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Author
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Topic: Removing steering drag link
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J. de Bruin
True Blue Posts: 10
From: Zuidwolde (Dr.), The Netherlands
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted March 16, 2004 21:02
   
Help!I want to replace my crankshaft front end seal, en want to remove the front end of the tractor (radiator and front axle). I have disconnected everything I have to, but I have one last hurdle to overtake. I have a little problem disconnecting my steering drag link. I have removed the nut, but somehow there seems to be no movement in the bolt. I have already ruined one (obviously not to good) puller. Is there any other way to remove the drag link? Or is someone having some helpful advice to get the bolt out of the steering arm? I've tried the bolt in the steering arm at the axle as wel as the one on the other side. IP: Logged |
donhwyo
True Blue Posts: 54
From: Jackson Wy. USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted March 16, 2004 21:59
The bolt you see is tappered. The tool you need is called a pickle fork in the US. It is shaped like a fork and is tapered. You can usually get these to come loose if you hold a large hammer against the link and hit the oposite side. It is easier do do this than describe it. The hammer face would be paralel to the bolt, do not hit the threaded end. It is a good idea to leave the nut on incase you hit it by accident.Good Luck Don IP: Logged |
Sandy Mac
True Blue Posts: 170
From: Bonnie Scotland
Registered: Feb 2004
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posted March 17, 2004 00:21
Try a good sharp hit with a decent size hammer on the steering box arm just above the drag link,,maybe not the factory method, but works everytime for me!!!
Sandy.IP: Logged |
neilarmo
True Blue Posts: 26
From: North Yorkshire, UK
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted March 17, 2004 18:18
There are many ways, each person has their favourite, but I agree with all answers so far. I try and find another nut that fits on the bolt ( so as not to damage the castellated nut) and give it a few good taps around the tapered bolt to shock it loose. Then add a little penetrating oil or diesel and give the sacrificial nut a good beating whilst supporting the arm to prevent bouncing. If this doesn't work the next thing could be the gas bottles to carefully apply some heat locally.I tend to use the above as I haven't a pickle fork, but I should get one really.
Neil
IP: Logged |
Brian
Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted March 17, 2004 19:19
I do not think I have ever seen anyone use a "pickle fork". A good hard hit with a three pound hammer on the drop arm next to the tappered joint will free it with no trouble. Don't worry you won't do any damage, It will usually fly apart after the first blow.I have usually done more damage to rubber seals etc. when I have tried to use the special remover and yes, I do have them in my tool kit. Just a thought. Why do you have to remove the front of the tractor to get at the timing cover seal? The pulley and timing cover all come off with no problem after just taking the bottom hose and fan belt off. regards Brian IP: Logged |
donhwyo
True Blue Posts: 54
From: Jackson Wy. USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted March 18, 2004 07:45
Here is a link to a pickle fork. You probably have one Brian just have a diferent name for it.
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT500_pg46.htm Don IP: Logged |
Mike Kuscher
True Blue Posts: 123
From: Worcestershire, England
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted March 18, 2004 17:01
quote:
Originally posted by donhwyo:
Here is a link to a pickle fork. You probably have one Brian just have a diferent name for it.
Don
Yes Don, we have many other names for it in the UK...
Most Common are 'ball joint drift' or 'ball joint splitter'.
There have been many more, over the years, each time that I've been lying under a car and missed with the hammer!  By the way Brian...
171 kilo of steel tube now nicely welded up and my old girl lifted and carried half a ton of newly built ballasted paddock roller on the 3pt for nearly 6 mile - no problem. Regards,
Mike
IP: Logged |
Brian
Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted March 18, 2004 19:39
Mike,Bet that has reduced the front tyre and bearing wear!! regards Brian IP: Logged |
J. de Bruin
True Blue Posts: 10
From: Zuidwolde (Dr.), The Netherlands
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted March 19, 2004 09:46
Lot's of advice! When it comes to technical stuff, my english is (still) not so good! One of the things I understood was banging with the hammer. I did just that, and surprise; the steering arm (at the steering box) came loose. I removed the nut earlier because I could'nt get the drag links loose. Well, the front end is removed.And for Brian;
I'm just following the instructions in the IT&T manuel, it says if you want to replace the seal, you should remove the front end. May not be the easiest method, but because I'm not so technical, I follow these instructions to the letter! Well, here's the next question.
How do I get the retaining cap screw from the pulley without wheeling the tractor of its jacks! IP: Logged |
Brian
Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824
From: United Kingdom
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted March 19, 2004 18:21
That's the problem with the IT manual. I think they are written by people who do not know the tractor.Again with your three pound hammer and a soft punch, sharply hit the flats of the nut to start it unscrewing. Once it is free they can be unscrewed easily. Don't worry about the English! You chaps do really well. I can just about make sense out of written agricultural technical Dutch and German if I know the subject. Whilst I was involved with Claas, the developement staff at the factory would ask me questions in German and I would reply in English. We got by!! but not to the level of you chaps. You even manage to understand my "Norfolk". regards Brian IP: Logged |
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