Injectors need a service?
Injectors need a service?
As some of you know, ive just re-built my majors engine, runs really well, but seems to chuck out a fair bit of white smoke when accelerating or revving, and especially starting. It doesnt smoke when at a constant speed, and theres no black smoke.
Just another thing, the excess fuel button doesnt seem to do anything, never has done since ive owned it, which way is excess?
Just another thing, the excess fuel button doesnt seem to do anything, never has done since ive owned it, which way is excess?
ntil you have put at least 100 hours of work on your tractor ther is no need to worry. White smoke can also be a sign of a leaking head gasket so keep an eye on the water level, otherwise put her to work.
Your button should press in and hold. If not you may have stuck/faulty parts. It could also be just gunge. Take out the four screws in the rear housing and have a look.
Your button should press in and hold. If not you may have stuck/faulty parts. It could also be just gunge. Take out the four screws in the rear housing and have a look.
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Brian
Brian
ah i see, its only run for about 6 hours since the re-build, water level is good, no milky oil and it doesnt overheat so im confident. also like i said it doesnt smoke at all when its running at a constant rpm.
better give it some real hard work then, might get my brother-in-law to put it on the roller mill
better give it some real hard work then, might get my brother-in-law to put it on the roller mill
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Nick,
Would this be any help?

As Brian says just open it with the four screws and you can remove al parts without any risk.
When pressing the cold start button you move the inner part to the side, so the fuel rod can go much further than normal. When you start the vacuum will pull the rod to back the front and the fuel button will jump back and prevents the fuel rod to go to the extra fuel setting.
Would this be any help?
As Brian says just open it with the four screws and you can remove al parts without any risk.
When pressing the cold start button you move the inner part to the side, so the fuel rod can go much further than normal. When you start the vacuum will pull the rod to back the front and the fuel button will jump back and prevents the fuel rod to go to the extra fuel setting.
Kind regards, Henk
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
ok. i have just taken this thing apart, it looks ok inside, the spring is still there etc, however the one in henks picture has a little slim button on the outside left, mine has a large button and the right hand fork that lets more fuel in spins around and doesnt seem to be attached to anything.
the only thing i can think it is, is the small shaft that slides through the larger shaft is stuck towards the back (right in henks picture) because this doesnt seem to move at all back and forwards
i have just looked at agrilines excess fuel device on the website, it looks like there is a little button inside a bigger button, is this the part thats supposed to move? cos if it is, my one is seized
the only thing i can think it is, is the small shaft that slides through the larger shaft is stuck towards the back (right in henks picture) because this doesnt seem to move at all back and forwards
i have just looked at agrilines excess fuel device on the website, it looks like there is a little button inside a bigger button, is this the part thats supposed to move? cos if it is, my one is seized
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Nick,
The button left was missing. There’s one on it now.
The wider fork MUST be attached to the left bigger shaft to were the stop cable is attached. This is the only way to stop the engine.
The other one has to be attached to the smaller shaft and it goes through the bigger on. With the button you move that small shaft to the side letting the fuel rod go into extra fuel. When the engine runs the fuel rod will go forward letting that fork go back because of the spring pressure.
The button left was missing. There’s one on it now.
The wider fork MUST be attached to the left bigger shaft to were the stop cable is attached. This is the only way to stop the engine.
The other one has to be attached to the smaller shaft and it goes through the bigger on. With the button you move that small shaft to the side letting the fuel rod go into extra fuel. When the engine runs the fuel rod will go forward letting that fork go back because of the spring pressure.
Kind regards, Henk
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
Fordson New Major February 1957 Mark I
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The smoke is black or blue or white. Depending on colour various reason may cause it.
Black means more fuel than air to burn it. Either the injected fuel quantities hv been increased or lack of air. (Air filter!)
Blue is oil or unburned fuel. Oil may pass through worn piston rings, valve guides or come through breather from crankcase if the cylinders or piston rings are worn. Unburned fuel comes to exhaust due to longer idling or low load. The temperature is too low for pistons and cylinder head to burn all fuel injected. Alternatively due to faulty injector. A worn engine can run with oil mist from crankcase, especially with the older breather. Cannot be stopped the normal way.
White smoke is either water (head gasket?) or pump is out of timing. Not advance enough.
Black means more fuel than air to burn it. Either the injected fuel quantities hv been increased or lack of air. (Air filter!)
Blue is oil or unburned fuel. Oil may pass through worn piston rings, valve guides or come through breather from crankcase if the cylinders or piston rings are worn. Unburned fuel comes to exhaust due to longer idling or low load. The temperature is too low for pistons and cylinder head to burn all fuel injected. Alternatively due to faulty injector. A worn engine can run with oil mist from crankcase, especially with the older breather. Cannot be stopped the normal way.
White smoke is either water (head gasket?) or pump is out of timing. Not advance enough.
New Performance Super Major Manuel 08D970466
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I believe I have a head gasket problem. If the water bubbles any in rad. while still cool, right after starting, does this mean "no question a head gasket is needed"? Thanks.[/quote]Gman wrote:White smoke is either water (head gasket?) or pump is out of timing. Not advance enough.
Other alternatives are crack in cylinder liner or in block. Hoping it is head gasket. Bigger leak throws the cooland out, because the pressure cannot pass thermostate and pushes the coolant through lower hose to radiator and this way out.
If the coolants has been boiling, the head gasket can still be saved if the head bolts are torqued to correct values as soon as the coolant has reached correct temperature. (180 F) That because the gasket has been slightly flattened. Normally the bolts can be turned abt. 1/8 turn to reach 12,5 kpm. Later it is not possible to save the gasket this way.
New Performance Super Major Manuel 08D970466
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