , I've had a couple one had the spigot snapped off and the other had the square rounded so it wouldn't turn cable, I managed to fix that with Jb weld. I think the little spigot is all part of the main shaft cheers kev

[oehrick]

Not certain on the Minimec type geometry Adrian but what Kev says makes sense, if you can't get behind the broken off cable end to drive back out (which would be the case if the cavity is in the end of the pump shaft) see if you have a hardened masonry nail that would fit (file a slow taper if too large) and see if you can gently break the cable up or compress two sides enough to loosen it with some gentle hammering, fetch the bits out with a strong magnet.

I've generally silver soldered the ends of bowden cables and I gently hammered the square back into the one I repaired for the Major last year - once cooled - I had to shorten the outer cable by about 3 turns to compensate for the lost length.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Thanks, Kev and Rick.
I just found this post, which has some helpful info and photos.
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... hp?p=45660
Just spoke to Pat at Diesco in Ipswich. Pat worked on these pumps when the they first came out. He said that the rev counter drive is fitted to the end of the cam shaft by means of a taper. Apparently you have to dismantle the pump and apply some heat to get it to shift.
Looks like I'll be trying your method, Rick, followed by Kev's suggestion if the aperture is rounded, assuming I clear the obstruction of course.
I foresee a little of the following taking place!
Hopefully followed by this!
Thanks again.
Best, Adrian.

[oehrick]

OK - looks like we need a big 'ammer smilie Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

Fixed!
I removed the pump, put it in the vice and went at it with a drill.
I used a bit smaller than the width of the broken-off core square, and it worked better than I dared to hope.
The core remnant came spinning out on the spiral of the drill bit.
I expected the square end of the core to be solid and hard. It was actually hollow.
Thanks again for the advice.
Dash looks so much better with a working proofmeter in place of the gaping hole.
Best, Adrian.

[woodcutter]

Well done it's nice to have the clocks working

[AdrianNPMajor]

Thanks Kev. Looks great.
Best, Adrian.

[oehrick]

Nice one

[AdrianNPMajor]

Thanks Rick.
Best, Adrian.