Putting the tractors away for the winter
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- True Blue
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Putting the tractors away for the winter
Just putting things away for the winter and realized I’ve never had the four running units all together at the same time. Nor did I realize how much painting and body work I have to do this winter!
From right to left,The Selene power Major, the Super Major, The County Super Four, and the one that got me hooked….my Dads 58 Major.
Pat
From right to left,The Selene power Major, the Super Major, The County Super Four, and the one that got me hooked….my Dads 58 Major.
Pat
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- True Blue
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Lovely photo. I like the look of you selene axled major the best.
I too, over the last month have started to prepare some of our tractors for the onset of winter, made sure their is plenty of antifreeze in them and that the batteries are well topped up.
Don't want to wake up one morning now I have put that 6 cylinder engine in my major and find a big crack down the side of block
I too, over the last month have started to prepare some of our tractors for the onset of winter, made sure their is plenty of antifreeze in them and that the batteries are well topped up.
Don't want to wake up one morning now I have put that 6 cylinder engine in my major and find a big crack down the side of block
Putting the tractors away for the winter
JohnnyBoy has a great idea. The same pose with all of them painted would be wonderful. Something to look forward to!
Never give up!
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- True Blue
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Thanks guys, I doubt that I’ll get them all painted this winter but I did just get new fenders for the County and I have 99% of the parts needed to finish up it and the Selene.
Sorry Ben, I do have a 8’ dozer blade that would look really neat on the front of the County but I have a nice warm truck with a snow plow on it.
The Selene will look even better with bigger tires on the front! When I got the County I was afraid I would lose interest in the Selene but I converted it over to live PTO and other than a rather uncomfortable placement of the clutch pedal the girl has really grown on me. She probably got more hours on her this summer than the other three combined. With the power steering, 4X4, live PTO and all fresh running gear it’s as handy as any new modern midsize tractor. The only drawback is that I haven’t got auxiliary hydraulic valves on it yet…. all in good time.
Pat
Sorry Ben, I do have a 8’ dozer blade that would look really neat on the front of the County but I have a nice warm truck with a snow plow on it.
The Selene will look even better with bigger tires on the front! When I got the County I was afraid I would lose interest in the Selene but I converted it over to live PTO and other than a rather uncomfortable placement of the clutch pedal the girl has really grown on me. She probably got more hours on her this summer than the other three combined. With the power steering, 4X4, live PTO and all fresh running gear it’s as handy as any new modern midsize tractor. The only drawback is that I haven’t got auxiliary hydraulic valves on it yet…. all in good time.
Pat
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- True Blue
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I would not do that because the oil prevents the water from evaporating when it sinks down to the bottom beneath the oil. If the oil is drained the water evaporates and get condensed on all surfaces the whole time and everything gets corroded much more.Supermanuel wrote:I would drain the rear axle and take the oil in a tight drum. You can drain in the spring all condensed water from the rear axle and fill the rear axle with the oil again.
Leave the oil in place and just drain the small amount of water in the spring, that has separated from the oil during the winter.
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- True Blue
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But surely if you drain the oil out, you would leave the bung out.Grani wrote:I would not do that because the oil prevents the water from evaporating when it sinks down to the bottom beneath the oil. If the oil is drained the water evaporates and get condensed on all surfaces the whole time and everything gets corroded much more.Supermanuel wrote:I would drain the rear axle and take the oil in a tight drum. You can drain in the spring all condensed water from the rear axle and fill the rear axle with the oil again.
Leave the oil in place and just drain the small amount of water in the spring, that has separated from the oil during the winter.
Fordson Dexta, Barn Door Technology at it's best.
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- True Blue
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- True Blue
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- True Blue
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- True Blue
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What the heck is a Valtra!!!
And while we are on the subject of tractors that we never see in the US, at our last pumpkin chuck I couldn’t help but to take a picture of one of our ammo boxes. My Uncle has had the box lying around in his shop for probably twenty years from some parts they had got for the 4X4 Lamborghini they had.
As far as condensation in the oil goes, yes it is a big issue for us. There are days in the spring when it warms up fast and everything in the barn looks like your glass of ice water on a hot and humid day. Everything from head to toe is solid condensation and I’m sure it looks about the same on the inside. The tractors upstairs don’t get it as bad not being on concrete, but still that chunk of cast iron takes a day or two to get up to the ambient air temp.
And I’m not sure what to do about it. I can loosen the drain plug and drain out the water but with the ribs in the front of housing it will be impossible to get it all, not to mention I don’t think it will get enough “settle” time as this time of the year I am starting to get the equipment out and do things.
I have even considered installing a couple of big exhaust fans to try to get the tractors up to the ambient air temp on the bad days, or maybe just one smaller fan and let it run continuously through the spring. I have even thought about running the oil through a heat exchanger to the engine coolant to get the hyd oil up to 180 and “burn” the moisture out, but I am so anal about “keeping it stock” that it would have to be mostly hidden and at the least a nice clean install. Maybe a loop of copper tubing inside the rear housing and coolant lines run behind the frame rails up to the motor. Or maybe I should stop obsessing and just dump the oil every spring, replace with new, let the old oil settle for a year, and then each spring rotate it.
Pat
And while we are on the subject of tractors that we never see in the US, at our last pumpkin chuck I couldn’t help but to take a picture of one of our ammo boxes. My Uncle has had the box lying around in his shop for probably twenty years from some parts they had got for the 4X4 Lamborghini they had.
As far as condensation in the oil goes, yes it is a big issue for us. There are days in the spring when it warms up fast and everything in the barn looks like your glass of ice water on a hot and humid day. Everything from head to toe is solid condensation and I’m sure it looks about the same on the inside. The tractors upstairs don’t get it as bad not being on concrete, but still that chunk of cast iron takes a day or two to get up to the ambient air temp.
And I’m not sure what to do about it. I can loosen the drain plug and drain out the water but with the ribs in the front of housing it will be impossible to get it all, not to mention I don’t think it will get enough “settle” time as this time of the year I am starting to get the equipment out and do things.
I have even considered installing a couple of big exhaust fans to try to get the tractors up to the ambient air temp on the bad days, or maybe just one smaller fan and let it run continuously through the spring. I have even thought about running the oil through a heat exchanger to the engine coolant to get the hyd oil up to 180 and “burn” the moisture out, but I am so anal about “keeping it stock” that it would have to be mostly hidden and at the least a nice clean install. Maybe a loop of copper tubing inside the rear housing and coolant lines run behind the frame rails up to the motor. Or maybe I should stop obsessing and just dump the oil every spring, replace with new, let the old oil settle for a year, and then each spring rotate it.
Pat
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- True Blue
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Valtra's are a real treat. Up there with the best,
I had'nt realised condensation was such a problem for you Guy's . Seen lot's of tractors over in the US ,many just left outside and they allways seem to stay in fair condition. Would just leaving them outside under a pole barn be ok. Jim
I had'nt realised condensation was such a problem for you Guy's . Seen lot's of tractors over in the US ,many just left outside and they allways seem to stay in fair condition. Would just leaving them outside under a pole barn be ok. Jim
Fordson Dexta, Barn Door Technology at it's best.
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- True Blue
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Pat, Valtra tractors are made in Finland and Brazil.The end result of combining Valmet/VolvoBM/Bolinders and Munktells, with their history dating back to 1832. There No1 sellers in Nordic countries and No2 in South America. Used from the Arctic to Antarctica and just about everywhere else in between. They use Sisu engines , noted for fuel efficiency, reliability( should be good for 20000+ hrs)and torque.TSG. Also used for deere recovery.[/img]
Last edited by The Swanndri Guy on Sun Nov 14, 2010 12:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- True Blue
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- True Blue
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- True Blue
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If I recommend draining, it depends on facts what I didn't list.
Here we have to start with the question "Why" The whole problem starts from the quantity of condensed water. The quantity depends on the big area of free surfaces in rear axle. The whole upper part above oil level and axle tubes. Thats the difference and reason for high water content in Fordson.
Todays oils have emulgators to keep the water in oil and giving the creamy color to oil. The oils from Fordson era didn't mix with water. You could carefully drain the water on bottom, as it was not mixed with the oil. I have made it then and it was several liters water running out from the rear axle.
Lets look at the difference to leave the oil or drain it.
If you leave the oil in rear axle, I consider it as useless due to the high water content next year. The water condensation is subject to parts above oil level only. For these parts there is no difference. With no oil it is possible to drain the water before use and adding of oil again.
Maybe the water could be boiled out from oil, but at least a 200 liter drum is needed for 40 liters of oil.
Here we have to start with the question "Why" The whole problem starts from the quantity of condensed water. The quantity depends on the big area of free surfaces in rear axle. The whole upper part above oil level and axle tubes. Thats the difference and reason for high water content in Fordson.
Todays oils have emulgators to keep the water in oil and giving the creamy color to oil. The oils from Fordson era didn't mix with water. You could carefully drain the water on bottom, as it was not mixed with the oil. I have made it then and it was several liters water running out from the rear axle.
Lets look at the difference to leave the oil or drain it.
If you leave the oil in rear axle, I consider it as useless due to the high water content next year. The water condensation is subject to parts above oil level only. For these parts there is no difference. With no oil it is possible to drain the water before use and adding of oil again.
Maybe the water could be boiled out from oil, but at least a 200 liter drum is needed for 40 liters of oil.
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