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Author Topic:   Fordson Major Diesel alternator wiring
John G
True Blue

Posts: 36
From: Port Alberni, BC, Canada
Registered: Jan 2005

posted July 14, 2005 18:04     Click Here to See the Profile for John G     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
As we move along from cylinder sleeves to fuel lines and now some wiring.

My Major came without a generator and the regulator was rusted beyond hope. I have a Ford (Motorcraft) alternator and a regulator but need to clarify the connections. I have the I&T wiring diagram but it is for a generator.

Alternator (Alt) has: GND; F (orange); BAT (red); and STA terminals plus one unmarked (GND?). The regulator has F; 2; 3; and 4 (two terminals).

I understand:

1. Alt BAT goes to Ammeter to battery in series.

2. Alt F goes to Regulator F.

3. Alt GND goes to ground.

4. Battery is to be negative ground and this does not affect the starter.

What I need to know is what are the other connections.

1. What does Alt STA go to if anything?

2. Does Regulator have a ground terminal (4?)?

3. Which Regulator terminal goes to the ignition switch (2?)?

What other connections are needed?

Thanks!

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wfillingham
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Posts: 55
From: Cambs, England
Registered: May 2003

posted July 15, 2005 14:42     Click Here to See the Profile for wfillingham     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
as if by luck.. i happened to wire up the alternator to my Dexta last week..

you will need to check what sort of alternator, whether it is external, or built in regulator. most modern alternators have built in. In which case, then the old regulator for the generator needs to be dumped. there are two options,

1. is to remove the old regulator and launch it into the bin, then remove some of the wiring and replace.

2. some classic car people like to have the old regulator still visible, so they take the insides out, and solder conencting wires. don't ask me which terminals, though there is stuff on the web that describes this...

3.also... if you want to be totally origional... you can buy alternators that look like old fashioned dynamo's... thoguh they are expensive.

4. How I wired in my alternator was as follows: note, it is a Lucas spade type connector block, two large spades, and one smaller. I ripped out all the wiring and threw it in the bin. then, fitted new heavy duty cable between the large terminals, and the top of the solonoid. the small terminal (IND) gets connected to the indicator lamp, then straight to the ignition switch, which hence, means that when the ignition is on, there is +12v on one side of the lamp, and 0v on the alternator side. When you start up, the voltage then goes to +12v on the alternator side, and the lamp goes out... but note, it is the +12v for a start that actually is needed to make the alternator work for a start, otherwise, if you leave the IND conenction disconnected, the alternator will never charge.....

there are many other conenctions on my alternator, one that is for an electronic tacho, and one that should go to the battery to monitor voltage drop, but if you wiring is good, you don't have to use that, but it might be a good idea to wire it up anyway, though I did'nt.


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wfillingham
True Blue

Posts: 55
From: Cambs, England
Registered: May 2003

posted July 15, 2005 14:46     Click Here to See the Profile for wfillingham     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
maybe if you are doubt about using an alternator with external regulator, it might be best to swap it for one that has an internal regulator. My thinking behind the one I chose it is the common Lucas type used on all british cars during say 1980's and exchange recon unit is only £25

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John G
True Blue

Posts: 36
From: Port Alberni, BC, Canada
Registered: Jan 2005

posted July 15, 2005 16:15     Click Here to See the Profile for John G     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the response. The alternator does not have an internal regulator.
quote:
Originally posted by wfillingham:
as if by luck.. i happened to wire up the alternator to my Dexta last week..

you will need to check what sort of alternator, whether it is external, or built in regulator. most modern alternators have built in. In which case, then the old regulator for the generator needs to be dumped. there are two options,

1. is to remove the old regulator and launch it into the bin, then remove some of the wiring and replace.

2. some classic car people like to have the old regulator still visible, so they take the insides out, and solder conencting wires. don't ask me which terminals, though there is stuff on the web that describes this...

3.also... if you want to be totally origional... you can buy alternators that look like old fashioned dynamo's... thoguh they are expensive.

4. How I wired in my alternator was as follows: note, it is a Lucas spade type connector block, two large spades, and one smaller. I ripped out all the wiring and threw it in the bin. then, fitted new heavy duty cable between the large terminals, and the top of the solonoid. the small terminal (IND) gets connected to the indicator lamp, then straight to the ignition switch, which hence, means that when the ignition is on, there is +12v on one side of the lamp, and 0v on the alternator side. When you start up, the voltage then goes to +12v on the alternator side, and the lamp goes out... but note, it is the +12v for a start that actually is needed to make the alternator work for a start, otherwise, if you leave the IND conenction disconnected, the alternator will never charge.....

there are many other conenctions on my alternator, one that is for an electronic tacho, and one that should go to the battery to monitor voltage drop, but if you wiring is good, you don't have to use that, but it might be a good idea to wire it up anyway, though I did'nt.



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