Author
|
Topic: Best way to flush oil from rear end
|
Miles True Blue Posts: 119 From: Saskatchewan, Canada Registered: Jun 2004
|
posted June 15, 2005 22:30
I need to change the hydraulic oil on my power major. What is the best way to flush the system properly to get out all of the old oil and water? Since it takes 10 gallons of oil, I only want to change once.....and yes I plan to use SAE30 oil.... Thanks IP: Logged |
Mac True Blue Posts: 161 From: Gowen, Michigan. U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2005
|
posted June 16, 2005 00:19
Hi Miles, I just did the same to my super major and found out care is number one with the hydraulic system!! Make sure you have a large container to drain old oil and I had to raise the tractor up,remove drain plug first to drain oil then remove bolts for filter screen and remove clean and replace filter and gasket. I had the top cover off of mine at the time so I cleaned the sump out with diesel and drained out. I have heard of folks installing a mix of diesel and oil and driving the tractor for some time but I do not think I would recommend this procedure!!! I also installed the 30 wt.H.D. oil back into my major. I also found that the rubber O-rings between the hydraulic pump halfs had disintegrated and I had to get the right size o-ring material and make the weird shaped seals for the pump, when all done hydralics working like a new tractor!! I hope this was of some help, just be careful and keep it CLEAN!!!  Best Regards Mac quote: Originally posted by Miles: I need to change the hydraulic oil on my power major. What is the best way to flush the system properly to get out all of the old oil and water? Since it takes 10 gallons of oil, I only want to change once.....and yes I plan to use SAE30 oil.... Thanks
IP: Logged |
Brian Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824 From: United Kingdom Registered: Feb 2002
|
posted June 16, 2005 08:46
As Mac says do not use a mixture of diesel and oil to flush the system. Diesel will affect the rubber "O" rings and seals. The Ford recommended method is to use kerosene and oil about a 50/50 mix and just drive around a short distance to get thinks sloshed around. Kerosene is no problem and is even recommended as an oil dilutent in cold conditions. ------------------ Kind regards Brian IP: Logged |
Miles True Blue Posts: 119 From: Saskatchewan, Canada Registered: Jun 2004
|
posted June 16, 2005 19:58
Thanks gentlemen... I will change my oil this evening. Any tricks or tips to remember when removing/cleaning the screen and magnetic filters?IP: Logged |
Miles True Blue Posts: 119 From: Saskatchewan, Canada Registered: Jun 2004
|
posted June 21, 2005 00:21
Drained the oil, flushed with kerosene, cleaned pickup screen and magnetic filters and filled with new SAE30 oil...Everything now works great except the PTO seal is now leaking (Disadvantage of flush and clean oil) Do I need to drain the oil again so I can pull out the PTO shaft? IP: Logged |
Mac True Blue Posts: 161 From: Gowen, Michigan. U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2005
|
posted June 21, 2005 04:24
Hello Miles, My book says this, First drain rear axle center housing lubricant, then remove cap screws retaining output shaft bearing support,in rear axle center housing and withdraw the output shaft assembly. I hope this is of some help!! My super major also leaked after clean and oil change but everywhere except the p.t.o. shaft.Best Regards Mac quote: Originally posted by Miles: Drained the oil, flushed with kerosene, cleaned pickup screen and magnetic filters and filled with new SAE30 oil...Everything now works great except the PTO seal is now leaking (Disadvantage of flush and clean oil) Do I need to drain the oil again so I can pull out the PTO shaft?
IP: Logged |
Brian Rules All Things Blue Posts: 2824 From: United Kingdom Registered: Feb 2002
|
posted June 21, 2005 09:14
Put her nose down on a slope. (I have used ramps for servicing a car, very strong ones though). The shaft can then be removed without a "Major" oil loss.------------------ Kind regards Brian IP: Logged |